cooling and fans
Thread Starter
Who the fack changed my title?!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,195
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From: Houston, TX, USA
ok so i am considering buying this 3 row aluminum radiator and a flexalite 2000 cfm fan for my lsvtec turbo in my hatch. did some research and the radiator itself is a half size radiator. also i did some research about the x line radiator from mishimoto versus this radiator, its WAY thicker than mishimotos and a hell of a lot cheaper. not even koyo can compare to the size and density this radiator has. does anyone think this is a bad idea? high cfm fan and radiator bigger than name brand but cheaper? have heard about some people sharing their experiences with cheaper radiators and not having a problem at all.
what brand is the 3 row, ebay generic?
high cfm fan will help alot
i got a $40 3 row radiator from parts store, ive used the same brand proven to work
no overheating on my lsvt
high cfm fan will help alot
i got a $40 3 row radiator from parts store, ive used the same brand proven to work
no overheating on my lsvt
Thread Starter
Who the fack changed my title?!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX, USA
Thread Starter
Who the fack changed my title?!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX, USA
Dual pass will cool better than a dual core or tripple core. Good luck fitting a 16" fan. 14" is the largest you can go on a half core. and they make 14" fans that have more flow that that 16" IE: im running a Zirgo Beyond cool 14" s blade. flows 2350cfm
I havent heard of zirgo, I have a spal 13 1750. I wonder at what air pressure they get their 2350cfm but from the numbers it def. looks like a good alternative to the spal. For the cheep ebay radiators, I just blew my ebay radiator up. I have a mishimoto on order hope it get here tomorrow. The radiator cap is good and no blow by, it came with a .9 bar cap. I put a 1.1bar in place of the cap like my stock one and thats when it started to look like a balloon. The core it self started to bulge out the sides and the ends cracked at the top and bottom. I was fine before the turbo but with the hot florida sun and 500hp worth of heat, at this point I believe the little extra money is well worth it. The koyo and mishimoto both come with 1.3 bar caps from what I have read.
i had the straight blade and it put out 2175cfm. imo, best cost efficient fan out there for the amount of air it moves
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A 1000cfm fan may flow more than some 2300cfm fans if the radiator creates enough pressure drop. Fans are rated with zero restrictions, but some companies like SPAL list flow at various pressure drops. Another thing, a shrouded 1000cfm fan may cool better than a bare 2300cfm fan.
Cool smarter, not harder.
Cool smarter, not harder.
Thread Starter
Who the fack changed my title?!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX, USA
A 1000cfm fan may flow more than some 2300cfm fans if the radiator creates enough pressure drop. Fans are rated with zero restrictions, but some companies like SPAL list flow at various pressure drops. Another thing, a shrouded 1000cfm fan may cool better than a bare 2300cfm fan.
Cool smarter, not harder.
Cool smarter, not harder.
A 1000cfm fan may flow more than some 2300cfm fans if the radiator creates enough pressure drop. Fans are rated with zero restrictions, but some companies like SPAL list flow at various pressure drops. Another thing, a shrouded 1000cfm fan may cool better than a bare 2300cfm fan.
Cool smarter, not harder.
Cool smarter, not harder.
This is true, i cant say that zirgo does this but i can say that the fan in my car moves ALOT of air. IE my buddy is running a FAL and it moves about half the air my zirgo moves. Zirgo is a good company check them out online.
Also running a 14" zirgo covres about 90% of the surface area on a half core radiator which essentially acts like a shroud but i agree a shrouded fan is much more effecient than just a bare fan. Most people run small 12" bare fans and wonder why their cars run hot. Its just a tiny fan in the middle of the radiator, doesnt pull enough heat out of the rad.
Then that leads to the next argument the car should only need the fan to keep it cool in traffic and very low speeds, once you have air movement the fan shouldnt have to run at all.
