Integra window switch problems
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Integra window switch problems
The other day I went to roll my driver side window down and it wouldn't move. So I press the button to roll the passenger side window, and it wouldn't roll down either. But the passenger side window would roll down with the switch on the passenger side. I swapped fuses and that did not work either, so I came to the conclusion that it was my window switch, I replaced it today, and it didn't fix anything.
I started the process of elimination by trying to jump the white/yellow(pos) wire to the red/yellow and the black (neg) to the red/blue to bypass the switch, but nothing happened. So I wired a 12v wire straight to the red/yellow and a ground to the red/blue and the window rolled down fine. When I reversed the wires, the window went back up. I decided to take a multimeter to the window switch plug and these were the readings I got with the ignition on.
White/yellow (main window power) - 0.45
Blue/green (passenger window) - 0.35
Blue/yellow (passenger window) - 0.35
Blue/black (?)- 0.43
I've checked and swapped fuses left and right. Still no go. Anybody have any ideas what might cause such low voltage in these wires or had the same problem? Thanks in advance.
I started the process of elimination by trying to jump the white/yellow(pos) wire to the red/yellow and the black (neg) to the red/blue to bypass the switch, but nothing happened. So I wired a 12v wire straight to the red/yellow and a ground to the red/blue and the window rolled down fine. When I reversed the wires, the window went back up. I decided to take a multimeter to the window switch plug and these were the readings I got with the ignition on.
White/yellow (main window power) - 0.45
Blue/green (passenger window) - 0.35
Blue/yellow (passenger window) - 0.35
Blue/black (?)- 0.43
I've checked and swapped fuses left and right. Still no go. Anybody have any ideas what might cause such low voltage in these wires or had the same problem? Thanks in advance.
Last edited by csmith21; 02-03-2011 at 06:40 AM.
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Re: Integra window switch problems
Did you not read it, the motor was fine if it was able to roll the window up and down when I put power to it. The motor would have nothing to do with the low output of wires that supply power to the motor, not wires coming from it. I appreciate the response, but please read the whole post before commenting.
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Re: Integra window switch problems
schematics.jpg?t=1296704001
Here are the schematics. I've gone over this several times and swapped fuses and tested the relay. Still can't figure it out. Maybe someone can point out something I may be missing.
Here are the schematics. I've gone over this several times and swapped fuses and tested the relay. Still can't figure it out. Maybe someone can point out something I may be missing.
#5
Re: Integra window switch problems
Has Your Window Switches Loosen up at At All? I too have the same problem but only when i roll up my passanger window from my driver side switch. Im just going to buy a whole new driver side window switch. at first I thought it was a battery issue or what you checked. and then I just took the whole componet apart and nothing.
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Re: Integra window switch problems
Has Your Window Switches Loosen up at At All? I too have the same problem but only when i roll up my passanger window from my driver side switch. Im just going to buy a whole new driver side window switch. at first I thought it was a battery issue or what you checked. and then I just took the whole componet apart and nothing.
#7
Re: Integra window switch problems
Has Your Window Switches Loosen up at At All? I too have the same problem but only when i roll up my passanger window from my driver side switch. Im just going to buy a whole new driver side window switch. at first I thought it was a battery issue or what you checked. and then I just took the whole componet apart and nothing.
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Re: Integra window switch problems
The power window system in our cars are "Polarity Reversing Ground At Rest", meaning both the leads going to the motors, [red/yellow, red/blue and blue/red, blue/white] are grounds, when everything is plugged in all 4 leads should test as grounds, [full continuity to chassis ground], when switch is rocked for up or down, the ground is "lifted" from one of the leads and 12V+ is supplied to it, the other lead is still a ground.
To test the switch you need to test for both the 12V+ and the ground, the simplest way is with a 12V test light because it has a load, [the light] a multimeter has no load or very little load.
Connect one end of test light to one motor lead, [red/yellow] and the other end to the other lead, [red/blue] rock the switch both ways, [for up and down] the test light should light up both ways, if not, there is a problem with the switch, a problem with the ground input or a problem with the 12V+ input.
