Driver window switch couldn't control pass window, now pass switch dead
Hi Folks,
My '98 has had a non-functional driver-side switch that wouldn't control the passenger window up or down for a couple of years. Just ignored it since it's no biggie to reach over and hit the passenger window switch.
But a few days ago the pass window switch stopped working.
Looking at the schematics I "think" that the problem might actually be 100% in the driver door switch mechanism.
Do folks agree or have other thoughts on what might be wrong?
Steve
My '98 has had a non-functional driver-side switch that wouldn't control the passenger window up or down for a couple of years. Just ignored it since it's no biggie to reach over and hit the passenger window switch.
But a few days ago the pass window switch stopped working.
Looking at the schematics I "think" that the problem might actually be 100% in the driver door switch mechanism.
Do folks agree or have other thoughts on what might be wrong?
Steve
does your car have remote controled windows?
have you taken the passenger door cover off, and put + and - 12 volts across the window motor's blue/white and blue/red wires (at the motor connector)?
did you confirm that you could see the red indicator, on the master switch's (driver side) child proof toggle button?
have you taken the passenger door cover off, and put + and - 12 volts across the window motor's blue/white and blue/red wires (at the motor connector)?
did you confirm that you could see the red indicator, on the master switch's (driver side) child proof toggle button?
does your car have remote controled windows?
have you taken the passenger door cover off, and put + and - 12 volts across the window motor's blue/white and blue/red wires (at the motor connector)?
did you confirm that you could see the red indicator, on the master switch's (driver side) child proof toggle button?
have you taken the passenger door cover off, and put + and - 12 volts across the window motor's blue/white and blue/red wires (at the motor connector)?
did you confirm that you could see the red indicator, on the master switch's (driver side) child proof toggle button?
And I did try rocking the master switch back and forth, to no avail.
Steve
Spending the couple of minutes and some cheap wire (assuming you don't have any) to test the motor is a good first step, then start testing with a DMM until you find the problem.
Really you could just go straight to the DMM and testing, if you aren't getting power to the motor then it really doesn't matter if the motor works or not
Really you could just go straight to the DMM and testing, if you aren't getting power to the motor then it really doesn't matter if the motor works or not
Spending the couple of minutes and some cheap wire (assuming you don't have any) to test the motor is a good first step, then start testing with a DMM until you find the problem.
Really you could just go straight to the DMM and testing, if you aren't getting power to the motor then it really doesn't matter if the motor works or not
Really you could just go straight to the DMM and testing, if you aren't getting power to the motor then it really doesn't matter if the motor works or not

I think I've proven that the original problem was just with the window switch in the driver's door that controls the pass window (I think), since the passenger switch worked fine for the last few years but the driver switch didn't. And from the schematic it looks like the driver switch assy could be responsible for the passenger switch not working. AND the driver assy gets hammered everytime I slam (I mean gently close) the door.

I also may pull the panel and just make sure the connector didn't come loose from the last time I dorked with speakers on that door. There's always a chance I didn't lock it tight.
Thanks for the replies.
After I figure it out I'll post a reply just in case someone else has a similar issue down the road.
Steve
The drivers assembly can cause the problem, but so can other things, so if you really wanted to find the best bang for the buck I'd say that troubleshooting (which is free basically) is cheaper than a switch panel from a junkyard.
So I have some more clues, and I think I've elimintated a bunch of possibilities.
Pulled driver door apart. Removed switch assy. Pulled it apart. Doesn't look bad. Master switch good (tested with DVM). Couldn't quite figure out how the switch works electrically by looking at the back unfortunately. Put it back together still have problem.
Contacts on all connectors don't look rusted.
Here's the big one: Pushing up on either the pass. switch or the driver-side pass switch makes a click in the pass door, as if it's trying to close further (the window is fully closed).
BUT I hear nothing from the down on either switch.
Doesn't this mean it's likely the driver-side switch assy?
Steve
Pulled driver door apart. Removed switch assy. Pulled it apart. Doesn't look bad. Master switch good (tested with DVM). Couldn't quite figure out how the switch works electrically by looking at the back unfortunately. Put it back together still have problem.
Contacts on all connectors don't look rusted.
Here's the big one: Pushing up on either the pass. switch or the driver-side pass switch makes a click in the pass door, as if it's trying to close further (the window is fully closed).
BUT I hear nothing from the down on either switch.
Doesn't this mean it's likely the driver-side switch assy?
Steve
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If the fuse were blown there would be no click when pushing the switch "up". That's why by deduction I believe the one possibility is the switch assy on the driver side. The motor's obviously fine. It's getting electricity (up), but not down. The wiring from the driver switch assy must be ok also because if there were a problem, there would also be no click in up position.
Is my logic wrong?
Steve
Is my logic wrong?
Steve
Well, it's solved!
It was the driver's side switch assy. I ordered a salvage one ($52 removed and delivered). The salvage one was disgusting, both cosmetically and mechanically. The auto-down switch was completely messed up.
So I took both assy's apart and swapped the salvage board into my mechanical assy.
WORKS PERFECT!
So the 1st problem (pass window switch won't work) and the eventual 2nd problem (driver's side pass window switch won't work) were both the left-side switch board.
Thanks for everyone's comments and ideas, and hopefully this thread will help someone else out down the road.
Steve
It was the driver's side switch assy. I ordered a salvage one ($52 removed and delivered). The salvage one was disgusting, both cosmetically and mechanically. The auto-down switch was completely messed up.
So I took both assy's apart and swapped the salvage board into my mechanical assy.
WORKS PERFECT!
So the 1st problem (pass window switch won't work) and the eventual 2nd problem (driver's side pass window switch won't work) were both the left-side switch board.
Thanks for everyone's comments and ideas, and hopefully this thread will help someone else out down the road.
Steve
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