I am completely new to the Honda world, but I needed a gas saver because my Yukon is killing me on gas costs. So I jumped on CL and found a running 89 CRX. The only thing needed to make this lil beast road worthy is A/C(I live in TX). So far:
- Attached the r134a adapters.
- Vacuumed out the system.
- Small leak detected.
- Flushed out all the lines, condenser, evaporator.
- Replaced all O-rings.
- Still small leak.
- Poured in some UV PAG46 and a can of r134a.
- The system holds the pressure.
- A/C controls kick on the blower, but all hot air.
- Compressor clutch doesn't engage.

Did some investigating....
- Condenser Fan fuse blown.
- Checked the fan, screw stuck between fan blade and radiator.
- Fan hangin off the motor. I NEED A NEW FAN
- Condenser fan Noise Filter, FRIED and MELTED. Pics: Fried, Fried Insides

Here's what I need...
- A/C wiring diagram. Thanks to zrickety, found here: spoonertuner.com/manuals

 

this is for the 91, but most of the colors should be the same


you can also find manuals at hondahookup.com and spoonertuner.com/manuals

 

Thanks zrickety! I didn't know the 91 and 89 are virtually the same.

 

Turns out, the fired relay is actually the "noise filter" from the wiring diagram. Anyone know if there's an aftermarket one that doesn't cost ~$50??? How do I insert an image into this posting???

 

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mine was fried too. the shop that did my AC work just bypassed that relay

 

I did some more work on the A/C today. I unplugged the fried "noise filter", unplugged the condenser fan, and turned on the A/C switch. The Condenser Fan fuse(15A) blew. Here's the question I have:
Does the Condenser Fan fuse pictured below= No.38 on the wiring diagram???

 

Anyone???

 

Yes.


Hardwire your condenser fan direct to battery and make sure it works.
Sounds like the motor is burnt out and is shorting to ground... and taking everything electrical out with it.

And I see you put PAG in it.
You may want to evacuate the system again and replace your fliter/dryer and remove your compressor and manually pour out all the oil you can from it.
Filter/dryer collects oil as does the compressor.
R134 PAG oil is not compatible with R12 Ester oil.

Go around and tighten all your hose fittings too - there are like 8 or them?!?!
You are actually 'supposed' to replace the o-rings at every connection when converting to R134 because the R12 o-rings will leak R134 on a molecular level.
A slow leak, but a leak none the less. Since you already have a leak you might as well change them out... they are cheap.

 

Thanks 4drEF!
I pulled out the fan this past weekend and the fan is melted off the motor. So here's my theory from what I found....
1) A bolt fell in between the condenser fan and radiator.
2) The fan motor got hot, melted the fan off.
3) Bc the stuck fan(heavy load), the circuit got fried.
So now back to the junkyard I got to get the fan I stashed away ;-). I am also rebuilding the noise filter.

 

I rebuilt the noise filter and harness.

 

This is a more general question to anyone. I have a 91 civic sedan with all the A/C components. I just pulled everything out with the intention of flushing them and buying a new compressor, expansion valve, and dryer. But, I'm wondering if this is worth it for the R134a. The consensus seems to be that the retrofit won't last long because the system was designed for R12 originally.

 

If you evacuate and fill properly then it's not an issue.

R12 and R134 are very similar in thermal properties so the expansion valve isn't really necessary... but it's not expensive either so if you are at the point of doing it then it's up to you.

The oil is the main concern of the conversion. R12 used an oil that isn't compatible with the new gasses so you can damage the system if you don't use the right stuff.

 

Update:
I plugged in a new 15A fuse, plugged in the rebuilt harness, turned on the A/C, and turned the blower to high. No blown fuse this time around! Making progress now. Gotta get the condenser fan and replace the high side valve core. Then I can fill the system with freon and see if it kicks on...

 

Update:
I replaced the high side valve core and pulled a vacuum on the system, still a slow leak. I can't hear any hissing nor see any UV spots. Is there any way to test the individual components for leaks?
BTW, 4drEE, I flushed out all the lines and condenser before I put in the new PAG oil. When I initially blew air through the lines, puffs of dust came out. So I am assuming all the old oil, if any, dried up. If not, then I flushed it anyway.

 

Where were you able to find the relays that you rewired. Mine are burnt up and need to do the same thing