My drivers side window stopped rolling up or down. The passengers side still worked, so I figured it must be the regulator or the motor, so I replaced them. It didn't work after that, so I figured that it must be the switch. It still doesn't work after replacing the switch. So now I don't know what to do. I checked all the fuses and they are all fine. I can't see any obvious damage to the wires, so now I don't know what to check.

Any ideas on what I could try now, or what else I could check?

 

Does 20A dash fuse 11 have battery voltage to body ground with the key in ON(II)?

Unplug the driver's master switch. Does Blu/Blk wire terminal (A1) in the connector have battery voltage to body ground with the key in ON(II)?

 

Try grabbing the wiring harness that runs from inside the car to the door and wiggle it around while working the window up/down. The harness wires are known for breaking on these cars. Once you have the door open you can grab it. If you have a multimeter there are some voltage checks you can do to better confirm that theory.

 

DITTO. Open the door and pull back the rubber boot and look inside.

 

I'll check those voltages, and check the wires in the door and see what I can find.

 

Ok. I checked. I've got 12 volts at the fuse. (#11).

I checked the harness. I've got 12 volts only at one spot, right here (circled in red)





which, based on this diagram





is A6, or the green/black ignition input. So I should be getting 12 volts at A1 also, right?

 

A6 supplies voltage to the passenger window from fuse 10. A1 supplies voltage to the driver's window from fuse 11. Do both top test tabs of fuse 11 show voltage. If so, the Blu/Blk wire is broken somewhere between fuse 11 and the switch plug in your hand. That's the problem.

 

If you mean both sides of where the fuse plugs in then yes, there's voltage on both.

I've checked under the dash, and in the door, and can't see anywhere it's broken. I know it's possible, but it seems weird that just that one wire would break. Everything else works.

So most likely it's broken in between the door and the body? It seems like that's where it would bend the most, and be most likely to break.

 

With fuse 11 removed and the key in ON(II), only one terminal in the socket should have voltage.

With fuse 11 installed and the key in ON(II), both metal tabs at the top of the fuse should read battery voltage to body ground. Did you do this test?

 

A broken wire is not always obvious. Probe for voltage at various points along the wire by carefully breaking through the wire insulation.

Yes, if fuse 11 has voltage at BOTH top test tabs.

 

Ok, never mind on that one. When I checked at first I pulled the fuse out and tested it, there was 12 volts to one side. I just checked the voltage , with the fuse in on the test tabs, and there's nothing.

So now what should I check?

 

With the key in ON(II)? Click the Test Fuses link in my signature to ensure that you are testing fuse 11 correctly.

 

Ok, it's working now. I don't know why, but this is what happened. I went to test the voltage at the fuse again, just to make sure. I had voltage on both sides of the fuse. (I tested it with a voltmeter, one lead on ground, one on the fuse)

So then I figured I would test the wire. So I poked the lead into the wire just below the connector that goes to the master switch, and there's voltage! So then I'm thinking, why would there be voltage here and not at the switch (there wasn't any voltage at the switch before). So I test the switch again, and there's voltage!?

So it works now. I think maybe from me moving everything around so much that must have done something. I'm still a little worried to put it all back together though, not knowing exactly what was wrong.

 

Well, if the problem pops up again, you know where to start your troubleshooting.