Posting for a buddy of mines.

Swapped in a '99 complete B18B1 in a '98 ek hatch w/ y7 harness few months ago. He recently decided to fix the check engine codes, did some research seemed fairly easy to fix the light all you had to do was swap two sensors from a ls harness to the y7. Swapped out crank position sensor with a LS harness plug to fit the plug on the ls crank. problem came during the 2nd and final sensor swap, which was the IAT sensor on the intake manifold.. i was told there would be a extra wire not needed (orange knock sensor) during the splicing and sodering the 3 exposed IAT wires touched not sure which ones or how many or to where but i hear the fuel kick in as you would when you turn your key in the ignition, thought it was werid at the time but didnt think much of it til i finished up with the sensor and went to crank the car there was no fuel when you turn the key to the 2nd on position and when you crank the car all the way it cranks but doesnt fire....i checked fuel pump fuse and every other fuse i could think of and nothing was blown..what could be the problem?!

 

Link used

http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98.jpg

 

ttt

 

The electrical short may have fried the ECU. Remove it for inspection.

 

how would you be able to tell if a ecu is fried or not? any other possiblities?

 

There's no specific electrical tests for a bad ECU.

 

just swapped ecus with another obd2 ls ecu and still having the same problem?...

 

see if someone has another ecu. i had two wires touch when doin my b18b swap n it fried the ecu

 

Have you checked hood fuse 44 and dash fuse 13?

 

yes all was in perfect condition checked almost every fuse in car and nothing was blown.

 

What method did you use to check those two fuses?

Is the G101 ground wire on the thermostat housing clean and tight?

 

just inspected it for disconnnections and color and all grounds are good it cranked fine after hooking up the CPS it happened after working on the second sensor.

 

Click the Fuses link in my signature. Use a test light (or better a multimeter) to check for voltage to body ground at BOTH top tests tabs of fuse 44, 31, and 13.

Is there good spark at the plugs?

 

also i plugged a obd2 reader it couldnt read the ecu constantly said connection error but the obd2 reader wasnt all that great either buddy got it for like $40 i think so i didnt know if it was a reliable read and respond..

 

Was this true for both the original ECU and the swapped one? If so, start by checking hood fuse 43 using the method I mentioned.

Is there spark at the plugs?

 

originally there was 3 engine check codes and obd reader did work in the beginning connected the CPS and deleted 2 codes and one code was left. hooked up the second sensor and obd reader started reading "connection error"

 

I think this is information you've already covered. Do the fuse and spark tests I mentioned.

 

ended up being a fuse..smh..thanks for all the assistance so far but i have one more issue i am not able to get the sencond sensor going no matter what i do PO112 code still comes up and i did as the link said on hooking up the IAT sensor

 

Make sure no sensor connectors are swapped. Then test the IAT sensor wires for a short or open.