I bought a 1991 Honda Accord LX 2 DR 167,000 miles for $500 and I don't know whats going on. Its some kind of intermittent missfire hesitation clutch chatter kind of thing. Heres what happens, when I first start the car in the morning it won't take off without shuddering, once it gets going it will drive fine until I have to take off again. Once in a while when I stop at a light the idle will drop to about 550 and just shake horribly. Then i'll tap the gas and it clears up. But again when I take off it shudders like hell.

What I've done: I cleaned throttle body, Changed wires, plugs, valve cover gasket because it was leaking into the sparkplug tubes. I also checked for vacuum leaks and I couldn't find any.

One interesting thing that I found out is when I tap my brake over and over at idle the rpms actually ride to about 1000 but quickly drop when I stop.

I have the vacuum resivoir bypassed so my Cruise Control will work can that cause my problems? The resivoir leaks so I thought I would rather have cruise control then a vacuum leak. It only studders at idle .

The only kind of performance part is a cold air intake, a strut package, and lowering springs. All of these things where here when I bought the car.

What do you think would cause my problems.

 

I have a similar problem that I cannot figure out. If and when you figure it out please email me.

 

ok will do llsnappj. Can anyony help me?

 

I had a very similar issue before around the same mileage as you. Did all the steps you did but it continued. What it ended up being was the spark plugs! Even though they were new! I went to honda and bought the standard oem plugs and no problems since. Im not sure what spark plugs you a re using, but if their aftermarket try using oem ones. Do you have any CEL codes?

 

how to do all of the following is located in the fact

first off check the ecu for codes

check your base idle. clean the fast idle valve, idle air control valve, and throttle body. make sure there is no air in the coolant system. also check the connections for the idle air control valve and make sure the electrical plugs are not dirty or have any bare/loose wires

faulty egr system can cause a rough idle and poor low end performance(egr valve, clogged egr ports, solenoid) could be a possibility

 

I checked and there is no codes stored. Over the winter my check engine light came on when I jumped started it, it was for code 15. I reset the ecu and the light has not come on again. But it was ignition output signal. My issues started when it got humid out.

 

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

 

No there is no fuel fitting on the fuel rail.

 

i recently had an idle "hiccup" from putting in new NKG spark plugs, turns out one or more were bad, another NEW set worked better.

 

Have you tried cleaning the IAC, while there double check the FITV (doubt this is an issue but it doesn't hurt or cost anything). I'll assume that when you cleaned the tb, you got the ports to the IAC and FITV.

 

yeah i'ved cleaned the IAC it was black but didn't really help all that much. I did reset the ecu. For taking off i've noticed my clutch is spongy, but i have tried to bleed it an there is no air in there. My clutch master cylinder leaks an the slave squeaks could this be my clutch problem?

 

i wonder if the shudder might have something to do with the master and slave. when u stop at and idle do u put it in neutral or just push the clutch pedal down? see what happens to the idle when its in neutral. and fix the master and slave. u dont wanna get stuck anywhere.

 

I do both, sometimes I just hold the clutch and othertimes I put it in neutral. The idle stays the same at 7-800. I really don't want to change the clutch.

Can the master and slave cause shudder like that, The shudder really started to happen when the master started to leak, it leaks by the pedal. The slave started to squeak right after.

 

It's directly on the fuel filter in these.

 

Ok so today I had my auto teacher take it for a test drive and he says its clutch chatter pretty much what I thought. The valve cover gasket leaked oil all over the engine and tranny, so I think oil got on the clutch disk. If I burn the clutch a little bit it doesn't do it for the time being. Is there anyway I could fix it without changing the clutch?