In your case, because of low volt readings I would suspect a power issue, because the problem is on the drivers side, [pass. window works from pass. side switch but not drivers side switch] I would pull the door harness to chassis harness rubber boot, [peel it off the "A" pillar plug, pop the other end into the door and slide the boot down the wires into the door] look for broken leads, [white/yellow and blue/black].
It is a fairly common problem on the drivers door of any car, [as it is the one that is opened and closed the most] we fix this on cars once or twice a month and is always the first thing we check, as it is the easiest to get at. 94
To test the switch you need to test for both the 12V+ and the ground, the simplest way is with a 12V test light because it has a load, [the light] a multimeter has no load or very little load.
Connect one end of test light to one motor lead, [red/yellow] and the other end to the other lead, [red/blue] rock the switch both ways, [for up and down] the test light should light up both ways, if not, there is a problem with the switch, a problem with the ground input or a problem with the 12V+ input.
In your case, because of low volt readings I would suspect a power issue, because the problem is on the drivers side, [pass. window works from pass. side switch but not drivers side switch] I would pull the door harness to chassis harness rubber boot, [peel it off the "A" pillar plug, pop the other end into the door and slide the boot down the wires into the door] look for broken leads, [white/yellow and blue/black].
It is a fairly common problem on the drivers door of any car, [as it is the one that is opened and closed the most] we fix this on cars once or twice a month and is always the first thing we check, as it is the easiest to get at. 94
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Re: Integra window switch problems
The power window system in our cars are "Polarity Reversing Ground At Rest", meaning both the leads going to the motors, [red/yellow, red/blue and blue/red, blue/white] are grounds, when everything is plugged in all 4 leads should test as grounds, [full continuity to chassis ground], when switch is rocked for up or down, the ground is "lifted" from one of the leads and 12V+ is supplied to it, the other lead is still a ground.
To test the switch you need to test for both the 12V+ and the ground, the simplest way is with a 12V test light because it has a load, [the light] a multimeter has no load or very little load.
Connect one end of test light to one motor lead, [red/yellow] and the other end to the other lead, [red/blue] rock the switch both ways, [for up and down] the test light should light up both ways, if not, there is a problem with the switch, a problem with the ground input or a problem with the 12V+ input.
In your case, because of low volt readings I would suspect a power issue, because the problem is on the drivers side, [pass. window works from pass. side switch but not drivers side switch] I would pull the door harness to chassis harness rubber boot, [peel it off the "A" pillar plug, pop the other end into the door and slide the boot down the wires into the door] look for broken leads, [white/yellow and blue/black].
It is a fairly common problem on the drivers door of any car, [as it is the one that is opened and closed the most] we fix this on cars once or twice a month and is always the first thing we check, as it is the easiest to get at. 94
To test the switch you need to test for both the 12V+ and the ground, the simplest way is with a 12V test light because it has a load, [the light] a multimeter has no load or very little load.
Connect one end of test light to one motor lead, [red/yellow] and the other end to the other lead, [red/blue] rock the switch both ways, [for up and down] the test light should light up both ways, if not, there is a problem with the switch, a problem with the ground input or a problem with the 12V+ input.
In your case, because of low volt readings I would suspect a power issue, because the problem is on the drivers side, [pass. window works from pass. side switch but not drivers side switch] I would pull the door harness to chassis harness rubber boot, [peel it off the "A" pillar plug, pop the other end into the door and slide the boot down the wires into the door] look for broken leads, [white/yellow and blue/black].
It is a fairly common problem on the drivers door of any car, [as it is the one that is opened and closed the most] we fix this on cars once or twice a month and is always the first thing we check, as it is the easiest to get at. 94
Thanks a lot man, I'll try this out today.
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Re: Integra window switch problems
posting to come back to this for troubleshooting. Im having same problem except the pass window will roll up/down from the drivers switch..
#11
Re: Integra window switch problems
So I buy 90 integra coupe. The first day I bring my passenger side window was woking good. Two day's after the window stop working and I replace the window motor and switch but didn't work. I check the wire with a test light on blue/green that's make window go down that wire are good. Blue/yellow make down and the test light get on so wire are bad that someone tell me. And also my seatbelts stop working too and I replace the seatbelts control unit and still doing same thing.
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