So I swapped in a d15b1 into my 91 CRX HF. The car had a d15b7 from a 95 Del Sol S in it. I used the wiring harness and intake from the b7 with all new gaskets. The car starts and runs great and I have checked the cylinder pressure and the head gasket is fine.

THE PROBLEM:
-The car at idle does not smoke, yet when I give it throttle, it puffs white smoke.
-I am loosing a small amount of coolant.
-The throttle body pops at hard acceleration and I do get some backfire which if i'm correct tells me the timing is probably a little off.
- I have the idle drop problem associated with the idle Air Control Valve (IACV) or the FITV, not really sure.

Does anybody have a clue what could possibly be causing this white smoke, as stated above the head gasket is fine.

I'm really in a pinch and would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks so much in advance.

 

What were the compression test numbers, also the compression test isn't always a perfect tell all test. You should leak-down test it and it will pin point your problem.

It is most likely one of these things...

- Blown Head Gasket
- Cracked Head
- Cracked sleeve
- Intake gasket magically leaking into intake runner

Unless your timing is just that far off, be it mechanical or ignition, and you are extremely lean. This still doesn't explain coolant loss...

 

or the white smoke, is the oil milky colored at all?

 

You don't tune engines very much do you??? Small amounts of white smoke is completely possible from fueling/timing.

 

i suppose so...your right, im just attuned to knowing that white usually equals coolant. i would leak-down test it anyway

 

-The coolant is clean with no oil and the oil has no coolant in it.
-At operating temp, the chambers read at 60psi across the board. I don't know how accurate my gauge is, but i do know that the chambers were consistent.
-Again thanks a lot!

 

If it was a cracked head gasket, head or sleeve, wouldn't there be some liquid mixture? All fluids are staying where they belong.

 

You have MAJOR problems of you did the test correct and you got 60 psi across the board. Check your mechanical timing.

 

Cold, the pressure test was 120 +/- 5 across the board. What should it be at? Ill check my mechanical timing in the morning. If its off, what do i need to do? Just reset to TDC and fix the timing belt?

If its so far off, would it still run so good? I mean It idles perfectly.

 

If your cylinders were 120 across the board it's probably fine. You said 60 before... When you pulled the spark plugs how did they read? The back-firing is what you should be focusing on. How does your cap and rotor look?

Is your car OBD-0 or OBD-1? What ECU and distributor are you using?

 

I checked the pressure while the motor was cold and it came up 120, at operating temp they came up 60...Spark plugs looked fine. they werent too clean nor too dirty, no build up or anything. The cap and rotor are visually in good shape. Ill have to get the ECU info for your after work. The guy before me did a swap so im not sure.
I really appreciate all your help!

 

Block test kit.
Checks for traces of exhaust gases in your radiator fluids.

 

Okay, sorry for the delay. The ECU is a PM8 (obd0) and the distributor is a TD18U.