Supension Help!!
Okay, so my car is lowered to the ground, every time i make a very tight turn (In a street doing a U-Turn, Ect.) and a knocking sound occurs. I have read on some forums about it being the diff, and the way to fix it is to raise the car, or to get extended ball joins to reduce the noise. So i've looked for extended ball joins, and i can only find them for EG, EK, and DC2. Is there a way to bolt the EG front suspension onto the EF Front? Or will there be a lot of fabrication involved? I need to know because that knock is annoying and the Buddy Club Extened Ball Joints have a lot of amazing reviews.
Also, LCA's. What are good for street, and for the occasional weekend race day. I have looked at Skunk2, Function and Form, Blox, KSport, Godspeed, Ect. Most of them say "Not For Street Use." How bad would it be to use either the Blox, or Function 7 LCA's for street use?
Also, LCA's. What are good for street, and for the occasional weekend race day. I have looked at Skunk2, Function and Form, Blox, KSport, Godspeed, Ect. Most of them say "Not For Street Use." How bad would it be to use either the Blox, or Function 7 LCA's for street use?
For starters they use the "For Off-Road Use Only" crap for legal stuff and to get out off stiffer regulations...
Knocking = Differential = Interesting...
Have you ever thought your C/V axle might be bad?
Knocking = Differential = Interesting...
Have you ever thought your C/V axle might be bad?
if it continually knocks when you turn its probably the axle.
never heard of a diff knocking lol....
and any control arms are fine for the street
i see your in tri cities. im from yakima
never heard of a diff knocking lol....
and any control arms are fine for the street
i see your in tri cities. im from yakima
so thank you lol And its only when i'm taking a turn, under 5mph, and the wheel is turned most of the to the right or left.
And i'm not sure if the sway bar link was bad last time i looked at it it was good.
And so i can get the Function7's that look sick as hell?
Haha And has anyone looked at the wilwood rear disks for the EF? It says they bolt right on to the old trailing arm but it seems kinda sketchy. Take off drum and hardware, Install disk brakes and Caliper brackets, Install new e-brake lines, done. Seems like.... i would need the rear disk conversion first but i don't know. Its on the company website but.... yeah.
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I have the same issue with my 91 Sedan and Im running stock suspension... It is the CV's, they are going out on my ride and potentially on yours as well - when you lowered your car did you add any sort of camber correction? Excessive camber can cause unneeded stress on CV joints...
supposedly if you remove the spindle from the trailing arm you can just bolt up any rear disk without changing the trailing arms....i read a write up on this a while back just cant remember where
Yeah, i checked my cv's, they looked and felt fine. i'll probably replace the whole axles when i start to build my motor. But no, i have not done front adjustable camber yet. Going the rear as soon as i get my disks.
I took the whole car up on a lift.. Yupp! It was my CV's. Need to get a new set of those, and does anyone know weather stock ball joint that are brand new would give me better traction? or would it be best to try and find a set of Extended Ball Joints?
lower extended ball joints will set the LCA further down to a "proper alignment" it would help gain a little bit more grip from your tires. i would look into a camber kit also, that would give you some more grip by adjusting in more positive camber
they say the turn-in is faster, no bump-steer, and less input needed for turns, much better high-speed stability and less pitch-roll. but i've personally never used them
i've also herd it pushes your knuckles 3/4" up and with "slammed cars" some problems occur, the UCA rests on the chassis or it could hit when you go over bumps. theres a couple threads floating around about these ball joints just search google.
are your ball joints bad and need to be replaced? if not i'd just get a camber kit and maybe roll your fenders so you can adjust the camber which means your tire would grip better
they say the turn-in is faster, no bump-steer, and less input needed for turns, much better high-speed stability and less pitch-roll. but i've personally never used them
i've also herd it pushes your knuckles 3/4" up and with "slammed cars" some problems occur, the UCA rests on the chassis or it could hit when you go over bumps. theres a couple threads floating around about these ball joints just search google.
are your ball joints bad and need to be replaced? if not i'd just get a camber kit and maybe roll your fenders so you can adjust the camber which means your tire would grip better
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