Hello, I recently picked up this 1990 si hatch with 135,000mi for around a grand as a winter/economy car. The seller claimed he was selling due to a child on the way and a child seat in a hatch wasnt for him.Im newer to imports but have had a couple DA integras. It seemed like a decent price for a decent car for sure, but I figured it had a catch, one I didnt find on the test drive since it takes about 30 minutes for it to happen. Anyways my problem is:

If the car is cold it will start right up and be fine, idle fine etc. but when Ive been driving it a half hour or so it will just stall and die out and wont restart until its been sitting for a while. Both times its happened on me this weekend was after driving 55+ for a good distance then putting the trans in Neutral to coast into my turn. and then all the lights on the dash come on and it stalls out. Both times Ive been close enough to home for it to not be a big deal.

What could this be on this car? d16a6/5-speed

On my Integra's I had main relay issues on both of them, but it never caused the car to die/stall out...only have a hard time starting.


Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jeff

 

do you get a check engine light when it quits?

any codes showing on the ECU?

 

Yes I do, I just have to have the right machine to scan this thing haha. If I can make it to a shop (physically) Ill see what it says. I didnt know if there was a common honda problem with these symptoms or not.

 

Ive never pulled those blinking style codes. but I came up with
1- Oxygen sensor
6- ECT sensor
10- CMP sensor
17- VSS sensor

 

you don't need to scan anything - just pull back the carpet on the passenger side footwell and look at the top of the ECU - if it has a code, the red LED will be flashing - just count the number of times it flashes between pauses and that will be the code - could have more than one - the check engine light will go off every time you shut off the ignition and will not come back on until the ECU senses a problem (except for the 2 seconds it comes on when you turn the ignition 'on'), however, the codes remain in the ECU and it will flash until you physically reset the ECU

 

yeah I found a nice pdf for the codes. (http://www.iequus.com/Content/Suppor..._E_14JAN03.pdf)

My stepdad who is a mechanic (though mostly american cars) says maybe that cam position code is the cause and distributor would need replaced.

 

code 10 is Intake Air Temperature sensor - none of those codes will make it just shut off - i suspect that the ECU is trying to find a solution and is just throwing some random codes - reset the ECU by pulling the hazard fuse in the underhood fuse box for 10 seconds - replace the fuse and start it up - when the check engine light comes on, shut it off and then check the code - probably going to be code 1 for the O2 sensor - is your speedometer working? if not, that would be why you have a code 17

 

Alright thanks, Ill do that now. no the speedometer doesnt work so that explains that. Ill check back in with whichever codes pop up after reset.

 

these are the codes for your car - the OBD0 D-series ECU (i assume you have a PM6) does not have long and short flashes, just short

 

After only letting it idle for about 50 seconds, just the 10 came back.

 

 

Alright thanks. Though the codes are definitely a start. The previous owner has so many 'custom ran' wires in that engine bay I'm gonna have to go back over it and see if I can find anything weird. This is gonna be a nightmare and maybe over my head between the previous owners shabby wiring and any real sensor/part problems the car may have without it.

 

Someone may be able to help me out here with a pic, or a better discription of the wires in question.

I know the 2 wires that "feed" the coil on the dizzy are a common weakness on these older cars. I have seen them be good enough to fire the car, but have enough wear or corrosion to eventually fail. While I think it usually results in an intermitant rough condition, I suppose it could also result in complete failure as well.

The wires in question are the 2 that you see as soon as you pull your dist. cap off. Sorry, Im at work, away from my Rex, or I would snap a pic for you.