2000 Gsr piston ring problems
hey HT
i have a 2000 gsr with 103,000 miles on it, long story short i lose about a quart of oil a week
no external leaks, and i only smoke in vtec, so i did a compression test, with wide open throttle, and at operating temp
dry results #1 200psi #2 230psi #3 225psi #4 210psi
wet results (1 1/2 teaspoon mobil 1 10w-30)
#1 230psi #2 262psi #3 260psi #4 255psi
honda calls for 6-10 cranks so i did 8
im pretty positive the rings are shot, and since i do not want to get rid of it, don't want to keep adding oil, can't afford a full jdm gsr swap or total rebuild, i have been looking for separate gsr heads and blocks on craigslist, im going that route because i do not trust full swaps on craigslist.
so my question is can i use any obd2 block and head or do i have to find all obd2a? for sensors and what not
thanks
i have a 2000 gsr with 103,000 miles on it, long story short i lose about a quart of oil a week
no external leaks, and i only smoke in vtec, so i did a compression test, with wide open throttle, and at operating tempdry results #1 200psi #2 230psi #3 225psi #4 210psi
wet results (1 1/2 teaspoon mobil 1 10w-30)
#1 230psi #2 262psi #3 260psi #4 255psi
honda calls for 6-10 cranks so i did 8
im pretty positive the rings are shot, and since i do not want to get rid of it, don't want to keep adding oil, can't afford a full jdm gsr swap or total rebuild, i have been looking for separate gsr heads and blocks on craigslist, im going that route because i do not trust full swaps on craigslist.
so my question is can i use any obd2 block and head or do i have to find all obd2a? for sensors and what not
thanks
Last edited by TmantonyDC2; Oct 23, 2011 at 11:55 AM. Reason: fixed compression results
They would be if they were all at 270, however with cylinder one at 230 that is a 40 psi diff. max. can not exceed 28 psi, even the dry test it is off by 20 psi although I would like to see the actual numbers not "rounded off" ones, there definatly is a problem with that engine. 94
ok my apologies i guess my memory is shot the numbers i gave you were off, all the numbers were written down it my car and i didn't want to go get them at 2 o'clock in the morning
dry results
#1 200psi #2 230psi #3 225psi #4 210psi
wet results
#1 230psi #2 262psi #3 260psi #4 255psi
either way there is a huge difference wet and dry, i just need some advice, and if anyone knows if i absolutely need obd2a block and head or if i can get away with just obd2 that would be greatly appreciated, or if anyone knows where i can find a reliable swap
thanks, tony
dry results
#1 200psi #2 230psi #3 225psi #4 210psi
wet results
#1 230psi #2 262psi #3 260psi #4 255psi
either way there is a huge difference wet and dry, i just need some advice, and if anyone knows if i absolutely need obd2a block and head or if i can get away with just obd2 that would be greatly appreciated, or if anyone knows where i can find a reliable swap
thanks, tony
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I think the main difference between obd2a and obd2b is the harness.... The block should be identical.
Even obd1-obd2 blocks are similar minus 1 sensor I think.
But, if you buy any obd2 gsr block, it will fit underneath your head.
Just a tip, I think you should rebuild the bottom end. Rebuilds > swaps, and the money is more efficient. Its like renting vs mortgage. Sure the mortgage is 20-40% more expensive, but its 500% better. Think about it, all you will need is
new bearings
surfaced head
honed block
piston rings
hot tanking
optional:
oil pump, water pump, timing belt, gaskets etc, but not necessary. whatever you are coming close to in terms of a tune up/scheduled maintenance
Even obd1-obd2 blocks are similar minus 1 sensor I think.
But, if you buy any obd2 gsr block, it will fit underneath your head.
Just a tip, I think you should rebuild the bottom end. Rebuilds > swaps, and the money is more efficient. Its like renting vs mortgage. Sure the mortgage is 20-40% more expensive, but its 500% better. Think about it, all you will need is
new bearings
surfaced head
honed block
piston rings
hot tanking
optional:
oil pump, water pump, timing belt, gaskets etc, but not necessary. whatever you are coming close to in terms of a tune up/scheduled maintenance
your idea sounds good.
i've thought about just getting the block rebuilt but i figured it would take less time swapping an entire engine than pulling an engine and separating the block from the head, and then actually rebuilding it, but i guess it will eventually come down to cost, i would end up replacing my pumps and belt since i don't when they were last changed...
i've thought about just getting the block rebuilt but i figured it would take less time swapping an entire engine than pulling an engine and separating the block from the head, and then actually rebuilding it, but i guess it will eventually come down to cost, i would end up replacing my pumps and belt since i don't when they were last changed...
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