Replacing bypass hose
My bypass hose had a hole in it so I replaced with just a generic hose but it has a pretty decent crease on it. So I bought an OEM Gates from Kragen and I want to avoid any issues with a bent hose. Would I need to flush the system or just let coolant run off when I remove the hose?
So I replaced the hose today and stupid thing was still too long and probably should have cut (small crease but didn't want to deal removing it again because it was a PITA). Anyway, now that I replaced I couldn't get my radiator fans to turn on, even after driving for about 15 minutes (heater valve open). I know they work because I turned on the A/C just to check. The temperature stays at normal operating temp. So can it be that the engine is just not getting hot enough?
So I replaced the hose today and stupid thing was still too long and probably should have cut (small crease but didn't want to deal removing it again because it was a PITA). Anyway, now that I replaced I couldn't get my radiator fans to turn on, even after driving for about 15 minutes (heater valve open). I know they work because I turned on the A/C just to check. The temperature stays at normal operating temp. So can it be that the engine is just not getting hot enough?
Last edited by Psycho719; Oct 29, 2011 at 09:55 AM.
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Drain the coolant from the radiator freeze plug before you begin removing the bypass hose. After replacement, refill with coolant and bleed out the air from the system following usual guidelines.
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I think you might have air in the cooling system or the bypass hose is kinked and not allowing coolant to pass through. That hose has to be cut to exact length in order to work.
Did you unplug the fan switch while changing the hose out and maybe forget to plug it back in? If not, did you bleed the coolant system after refilling it?
Did you unplug the fan switch while changing the hose out and maybe forget to plug it back in? If not, did you bleed the coolant system after refilling it?
I think you might have air in the cooling system or the bypass hose is kinked and not allowing coolant to pass through. That hose has to be cut to exact length in order to work.
Did you unplug the fan switch while changing the hose out and maybe forget to plug it back in? If not, did you bleed the coolant system after refilling it?
Did you unplug the fan switch while changing the hose out and maybe forget to plug it back in? If not, did you bleed the coolant system after refilling it?
I can't find the bleed valve, and can't find it on my Haynes manual either. Does an 2001 GSR even have one?
If engine temp. is staying "normal" rad fan will not turn on, unplug the ECT switch and jump it to confirm rad fan and circuit is working.
I think Honda deleted the bleeder valve on later model B engines, mine is on the thermostat housing, [94LS] but as mentioned, just remove the rad cap, turn heat on full and start the engine, let engine warm up until thermostat opens, coolant will flow and any air in system will "bubble" out the rad cap opening, top off rad and replace cap that car for a spin then before turning engine off, check "overflow" tank and top off to "HOT" level. 94
I think Honda deleted the bleeder valve on later model B engines, mine is on the thermostat housing, [94LS] but as mentioned, just remove the rad cap, turn heat on full and start the engine, let engine warm up until thermostat opens, coolant will flow and any air in system will "bubble" out the rad cap opening, top off rad and replace cap that car for a spin then before turning engine off, check "overflow" tank and top off to "HOT" level. 94
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So I drove the car around and when I got home I still left it on and I finally heard the fans click in twice. Now in order for the cooling system to be working properly doesn't the lower rad hose need to feel full? Because it doesn't feel like anything is in there when i squeezed it.
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When did you squeeze it? With the engine on or off?
To be honest, if your fans clicked on twice, temp gauge is where it should be, then your cooling system should be fine. Were both upper and lower hoses hot after you went for your drive?
To be honest, if your fans clicked on twice, temp gauge is where it should be, then your cooling system should be fine. Were both upper and lower hoses hot after you went for your drive?
So I drove the car around and when I got home I still left it on and I finally heard the fans click in twice. Now in order for the cooling system to be working properly doesn't the lower rad hose need to feel full? Because it doesn't feel like anything is in there when i squeezed it.
Do you get good and consistent heat from the heating system?
If so there is nothing wrong with the cooling system, it is working properly.
When exactly are you checking the lower hose???
Engine cold and not running?
Engine just started?
Engine running and "hot", [running temp.]?
Engine "hot" but not running?
Engine cooling down and not running?
What temp. was the hose, cold, warm or hot?
If on the other hand engine temp. gauge is erratic, overheating is an issue and the heat is inconsistent, you have air in the system, and yes the lower hose must be full for system to work properly.
By your discription it sounds like the system is working. 94
Does engine temp. stay "steady", rise from cold as engine warms up until it reaches, "normal" on the temp. gauge and then not vary from that point, with the rad fan(s) turning on to keep the engine temp at "normal"?
Yup the temp rises steadily and once it's at normal operating temp is stays there and doesn't flucuate.
Do you get good and consistent heat from the heating system?
Yes, again and stays nice and toasty.
If so there is nothing wrong with the cooling system, it is working properly.
When exactly are you checking the lower hose???
I checked it after I turned off the engine.
Engine cold and not running?
It was already at normal operating temp
Engine just started?
I had it at idle, then I drove the car for about 15 minutes. Thats when I got home and let it sit for another minute and that's when I finally heard the fans come on. It may have been that they activated while driving, but I didn't hear it.
Engine running and "hot", [running temp.]?
I did check it running and the lower hose itself was hot.
Engine "hot" but not running?
Engine cooling down and not running?
What temp. was the hose, cold, warm or hot?
It was hot
If on the other hand engine temp. gauge is erratic, overheating is an issue and the heat is inconsistent, you have air in the system, and yes the lower hose must be full for system to work properly.
By your discription it sounds like the system is working. 94
Yup the temp rises steadily and once it's at normal operating temp is stays there and doesn't flucuate.
Do you get good and consistent heat from the heating system?
Yes, again and stays nice and toasty.
If so there is nothing wrong with the cooling system, it is working properly.
When exactly are you checking the lower hose???
I checked it after I turned off the engine.
Engine cold and not running?
It was already at normal operating temp
Engine just started?
I had it at idle, then I drove the car for about 15 minutes. Thats when I got home and let it sit for another minute and that's when I finally heard the fans come on. It may have been that they activated while driving, but I didn't hear it.
Engine running and "hot", [running temp.]?
I did check it running and the lower hose itself was hot.
Engine "hot" but not running?
Engine cooling down and not running?
What temp. was the hose, cold, warm or hot?
It was hot
If on the other hand engine temp. gauge is erratic, overheating is an issue and the heat is inconsistent, you have air in the system, and yes the lower hose must be full for system to work properly.
By your discription it sounds like the system is working. 94
Thanks again everyone for the help. I get paranoid over the smallest of details. And this bent hose is bugging me so much, but I'll probably wait a bit to have it changed.
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