Should I tear up my car to get to floor harness to fix window? (Nubie)
#1
Should I tear up my car to get to floor harness to fix window? (Nubie)
Honda Civic Ex 19996 Sedan
Hey All! I'm new to this site and to dealing with electrical stuff in general.
My passanger window will NOT roll up or down. There is no sound in the motor. I tested the terminal for continuity (fine). Tested for voltage. (fine). Tested the master passanger switch) totally fine. So then, I used jump cables and attached them from the battery to the wires of the window motor. It totally worked. I tested the passanger switch on a rear door. (worked fine).
I know I'm getting voltage from the (GRN/BLACK) cable which carries power to the motor. I thought that maybe it could be a bad ground (so I did all the continuity tests on the master switch, like i said before—fine).
Could a break in the YLWBLU and ORG/BLU wires that carry the electricity back to the master switch and finally to the ground be the reason for my problems? If so, what do I do and how should I test for this?
NOTE: Everything I just explained I've learned over the course of a week from research and trial and error. I downloaded the Honda Civic 1996-2000 Service manual and have read all the relevant material.
I've thought about cleaning the ground wires, but I think they're fine. (All the other windows work... mostly). Plus, the ground wires (551 and 402) are SO HARD TO GET TO! On that note, has anyone removed the A and B-Pillar to access the floor harness? Tips?
Hey All! I'm new to this site and to dealing with electrical stuff in general.
My passanger window will NOT roll up or down. There is no sound in the motor. I tested the terminal for continuity (fine). Tested for voltage. (fine). Tested the master passanger switch) totally fine. So then, I used jump cables and attached them from the battery to the wires of the window motor. It totally worked. I tested the passanger switch on a rear door. (worked fine).
I know I'm getting voltage from the (GRN/BLACK) cable which carries power to the motor. I thought that maybe it could be a bad ground (so I did all the continuity tests on the master switch, like i said before—fine).
Could a break in the YLWBLU and ORG/BLU wires that carry the electricity back to the master switch and finally to the ground be the reason for my problems? If so, what do I do and how should I test for this?
NOTE: Everything I just explained I've learned over the course of a week from research and trial and error. I downloaded the Honda Civic 1996-2000 Service manual and have read all the relevant material.
I've thought about cleaning the ground wires, but I think they're fine. (All the other windows work... mostly). Plus, the ground wires (551 and 402) are SO HARD TO GET TO! On that note, has anyone removed the A and B-Pillar to access the floor harness? Tips?
Last edited by MyTardisIsMyCvc; 02-12-2015 at 01:14 PM.
#2
Re: Should I tear up my car to get to floor harness to fix window? (Nubie)
Simple and may be a dumb question but did you check the harness plug that goes to the door, its in a rubber boot between the body and the door... Sometimes the rubber boot can loosen off and wires can pull out of the harness plug. This video may help: (IF IT IS YOUR DOOR HARNESS)
#3
Re: Should I tear up my car to get to floor harness to fix window? (Nubie)
UPDATE: PROBLEM FIXED.
Thanks MatteBLK for the suggestion! I watched Part 1 and Part 2 of the vidoe serious, where he describes the wiring shematic (Part 1) and then does a bunch of tests (part 2).
In the video (Part 2), he received voltage at the master switch from the ground wire and figured it was a bad connection from on the driver door. I had no voltage coming to my ground wires at the master switch. So, I figured the break was in the passanger door. Totally was.
I ended up taking the door off. I created a pulley in my garage and got the door back on but one of the bolt sockets threads are off (problem 1). The door isn't shutting properly either (problem 2, so next I'm going to see if I can tighten the bolts with the door closed with the fender off, so that it hangs better.
Let me know if you have any suggestiongs
Took the passanger door off its hinges. The ground wires had broken off the door harness plug. Added about a foot of new wire and checked for functionality. My passanger window works now!
Thanks MatteBLK for the suggestion! I watched Part 1 and Part 2 of the vidoe serious, where he describes the wiring shematic (Part 1) and then does a bunch of tests (part 2).
In the video (Part 2), he received voltage at the master switch from the ground wire and figured it was a bad connection from on the driver door. I had no voltage coming to my ground wires at the master switch. So, I figured the break was in the passanger door. Totally was.
I ended up taking the door off. I created a pulley in my garage and got the door back on but one of the bolt sockets threads are off (problem 1). The door isn't shutting properly either (problem 2, so next I'm going to see if I can tighten the bolts with the door closed with the fender off, so that it hangs better.
Let me know if you have any suggestiongs
Took the passanger door off its hinges. The ground wires had broken off the door harness plug. Added about a foot of new wire and checked for functionality. My passanger window works now!
#4
Re: Should I tear up my car to get to floor harness to fix window? (Nubie)
UPDATE: PROBLEM FIXED.
Thanks MatteBLK for the suggestion! I watched Part 1 and Part 2 of the vidoe serious, where he describes the wiring shematic (Part 1) and then does a bunch of tests (part 2).
In the video (Part 2), he received voltage at the master switch from the ground wire and figured it was a bad connection from on the driver door. I had no voltage coming to my ground wires at the master switch. So, I figured the break was in the passanger door. Totally was.
I ended up taking the door off. I created a pulley in my garage and got the door back on but one of the bolt sockets threads are off (problem 1). The door isn't shutting properly either (problem 2, so next I'm going to see if I can tighten the bolts with the door closed with the fender off, so that it hangs better.
Let me know if you have any suggestiongs
Took the passanger door off its hinges. The ground wires had broken off the door harness plug. Added about a foot of new wire and checked for functionality. My passanger window works now!
Thanks MatteBLK for the suggestion! I watched Part 1 and Part 2 of the vidoe serious, where he describes the wiring shematic (Part 1) and then does a bunch of tests (part 2).
In the video (Part 2), he received voltage at the master switch from the ground wire and figured it was a bad connection from on the driver door. I had no voltage coming to my ground wires at the master switch. So, I figured the break was in the passanger door. Totally was.
I ended up taking the door off. I created a pulley in my garage and got the door back on but one of the bolt sockets threads are off (problem 1). The door isn't shutting properly either (problem 2, so next I'm going to see if I can tighten the bolts with the door closed with the fender off, so that it hangs better.
Let me know if you have any suggestiongs
Took the passanger door off its hinges. The ground wires had broken off the door harness plug. Added about a foot of new wire and checked for functionality. My passanger window works now!
You're quite the go-getter dude. My lazy *** would've given up or put some manual cranks in.
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