Valve seals
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From: Elk River, MN, United States
Hello everyone. I have a 1993 accord ex 4dr with 213,000 miles on it...and it has the F22A6. Got a freshly rebuilt tranny, new water pump, and new timimg belt. So car runs like a top except for burning just a little oil at start up and when i declerate it smells like oil burning also. I have been losing oil (about 1 quart) between oil changes (every 3,000 miles) for a while. From some quick research that I have done it seems like valve seals are to blame since I don't smell it under acceleration or at idle. I think the only reason why I have started to smell it is because the flexpipe in front of the Cat is leaking. If anyone can shed any light or provide some ideas, I'd appreciate it. I have not done a compression or leak down test either.
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From: Elk River, MN, United States
While I wait to figure out when and where to do those tests, is there a good chance it is the valve seals? I have a hard time believing it is the rings because it only stinks slowing down and right when it's fired up for a few seconds. Not while accelerating or idling. But I will have the tests done when the funds are there. New seals are 40 bucks so I figured I'd start there...
Thread Starter
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From: Elk River, MN, United States
Ok guys did the compression test tonight. Results:
Cylinder 1: 180
Cylinder 2: 190
Cylinder 3: 185
Cylinder 4: 190
Good/bad/ok? I don't know when I will be able to do a leak-down test but this was a big start! Any advice now?
Cylinder 1: 180
Cylinder 2: 190
Cylinder 3: 185
Cylinder 4: 190
Good/bad/ok? I don't know when I will be able to do a leak-down test but this was a big start! Any advice now?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Elk River, MN, United States
That is what I was thinking! Not bad for 213k. BTW I'm liking your build thread and site. One day when I have the money and time... Keep up the good work!
Yeah 190 psi @ 213k is a very good result.... More than likely your valve seals that are in need of replacing.
Will do, Thanks
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Elk River, MN, United States
So in doing the seals is there any spring compressor you recomend to buy/ better to rent? I saw a nice one for the vtec motors and wanted to know if something like that is made for the f22? Might be able to design one myself and have it machined. (in school for mechanical design) I see that I have it easy though. just pull valve cover and rocker arm assembly and put air into the cylinder. At each cylinder make sure the piston is at the top so in-case the valve falls it doesnt go very far. Any opinions or ideas? According to my chiltons thats all there is to it. Or am I completely off? Thanks.
I think I know which tool you are talking about, for the dohc engines... i don't think it'll work on the sohc engines iirc.
I pulled the heads apart on my dohc v6 and I used a tool like this...

it worked good.
as for the procedure, you pretty much got it. find a way to connect an air line to the spark plug thread to keep the cylinder full of air and have that piston at top dead center, use the tool as described in it's manual.
I pulled the heads apart on my dohc v6 and I used a tool like this...

it worked good.
as for the procedure, you pretty much got it. find a way to connect an air line to the spark plug thread to keep the cylinder full of air and have that piston at top dead center, use the tool as described in it's manual.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Elk River, MN, United States
I think I know which tool you are talking about, for the dohc engines... i don't think it'll work on the sohc engines iirc.
I pulled the heads apart on my dohc v6 and I used a tool like this...

it worked good.
as for the procedure, you pretty much got it. find a way to connect an air line to the spark plug thread to keep the cylinder full of air and have that piston at top dead center, use the tool as described in it's manual.
I pulled the heads apart on my dohc v6 and I used a tool like this...

it worked good.
as for the procedure, you pretty much got it. find a way to connect an air line to the spark plug thread to keep the cylinder full of air and have that piston at top dead center, use the tool as described in it's manual.
Take a good look at your compression tester. The gauge end should have a threaded (1/4 pipe?) connection.....
EDIT: See pic, I think you will see where I'm going...the brass quick connect, if that is on the hose from your compressor........
EDIT: See pic, I think you will see where I'm going...the brass quick connect, if that is on the hose from your compressor........
Last edited by Lost Again; Oct 9, 2011 at 07:26 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Elk River, MN, United States
We ended up using pretty much what you have pictured and a valve spring compressor from sears. Did them tonight. Wasn't bad except we dropped a valve keeper and after searching for a while we decided the only place it could have gone is down the oil return passage to the oil pan. After we drained the oil there was nothing. Flushed new oil through and nothing. Took the pan off and there it was! I have never been so happy in my life! So repair was a success, no more burning oil smell and no blue smoke on start up! Thank you all for your help! It was much appreciated! I don't know what I would do without this forum!
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