hi i have a p28 ecu that i wanna try and use to run a stock d15b but the problem is its been chipped and doesn't have a chip but seem to have been running the car it was in thats what i was told

ok well can it work like stock after its been chipped cause im just trying to save buying a chip for a stock car cause ill just save it for a build later im not looking to mod this car its my gas saver

 

Yes

As shown in your picture below, with the jumper removed from J1, the ECU will run in it's stock configuration.



If you want to run it with a chip in the future all you will have to do is place a jumper/connector to join those to pins.

You can use a PC desktop computer jumper like this one;

 

thanx man you was alot of help i look foward to dealing with you in the future

 

I think a stock P28 will probably run your motor a little rich though as it is for 1.6L

 

thats the ecu that was in there to begin with d15b vtec maybe i can get a chip to run it but that will be later and thanx ghost it works although i had starting issues cause batt was low and two pins on the ecu was bent but i fixed all that

the problem with the original ecu was that it wasn't supply the ground for the pump to prime is there a joint or cap that i can replace to fix this or is the ecu thrash now

 

thats probably why it idles so low when its warm

 

You could check the solder points on the old ECU, provided none of the pins are actually broken off in the connector.

 

all the pins are there just isn't given a ground when ign is on to primr the pump

 

ok update well the new ecu works and runs the car flawlessly

but now when i let it sit for like 6 hours and tried again it stall a bit on priming the pump im getting fustrated could there be something burning up the ecu causing the issue car been running for 8 yrs no problem i did do a headgasket change but i put all the plugs back in the right spot

 

Have you done any sort of voltage tests on the ignition switch or main relay?

On the main relay you want to check the wiring between he power source ECU pin A25/B1 to pin6 on the main relay. And the ground from Pin1 on the main relay to pin A7 on the ECU? That is drive circuit for the FLR - Fuel pump relay.

To test the fuel relay on the PGM-FI main relay itself you need to;
• Apply battery (+) to pin6
• Apply battery (-) to pin1
• Test for continuity between pin5 & pin4

• If there is continuity the relay is good
• If there is not, replace the relay (or do the DIY and fix the cold/cracked solder joints)

 

yea i checked the main relay 1st b4 i made the thread and it passed the test then i checked the main relay harness and again it passed

im going to check the ground again on the ecu pin but like i said the original ecu wont run the car no more and the new one will but now its showing the same signs that the problem is still there which making me think there is a problem in the harness or something is burning out the ecu

 

Main relay bypass: Bypassing the main relay to get the car running. A few have asked how to bypass the main relay. Simply remove the main relay from the harness connector and short the three terminals on the wire harness connector together and turn the ignition switch to start. Here are the terminals.

First generation relay: Battery(1) fuel pump(7) and ECU/injectors (3).
Second generation relay: Battery(7) fuel pump(4) and ECU/injectors (6).
Acura Legend and TL: Battery(1) fuel pump(7) and ECU/injectors (3).

WARNING: Do not short the battery power (+) to terminal 8 (or terminal 1 for the 95-97 Civic) on the wire harness connector or there may be an internal ECU damage.

The following test is for most Accords, mainly for the Accord 88-94 and for the Acura or for most generic main relays.

Step 1: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.4 terminal (for the Accord) or No.6 (for the Acura) and the battery negative to the No.8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No.5 terminal and No.7 terminal of the main relay.

* If there is continuity, go to step 2.
* If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.


ECU pinout[IMG][/IMG]

 

....

 

Problem: Won't start, the relay won't click and no fuel pump sound.

Solution: Follow the steps below to check the power supply.

1. Disconnect the main relay from the connector. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red probe to terminal 1. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the ECU fuse.

mainrelayterminals [1. Late model Honda/Acura 2. Acura Legend and TL 3. Civic/Accord/CRX/Prelude/Integra]
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red probe to terminal 5. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the fuse or the ignition switch.
3. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red probe to terminal 1. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the ignition switch or the fuse(s.) Turn the ignition switch off.

* If all checks fail then go back to step 1. But instead of using terminal 2, use body ground. If all checks pass then the ground is faulty.
* If all checks pass then the main relay, ECU or fuel pump may be faulty. Continue with main relay bench test.

 

today I went to a friend that works on hondas that's a mechanic and we opened up the bad ecu to see there is a burnt spot at capacitor c19 and then i took out the replacement ecu and realized that they both are getting damaged at the same location because it wasn't damage there before so now another guy told me it could be the distributor(coil) that is causing the issue frying the ecu and the mechanic says i should just put in a new relay anyways and either change the distributor or coil and see if the problem is fixed cause its has to be something between either the ign/main and computer or the computer and distributor

whats your opinion's?

 

i just looked at the ecu pin out and the cap 19 capacitor goes into both d19,d20 which are

D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
?

and also pins d2,d6 near c19 was also burnt but im not sure if this is from the cap heating up or they was getting bad voltage

D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a

 

after researching the chassis wire in the haynes book it looks like d19,20 is coming from the map and tps sensors

so can these sensors take out a ecu when they go bad

 

not really...but when you mix the TPS and MAP connectors you never know what will happen....they use the same connectors

 

i hear you but im 100 percent sure those connectors aren't mixed up besides i've been running fine for 1yr b4 this problem started

 

to my knowledge the termostat is the only place i see where the engine harness grounds itself is there any other place on the block that the ecu or the engine harness has a ground, other than the tranny vc ground

 

well the problem still persist to cause me problem the replacement ecu is burnt in the same place i repaired them both but now i noticed that when it wasn't working that i can shift the car into reverse or drive without depressing the brakes and i had a blown fuse dont remember which one. so does anyone know if there is a component between the brake swicth and ign/ecu that could go bad and burn my ecu

i dont wanna buy another ecu