Hey everyone. Got a weird problem I think, maybe someone has encountered it before.

2000 Acura Integra GSR... basically stock. All it has is a short ram intake, but the problem occurred before and after.

Some background info: Bought the car, it set a code for a MAP sensor. Checked the circuit, found the map sensor bad. Replaced map sensor, cleared the codes, and it ran great for about 2 weeks. Then the problems happened. The car would run okay when first started in the morning for about 10 minutes, then after warming up, it would cut out, sputter, and eventually die out. It would backfire through the intake too. Every once in a while it will start to cut out and you can hit the gas and it'll come back and not cut off, but thats sometimes.

Things I've checked or done:
Fuel pressure- about 40-50 psi even when it dies.
Spark- always has spark, while running or trying to run
Fuel Injectors- Noid light lights up on all 4 cylinders while running or dying
Compression- 120-130 psi on all four cylinders
Oil is good
No coolant loss
Fuel pump changed
Distributor changed
Brand new spark plugs
Vacuum about 18 in. Hg. at idle
TPS adjusted and throttle body cleaned
IAC valve cleaned and passages cleaned
swapped ecus.

Also, the under hood fuse block had that burnt electrical smell and the connectors were a little dark. Replaced the fuse block and lubed the connectors.

I do have a scanner I can see all the data and codes and stuff on that. And plenty of tools to do what I need. Just need guidance in what to do next.

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

 

Have you checked both the valve and ign. timing?

Backfiring would indicate a timing issue.

Make sure timing belt tensioner is properly adjusted.

Just because of the "burnt electrical smell and the connectors were a little dark" I would check all the main power and ground connections, batt. post and clamp, [pos.(+) and neg.(-)] batt. to chassis ground, chassis to engine ground, batt. the engine bay fuse box, alt. to engine bay fuse box and the main fuses.
Do not just eyeball these connections, disconnect them and clean both contact surfaces and reconnect, making sure connections are "snug". 94

 

Thank you very much for the feedback, i did take all the grounds off, clean, and tighten them, I forgot to mention that. Also, I understand the timing you're talking about, but is that something that could come and go like this is doing? Thanks again

 

The compression seems really low.

 

Are there any CELs? OBDII should be going nuts if it is running like that. The codes should always be pulled to supply guidance.

 

It is unlikely timing is the issue because it is an "intermittent" problem, but backfiring would indicate a timing issue, I would check it, if for no other reason then to eliminate it as the problem.

I also have to agree with rd91sib18c5r compression is low, [missed that].

You should be at 270PSI, min. is 140PSI, with a max diff. between cylinders of 28PSI, are you sure your doing the compression test properly?

Maybe do a valve lash adjustment and recheck compression. 94

 

I've never seen compression at 270 psi. that is very high, and I know how to do a compression test yes. And yes, the codes that it will set is p0300, p0301,p0302,p0303,and p0304, which are misfire codes as we all know. Today I changed out the fuel rail and injectors, thinking maybe an injector was sticking open and loading the engine up. Didn't help. Also took the IAC valve out, cleaned it out, cleaned the port in the manifold and put it back on. Cleaned the throttle body. Checked the PCV. One thing I haven't done is changed the fuel filter. I was told today that the pressure could read good but the filter could be dirty enough to cause lack of fuel but it still won't run spraying brake clean in the throttle body. So I ruled that out. One thing I heard too and noticed is that it's not getting hot, the cooling fans never come on and the temperature only goes up to about 1/3, and that's as high as it'll go. I don't know if the ECT is wrong or the thermostat is bad. One more thing I noticed is that the head is leaking externally, don't know if it's leaking internally but the oil, coolant, and compression is good, so I don't think that the gasket is causing the problem. One last thing I saw is that the spark is orange, I'm used to small block chevy's and stuff but normally good spark is blue in color.

I appreciate all the help guys, keep it coming and I'll keep this updated. Thank you all very much.

 

oh, and btw, the way I was taught to do a compression test is to take all spark plugs out, hook the gauge up one cylinder at a time, and turn the engine so there are 3 compression strokes on the cylinder being test, record results, add a teaspoon of motor oil down the spark plug hole, hit 3 more compression strokes and record and compare. Is that how the Honda engines are done??? I am in no way trying to argue with anyone, just not familiar with Honda's and there numbers yet.

Thanks again,
Aaron

 

Compression test:
Warm engine
Unplug fuel injetor clips
Unplug distributor harness
Remove spark plugs one at a time
Install compression tester in a cylinder
Hold throttle at WOT
Crank engine
Repeat for all cylinders
The magnitude of the reading is highly dependent on the gauge, the consistency is not.

 

You may never have seen compression that high, [270PSI] but that is what it is on the B18C1 engine you have in your GS-R.

Dogginator's description is correct, I am pretty sure he means remove all spark plugs when he said, "Remove spark plugs one at a time", either way remove them all.

The one or two teaspoons of oil for a "wet" test is only for checking if the rings are the problem when you have low compression.

Now with that said, 120-130 PSI is very low, it is well below the min. 140PSI.
Your compression is NOT good, or either your not doing it properly or you have a problem with the compression tester
As mentioned diff. testers will give you diff. results but not that much.

Also an orange spark is a weak spark.

I would definatly replace the thermostat, sounds like it is stuck open.
I would do a valve lash adjustment.
I would find another compression tester, to eliminate it as the problem, and redo the compression test.

Also, please explain, "I noticed is that the head is leaking externally" exactly what does that mean? 94

 

Did you check to see if your cam gears are lined up? Maybe it slipped a tooth. I remember when my gsr was running like crap like yours but not as bad. Come to find out it slipped 1 tooth and but the cam gear back to where it was at. It ran great after that. Just a thought

 

thank yall very much. I will get my tester from work, the one I was using was older than me (22) so it may very well be a problem. Also, how much do you crank the engine... as high as the gauge will go? I was taught 3 strokes... but that was again, by a gm guy. And I meant the head gasket is leaking externally, not head. which means I can see oil coming out between the head and the block. I will try and borrow a distributor from a buddy and see if the spark gets better. I will also try the wet test. And as far as the timing goes, I thought about timing, but why would that come and go, a coworker said if the belt is getting hot and stretching, but that seemed like a stretch to me. Also will do the lash adjustment and change the thermostat. I also heard that coolant sensors go bad fairly regularly on these... true?

Thanks to everyone for all the help. I appreciate all the leads to go on.

 

I crank 4-5 times. It will equilibrate.

What were your CEL codes?

 

okay, that's probably the problem im having with the readings. DTCs: P0300 through p0304. Random misfire, cylinder 1 misfire, cylinder 2 misfire, cylinder 3 misfire, cylinder 4 misfire

 

A weak spark would result in random misfires.

You did say, "Distributor changed" does that mean the complete distributor assembly, including coil and ICM and was it a new or known working distributor? 94

 

its was new, and complete.

 

Then I would recheck the main powers and grounds, either the distributor assembly is not getting enough power or engine ground is bad, only things I can think of that would give you a weak spark when the distributor, [coil/ICM] is new.

Do a continuity check between batt. neg.(-) and the engines head.
Test the voltage at the distributor, [black/yellow].
Let me know the readings, this of coarse must be done when engine is not running "good". 94

 

what brand ignition coil and ICM do you recommend? oems are hard to find

 

I would stick with the stock ICM and coil... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

I run a stock ICM and an MSD coil, but I also run a 75 shot ZEX system. 94