I've got a '98 coupe with a JDM b16a siR II swap,
what bolt ons (besides i/h/e) can i do to improve power?

 

Also, I've rlly been considering the skunk2 i.m. & 65mm skunk2 tb;
if anyone has any experience with either of those.

 

You just listed like everybolt on part that gives you gains...a turbo "bolts" on technically

 

skunk2 stage 1 cams along with 2.5" intake and header/2.5" exhaust would help. The stock intake manifold is more than enough for that little 1.6L.

 

Spend money else where, all that will do is give you a few peak hp with losses every where else in the power band. If you don't have a header yet get a toda or toda replica, great b16 header

 

lol thx but I plan on staying all motor

 

Yea im already running a 2.5" intake & exhaust with a header(thx for the recommendation tho m shake)
As far as the cams go that's something i planned on doing a little down the road since they are kinda at the top of my budget right now.

 

Well it seems like ur set for the moment, save up for cams, valvetrain and a tune. Or put in a 4.7 or 4.9 final drive

 

Do the above mod along with 68mm TB using the STD intake manifold, 3"SRI,Use a Toda style header with a good 2.5" exhaust get it tuned and you will be happy.If you want alittle more stick in a GSR intake cam and your good to go.

 

What exactly is done when I get the car tuned?
They tuner dynos my car and tunes my ecu accordingly?

 

What kind of difference can I expect with one of those final drives as opposed to the stock one?
& if I go with a 68mm tb will I have to get my i.m. bored
or will they match up?

 

JESUS EVERY DAY ANOTHER B16 WHAT DO I DO THREAD POPS UP. TRY GOOGLING

 

Go to teammfactory.com and read about the effect it'll have.
Both will have to bored out to match.

 

Yeah, ***** getting out of hand here...

 

The best thing i ever did to my b16 was swap that little dude out for a b20 block...

b16 all motor is pointless.... b16 turbo is a beast but N/A..... No sir...

 

b16 all motor is not pointless. If you get a crower 84.5mm stroker kit and sleeve the block to 84.5 or 85mm, you end up with a 1.9L b series that will safely rev up to 11,000rpm and be less stressful on the engine components than a similarly built 89mm stroked b-series at 9000 rpm. Look at the mean piston speeds, you are shooting for between 2250 and 2500 fps. Horsepower production has to do with torque AND rpm range... As for bolt ons, it depends on how technically skilled you are. I consider cams a "bolt-on", but that's because I've done an entire rebuild and swap for my teg. Some people would take a valve cover off and be totally dumb founded. Engine modification ability varies drastically from person to person.

 

hahaha really? stroker kit plus a sleeved block equals waste of money. It's N/A buddy not turbo there is no point to sleeve. Just buy a b20 and build it and save a ton....

Ohhh ya I don't think anyone asked how "skilled" you are weirdo..... lol.

 

all b-series r great. some like goin the easy way and get the b18cr and some like havin a little fun w wat they got. i personally like bein a little different... u know seein wat i can get out of the little b16 and have some fun w it. a lot of people just go b18c inwhich im not knocking but i kinda like trying to get little brother to beat up on big brother.... and u dont need a lot of money to get power from a b16a.

 

uhhh how is putting a 2.0L on there the best idea ever but stroking it to 1.9L, .1L under a waste of money? it'd do the same thing. when the walls are super thin sleeves are necassary.

either way though. unless you love your b16 switch to a b18/b20 it is worth it. otherwise get ready to spend and enjoy high rpms.

 

Holy **** batman, your as dumb as a door ****!!! First, stroked & sleeved b16a is a HUGE waste of money. Second, at that point rod/stroke ratio and piston speed are damn near identical to a b18c, where the hell are you getting "safe" 11,000rpm?!?! 11,000rpm on a "built" stock stroke b16 is not nearly as bad but how long will it really last??

 

Oh, I'm sorry, I didn't have the exact rpm limit.
b16a with stock stroke
mean piston speed at 11000 rpm- 2356 feet per second (fps)
Rod/Stroke ratio (R/S)- 1.73:1

b16a with 84.5mm stroke
mean piston speed at 10500 rpm- 2484 fps
R/S- 1.57:1

B18C with stock stroke
mean piston speed at 10500 rpm- 2533 fps
R/S- 1.58:1

B18C with 89mm stroke
mean piston speed at 10500 rpm- 2585 fps
R/S- 1.54:1

So a b16 with a stock stroke is easier on engine components at 11000 rpm than the rest of the builds at 10500, but the stroked b16 is still in the safe zone under the max of 2500 fps... Assuming you didn't skimp out on parts and you built it right, the engine would last under normal dd conditions. If you raced it, the life would obviously go down, but that's expected.

 

by the time you build the B16 for 11k rpms, your going to have a $5000 engine. between sleeving, and building it to maximize the sleeving. Its the most idiotic idea ive heard in years.. unless your baller and got 5k engine going into a $2k car. but who the **** would do that as a DD?




OP: your B16 is nothing but noise maker. a glorified D16y with an extra cam. it has no power unless you feed it boost. youll rev high, makes all kinds of noise, and still be slow.


Sell the swap to JR integra so he can dump 5 grand into it and buy 1.8l or 2.0l or boost the ****in thing

 

I never said it would be cheap, I said that it is possible to make a great b16. If you are on a budget, build a c1 or ls/v. If you want to be different and you have the money, build the b16.

 

slap a type r head on the b16 block and ull be happy

 

ive done it and it gives it a good kick hangs right w the b18c easy mod...