To start at the beginning -- the water pump went out. Of course, to do the water pump you must remove the timing belt. Short on funds as it is, I skipped out on doing the full job. The belts looked great anyways.
Put it all back together and it started up perfect. Putting the rest of the car back together, alternator wire touched and killed my battery and a fuse. So fixed that.
Also did the spark plugs & wires but the parts store gave me the wrong firing order. Tried to start it and it backfired. Called around, checked online, finally got the right firing order and now it still wont start.
Where to start? Was told it could have jumped time? Bent a valve? Checked the timing and seem to have gotten it right.
Will pick up a compression tester tomorrow to check the valves. Other than that is there anything else I can check?
Is there a diagram for the timing marks so I can be 100% sure that those are right?

 

are you v6, 4 cylinders, vtec, no vtec. how many miles, are you the first owner, we need more info so we can give you the right diagram

 

4 Cyl 2.2 non vtec, had since Feb. 3rd owner. Car came from Chicago area and has some rust.
Car reads 134k but has not moved since I owned it. Trip od. does not move, either.
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/1/a/92851755.gif
This is what I am going off now, I was told counterclockwise so it was basically opposite that when I tried to fire it up.
As for the timing marks, without the bottom cover on, is there a way to line that one up without using the piece that sticks out on it?

 

honestly no mater how low on funds i would have been on i would have got that timing belt. how do you know its been change? what if it ends up ripping? youll have piston and/or valve damage. ill rather pay for a timing belt to prevent a 600$ dollar engine that you would have to end up buying if it does go out. and thats not your firing order either http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-fo-7314.htm thats your firing order. it is going to be hard to get the bottom on time unless you take the cover from the wheel well off to where you can see where the timing mark on the pulley and try to line it up as much as possible where the needle broke on the timing cover

 

What you've pulled up says for a 94, I have a 95.
Since everything is still apart I'm slapping new belts on, its been recommended more times than not. They are cheaper than I though. Still doesn't help my problem though. It feels like it is just turning over but not trying to fire. I've checked for fire to all plugs and that's fine. Also getting fuel. I've yet to do a compression check. Could it be a bad ECU/ECM?

 

ss

 

Bad ECU is very unlikely especially when its running fine before you did the job. But you never know. Compression check is needed if spark and fuel's good.

 

I'm having same problems after timing belt change, with my 94 accord lx 2.2 non-vtec

things ive done so far:

compression check: all cylinders were around 120-150
checked for spark, all wires sparked (all new plugs wires cap rotor)
changed ecu
checked fuel pressure all is good

 

had car on a scanner and no codes
was wondering what omhs the coil should be on a multimeter, if i did it right it showed 0.001 but then again idk what terminals to touch

 

if you have got fire and fuel forget the ECU.The only thing missing is the compression or timing.

 

with a multimeter:
Check coil ohm readings (key off).
Primary terminals : (A & B) 0.30 to 0.50 ohms.
Secondary terminals : (A or + primary) to secondary (tip) 15 k ohms to 25 k ohms

 

Weak spark (fouled plugs) or dead (faulty) coil can cause a NO start.
Plugs may be gapped wrong too.

 

plugs are gapped right (.40) im going to get a new coil monday and see how that goes. thanks pizzapop

 

And timing could also be the firing order.

 

Check these out:
1-got fuel ?
2-fuel pump
3-fuel pressure regulator
4-clogged fuel filter
5-evap purge bypass solenoid
6-evap cannister solenoid
7-EGR
8-bad spark plug(s)