I finally picked up the engine hoist and engine stand today, I'm excited. Im ready to tear it down... all I need to hear from you guys is give me a GO and second opinions on this.

Engine Spec: 97 GSR JDM 180hp.

GOALS:

210 - 240 HP
RevHard Stage II turbo Kit
Neptune ECU
440cc injector and upgrade pump of course.
AEM fuel rail & B&M FPR
2.5 exhaust pipe & magnaflow quiet muffler
New OEM head gasket & New OEM head bolts ( will be done by friday 09/09/11
New OEM water pump (will be done by friday also)
Mishimoto Thermostat

My friend's dad used owned a car repair shop, he helps me to rebuild the head which the following:

New set of valves, valve seats, sleeves, guides... all OEM ( Reuse springs)

For the block I planned to purchase ALL OEM pistons, rods and bearings.

I don't have to spend a lot on the labor because he's nice enough to do it without charging me.... he's retired he doesn't has any better to do.

So do you think I do the right things on the block? I'm about to be a dad, I am not interested into racing or street race. I always wanted to turbo car and a little power on the side. With all the OEM parts, do you think my engine can handle 240whp? and use for DD? From home to the air force base is about 20 miles each way...

Any input would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks for your time.

 

i would get 550cc injectors to start, ditch the AEM rail and use that $$ for a clutch disc.

youll def make your power goal with that set up, but youll get bored of it fast and want to up the boost a little.. it happens to all of us.


If your going to be a dad then i hope u got deep pockets.. kids are ****in expensive!

 

Sounds like my old setup on a b18b. You should have no problem hitting your goals with that setup. Very reasonable, but as stated the bug will bite you and you will want more it happens to all of us just a matter of time.

 

why do you want to waste your money on oem parts other than bearings? They are over priced! You can go to realstreetperformance.com and buy wiseco pistons and eagle rods for 750. If you buy parts from the stealership you will probably pay the same if not more and this setup is good for 500whp on a stock sleeve. If you are gonna tell me you are gonna buy used oem rods you are throwing away money. Do your self a favor and do it right the first time or you will be just wasting money

 

+1

Dont waste your money on OEM, its only time before you want to turn up the boost for some more power. You might as well do it while you have everything apart.

 

+2

 

x3, but also do headstuds instead of the head bolts. This will do a lot more for you and keep the head from lifting under boost

 

anything wrong with the motor? for anything under 300whp i wouldn't even bother to disassemble.

 

If there's nothing wrong with the bottom end,save your money for your kid..that way you'll have some restraint knowing that its a stock bottom daily driver.

With boost your always upgrading or modifying something next thing you know you have 10k+ money pit.

If it was me I would never tear down a motor to replace it with oem internals especially for forced induction.

 

 

Your gsr motor can handle 300whp easily without any built internals. OEM head gasket has been proven to handle 500hp, but if your goal is under 300hp, OEM head gasket will be fine. Other than that, make sure you have a legit tuner, and you are good to go.

 

My first turbo kit was also a RH Stg2 kit with the SC34. It is now on a friend's bone stock GSR engine making 280whp at 11psi.

Don't touch the engine. At most do head STUDS (not bolts). And I would recommend at least 550cc preferably 750cc injectors.

If you are dead set on rebuilding the engine then at least go with forged pistons and upgraded rods.

 

for your power goal, leave the engine stock.

 

This is my first JDM engine, I bought it from HMotorOnline.com ... I'm sure they're an honest company.... but I am not sure if I can trust the company oversea though. They're said my engine is about 10k - 50k miles on in. I affraid if my engine is at 50k then I assumed it can't handle that 240hp for very long.. i could be wrong too. Well.... I went to returned most of the parts back to the acura dealer here... had to paid 15% on restocking parts but it's ok......

Yeah.. I'm set on 210 - 240hp no more than that. I'm sure boost bug will bite me but it will be a long way down the road....

Thanks a lot for your help guys...... I really appreciate all the inputs.

 

50k on a gsr engine it's good to go for 300hp D.D. You can see here on H.T.
on ( Post your GSR HP numbers.)

 

I've never owned any high performance car before.... I wouldn't know hahaha. My family have total 4 honda accords 91 = 380k miles 97 = 188k miles 04 = 106k miles 08 = 44k miles. Gotta love Honda.

Thanks... i'm less worry about now..

 

my lsvtec(similar to gsr) has easily over 200k. held up fine, just get a good tuner
266whp@8 psi on 89 octane but i would never recommend that for anybody to use, only 91 or higher

if you want no more than 240whp, find like a 6psi or less? spring

 

Which one should i get for my RH stage 2?

 

Neither..


Real Garrett I/C cores and good endtanks ready to rock for the $335, and even more efficient.

But if the budget is SUB $300 - M-line Mishimoto (First one you showed)

Of course I've made the Mishimoto look like the one below because the anodizing they use for black (or any other color) is ****.
This person wanted military olive drab green to go with his white 99 EJ8. It was not easy to do because Mishimoto puts a type of epoxy coating on the surface that is a PITA to get off (even in an industrial setting) to get it clean enough to anodize. The Garretts don't do that.

 

Shodan,

That M line is pretty big for his set up.. thats alot of volume to fill up. Wouldnt he be better with the Z line (smaller)

 

for a street car, you want a big intercooler

 

Depends upon use of the car. That's why I suggested the durable Go-autowerks Garrett intercooler first before the Z-line. If he changes turbos and setups later, he'll be covered regardless. Z-line would be LAST on my list.

 

If your not going to go for more power after this, The following intercooler will be fine. We've run alot of 250whp cars on this cooler and had no issues with IAT's. I'd also suggest going with headstuds. The stock motor should be fine with a good tune. I'd go with a Walbro fuel pump, decent sized injectors (580cc+), and clutch disc (or complete stage 2 comp kit for $295). We don't really like Neptune but I know alot of guys run it so you should be good to go regarding everything else.

PM me if interested!!

Precision 350hp intercooler - $265 shipped

Overall dimensions:
26 3/4"L X 6 1/4"H X 3 1/2"D

Air inlet/outlet dimensions:
2 1/2"




If you want room to grow, then go with this for another $90. This will be fine with your current turbosetup and definitely handle your goals if you decide to ever go for 500whp+

Precision 600hp intercooler - $375 shipped

Overall dimensions:
31 1/2"L X 8.0"H X 3 1/2"D

Air inlet/outlet dimensions:
2 3/4"

 

Ditch the b+m (they tend to go out), and install a walbaro 255, base fuel pressure will be around 50.