Honda-Tech Member
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From: latitude 39.6 longitude 78.9
I'm having issues myself. Running a cheap 1250cfm fan on oem rad with no shroud. I ran this setup for a year with no problem and then did a motor swap. Now my dumptube is really close to the rad. Now it starts to heat up when sitting still and goes back down once moving. Fan is coming on and I have a new oem theromstat. Anyways I can pick up a EG fal fan setup with shroud and dual core 1/2 rad for cheap. Think this would be a better cooling setup?
pusher setups never work as well as a puller setup, also shrouding a pusher setup is not recomended. it blocks natural airlfow and will cause it to run hotter. Also fans setup as pushers dont flow as much cfm. generally all the blade designs are setup to run as pullers
Whats your setup and what car is it in and why cant you run a puller setup? Pics?
Whats your setup and what car is it in and why cant you run a puller setup? Pics?
Honda-Tech Member
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From: latitude 39.6 longitude 78.9
pusher setups never work as well as a puller setup, also shrouding a pusher setup is not recomended. it blocks natural airlfow and will cause it to run hotter. Also fans setup as pushers dont flow as much cfm. generally all the blade designs are setup to run as pullers
Whats your setup and what car is it in and why cant you run a puller setup? Pics?
Whats your setup and what car is it in and why cant you run a puller setup? Pics?
I am runner a puller setup on the pass side of my oem integra rad. It worked fine for a while but once swapping a different motor and turbo manifold the dump has gotten really close on the driver side of the rad. I'm saying swapping to the fal fan that has a shroud hopefully fixes my issue but if not would swapping to that fan and dual core 1/2 rad be a better idea? Since no dump will be close and air will get into the bay without any obstruction.
does anyone know if a CXRacing radiator is a dual pass?
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=RADI
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=RADI
Not sure if this was direted towards my issue or not.
I am runner a puller setup on the pass side of my oem integra rad. It worked fine for a while but once swapping a different motor and turbo manifold the dump has gotten really close on the driver side of the rad. I'm saying swapping to the fal fan that has a shroud hopefully fixes my issue but if not would swapping to that fan and dual core 1/2 rad be a better idea? Since no dump will be close and air will get into the bay without any obstruction.
I am runner a puller setup on the pass side of my oem integra rad. It worked fine for a while but once swapping a different motor and turbo manifold the dump has gotten really close on the driver side of the rad. I'm saying swapping to the fal fan that has a shroud hopefully fixes my issue but if not would swapping to that fan and dual core 1/2 rad be a better idea? Since no dump will be close and air will get into the bay without any obstruction.
13inch spal Fan on an ebay half rad on a boosted setup in an EF cramped bay...never once over heated even on the hottest days here in chicago sitting in traffic.
Honda-Tech Member
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If your running a full sized radiator and your overheating you have other issues. That car should run low 190's with turbo and stock radiator. My car stays 196-200 on a half core in a dc chassis driving with no fan on. If you can fit a puller on the pass side put a 14" and put a pusher 12" on the driver side but like i said it should be running good temps. make sure the dump tube is wrapped and down far enough then it wont be an issue
Thread Starter
Who the fack changed my title?!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 1
From: Houston, TX, USA
Dump is plenty long but not wrapped. I'm just heating up sitting still and not all the time. Mainly humid hot days. Gonna try the fal with shroud as a puller and see if that works. Next step will be using my cheap 12" slim fan as a pusher on the outside of the rad. Idk maybe my oem thermo is going bad. Only does this sitting still. I'll try it and see.
Honda-Tech Member
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The fal with the shroud doesnt move a whole lot of air. Get a 14" zirgo on the passenger side and it will cool the car off plenty, you can also put a 12" pusher on the driver side to aid in the really warm days. Is it runnign hotter when a/c is on or do you no longer have ac ?
Oh well if its free then run it. I was under the assumption you were about to drop close to 200 bucks on a FAL so thats why i made that recomendation well plus the zirgo flws more air




