Hey guys,

I am in desperate need of some expert advice from any tuner who is experienced with high boost Sohc d16z6 vtec engine. Specifically in regards to ignition timing, Boost levels, head gaskets, Head stud torque settings and cylinder pressures etc.

If anyone has experience or could push me towards someone who does please chime in or PM

Thanks for reading

 

Simple advice:
1. Run arp head studs using the specs arp recommends.
2. Use a factory head gasket
3. Use a dyno to find maximum break torque (google it)

 

...

 

With those values you shouldn't be lifting anything.
I have only seen a head lift once out of the hundreds of cars I have personally dyno tuned.

 

You need to post hella more details about the setup and boost levels...a calibration and log as well.

 

"head lift" is usually a cheap head gasket, detonation (even if you think not) or improperly torqued down head.

 

What CR is the engine? 12-13 degrees isnt alot of timing for only 15PSI

 

Hey guys,

Best i start from the beginning. My setup is

ERL spec built block
Dart Sleeves with closed deck
CP 67mm pistons
Crower Ibeam rods
Acl bearings
moroso large capacity oil pan
75mm folded tube and fin intercooler
Greddy oil cooler
twin core half size radiator with spoon 1.35bar cap
New sillicon radiator hoses
D16y8 head
ARP series 2000 head studs torqued to 70ft/lbs
Metal head gasket
Zex cam
supertech valve train
ramhorn manifold (all exhaust componets have been heat treated down to cat)
garrett Gt3040 turbo (with heat bag)
38mm tial wastegate
hondata s300C
C/R 8.7:1
98octain (this is our highest quality pump fuel)

In the beginning i was tuned on run in tune @ 180whp 11psi and no vtec 6000 rev limit. I drove the around for 4000ks for shake down / run in session. Never had problems with overheating, head lifting, oil/coolant mix etc. After this i can be sure that my heating system is well sufficient.

Now after i have been tuned with more power. 290 whp @ 16psi, vtec and 8000 rev cut, i noticed it has pushed coolant from the overflow bottle on the dyno (at the time i simply thought the bottle was overfilled). Since then i have had more water builtup in my exhaust (not green), black carbon particles in my coolant, more bubbles and foam and useing coolant whenever i boost. My leakdown and radiator tests are clear but i am certain i have a head gasket breach due to reading countless threds of guys with the exact same problem spanning back over the last decade !... i am very certain this is not a cooling issue... and deffinately not a mechanical since i am using the best parts you can buy... there are no weak links !

I started the car one morning, cycled the thermostat over 5 times and bled the system as best i could. Started recording on the datalogger and got everything to operating temperate and when for a drive. In 35min i hit full boost twice in 2nd gear and the rest was normal street sensibily driving. At the end the car dropped out on the highway and overheated, i filled up the radiator some more and putted to the shopping center in which i got towed home. While i was waiting i started the car with the radiator cap off and i literally had nearly a 5inch fountain coming from my radiator neck. Once the car was towed home the fountain was much smaller but still bubbles etc.

Possible anyone could look over my map & datalogg from that day and give me some advice? After this has been replaced i think i will be incoorporateing my water meth injection 100% into my tune as a safety buffer... maybe going some less agressive timing (if thats the issue) Still need to wait and see though once the head has been removed !

 

Pull the head off, check your sleeves to make sure they are not sinking.
Make sure your deck is flat...
Make sure your head is flat...

Is your distributor synced to your s300?
i.e. 16 degrees in ems = 16 degrees btdc via timing light.

The timing values you posted are not advanced enough to cause head lift on 98 octane. (Assuming your distributor timing is synced).

 

Its hard to say at the moment as it engine hasnt been cracked open. But i bought the ERL block 2nd hand and then had overhauled here locally. So i cant see how the sleeves could have sank as they would have settled with the first owner.

The Deck, head was tru when assembled.

I am useing D16z6 block, D16y8 head, D15b7 Dizzy (so yes you can set the base timing with this dizzy - Been through this dizzy issue a few months back) So yes the dizzy is correct and synced!

 

use an oem head gasket and double check the block for sunken sleeves, just to rule it out.

if you are using ARP head studs, follow the ARP torque specs 100%. dont over torque. ive made 480whp on my SOHC (y8 head too).

 

yep your gasket is toast...

could be sunk sleeves or uneven surface on the head or block

 

how could it possibly be sunk sleeves if the compression and leakdown test is clear? I thought a sunk sleeve would be a major breech ?

 

He said "could be".

Take the motor apart & stop wasting your time on the internet trying to figure out what it "could be".

 

Roger that... keep you posted

 

What do you think guys. This is the foreign debris i and finding everywhere in my coolant however.. i had the core flushed today and i was told there has been slight electrolosys (spelling?) on the inside. Unsure if this debris is from the inside of my radiator or from my head gasket breaking down.