so for the record ive gotten most of this info from this page: https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine-management-tuning-124/neptune-demon-vs-hondata-s300-2594601/


is it really required to run an electronic boost controller? or can a solenoid just be ran with boost by gear? this is something i have not yet covered and am in the market to get a boost controller or a solenoid. i have my doubts about running an electric and just running a solenoid instead, and insight?

 

Both the boost by gear feature and other electronic boost controller is that they both use "solenoids" in order to control the wastegate so that boost pressure can be increased. The question is really a matter of what you plan to use the car for. Circuit and road racers don't really need boost by gear because lower boost pressures are used and at the most a "scramble" boost feature is best used. They also have a "gain" feature that helps with the responsiveness of turbochargers that can alter their characteristics up to about 300rpms give or take. They are also good for when weather changes and the air density on a cold day may cause a boost spike, you can simply reduce the gain and boost pressure to compensate, instead of having an entire laptop make the changes for you.

For street / strip applications and those that feel they can't use their brain much, Boost by gear is an option used via Hondata in order to use 1st & 2nd gear without overboosting and breaking the tires loose.

The GReddy/ APexi electronic controllers use on type of solenoid, while the AEM EMS and Hondata use MAC solenoids. They are different in kind and type.

 

street, little strip. in a nutshell?

 

Its up to you which one you use based upon your engine management, type of racing, and how you plan to use increases in boost pressure.

 

That shows to be a forsale page

 

fixed


i plan to never run no more than 15 psi, this is a dd car and i am running neptune.


oh and btw, i ended up getting a borg warner s360 for my turbo selection.

 

well, for such a large turbo, (A BW S360 non-ett) at 15psi is just scratching the surface of boost pressure for such a large turbo. Again, its up to you if you want to go through the laptop, be in the engine bay, or the cabin of the car. For that low of a setup, there's no need for one unless you plan on increasing pressure. there's no best here.

 

there may be no best in this situation, but what is the safest? c'mon, honesty against honesty.


on a side note, i was happy to hear that the b/w had anywhere from 44 to 46 pulses(if im correct) per lb of psi on gas mixture and after that, there was a 20% increase of volume when e85 was used. i might have this a tad mixed up, but i was interested to hear about that.

 

I don't hide things, and I'll tell ya like I see it. Personally, I like electronic solenoids because of their ability to control minute aspects of the wastegate and allow for changes in pressure and changes in the characteristics of the turbo itself, unlike a ball/spring manual. BUT, having said that, depending on the use, there's nothing wrong with a good ole' ball/spring, especially if you don't plan to make many changes to boost pressure. Set it.. and forget it.

So again, at this point, as long as you don't get a cheap ball/spring manual boost controller (Stick with Hallman) ALL WILL WORK.

 

Running a solenoid is already considered an "electronic" boost controller. To run boost by gear, you need the solenoid. The software offers the ability to do a fixed boost level with or without closed loop feature, or boost by gear, or boost by vehicle speed.

I personally like running a separate electronic boost controller, like the APEXi AVCR... The response time and the spool characteristics can be finely tuned with the higher end Japanese EBC's... The chipped OBD-I Honda type software (ECTune, Hondata or Neptune) just doesn't have the resolution I want to control a responsive turbo setup IMO. Good for drag racing and most street driving, but not what I like when reaching the limits of traction, or hitting the throttle mid corner.