my CRX got dynoed.

134hp@7500rpm
101tq@5600rpm

HP calculator is pretty close:
Car weight with driver - 2220lbs (car without driver - 2051lbs)

16.5lbs per wheel horsepower

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Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, I'm making close to 160hp to the crank (stock engine specs)

Assuming 20% drivetrain loss, I'm making close to 170hp to the crank.
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13.8lbs per crank horsepower for 15% loss, 13.0lbs per crank hp for 20% loss.

I'll scan the dyno in sometime. The torque path stays between 80ft-lbs and 100ft-lbs from 4400rpm-8200rpms.

The hp is above 100hp between 5400rpm-8200rpms.

I revved it to 8500rpm. At 8500, i'm making 120hp/70ft-lbs. Theoretically, I should shift right after 7500rpms since after that, I'm not making anymore power.

Between 7500rpms-8200rpms, the hp stays above 125.

engine mods:
B16A1, cheap dirty air filter, DC Sport 4-2-1 header, B&M FPR set at 42psi, custom exhaust, and a chipped ecu.

Overall, i'm happy with it. I was hoping for at least 140hp... but, considering the wear on the engine (high revving, autocrossing, road events, etc) i guess it makes sense.

 

you are putting up good numbers for an A1, driven. my rex is prolly running around the same, I have the same upgrades. only difference is my car weighs in @ 1955 with me in it.

 

not flaming or hating here, but those numbers seem kind of weak to me, especially with some mods. but i guess ragging on it like you have is accounting for some of that.

my stock zc put out 117whp and 98 ft-lbs. no wonder those two motors are pretty close in 1/4 mi times...

 

Well, if you consider how hard the engine has worked, it's perfectly understandable.

stock, the crank hp is 160hp. the engine is used when i got it with god knows how many miles (20K-40K?). Then, I road race it and autocross it to death. I rev it constantly to 8500rpm and stay in VTEC as long as i possibly can.

plus, the mods aren't really that much. a header isn't worth 10-15hp like people say. an intake is 1-2hp on a dyno. the FPR just helps tuning, making the 160hp more available. the chipped ecu does the same. So, considing wear and tear... and the mods added, it's right around normal.
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and how'd you get your 91 Hf to weight under 1900lbs with a b16? Was this professionally weighed? Do you have a cage? I think my B16 and Cage killed the weight advantage i would have had with a HF.

 

ARE you serious!!! I have the same setup and around the same wear and tear milage. Geez... time for a new motor swap... and I still have the full interior and stereo. Man...

 

maybe I'm high, but I always swore you had installed cams in it at one point?

:mumbling:i need to start taking notes on stuff i read about people's cars online:mumble:

 

 

did you upgrade your valvestrians? 8.5 is kinda high for stock

 

You're right about where you should be, considering the way you drive your car Very nice.

 

I would seriously consider buying a good intake. This could very well be the cause of your low power output. Believe me, this makes a HUGE difference on a B16A. Especially if you are still using the stock airbox.


[Modified by StorminMatt, 12:30 AM 10/5/2002]

 

Wow. With just ITR cams and an ITR intake manifold I made 151 at the wheels through GReddy exhaust on my b16a1. I didn't have an intake either, just a K&N ont he throttle body, which dyno proven <borrowed an intake> lost me 3 HP across the board.

I was using a stock exhaust manifold, too, though.

Trust me, my car DID NOT have an easy life either I shifted the a6 at 7200, and the B16a, I'd rev til the limiter ALL DY EVERY DAY at 8200, then with my Hypertech tuner, I revved it to 8500 ALLLL the time

 

That number is right. I bet if you get some good cams and tune the hell out of the engine, you will get another 10-15 HP to the wheels easy.

 

I also could not help but notcie that you have a custom exhaust. I myself am not a fan of custom exhausts. In 99.999% of cases, they are not done right. They typically have crush bent tubing. Sometimes, they even use the stock tubing to the axle. And they often have a cheap, restrictive, chambered type muffler. You might want to ditch this as well. If you get a good exhaust system and a reputable intake, you could very well be pusing 140+WHP.

 

high horsepower at WOT at 8000rpm isn't benefiting the low-rpm torque that i need...plus, i can't STAND open exhaust 4 cylinders. I have a 3 chamber muffler to quiet the engine and to help improve some low-end push...which helps me power thru slow speed turns.

and yes, it's crush bent!!

 

What ecu is in there. Did you try the stock one. On all the OBD0 electronic cars, the ones we dynoed with a chipped ecu made less power than the stock Pr3 ecu.

J