OK so i finally got ahold of a hoist, and dropped the motor into my 1991 STD ef hatch.

i bought some noname b series to ef motor mounts.

i already had the tranny mount bolted on, and i eventually got the mount bolted into the chassis.
then it was on to the driver side, but i noticed the mount looked weird.


It seemed the actual mount itself has cocked more towards the front of the car, making it almost impossible to bolt up correctly.

Well, i came up with a decent solution for now, but dont know how long it will hold up.

I got ahold of a 92 DA driver mount, and had to grind down the metal sleeve where the bolt slides through, to get it to fit in the mounting location.

well after some prying, and some shifting around i finally got the driver side DA mount bolted up solidly.

but now the motor has a slight forward lean, and is a little bit higher on the driver side.

I DO NOT have any clearance for the 4-1 stainless header i bought.
and im afraid i might have to do the half radiator and slimfan setup

but i also noticed that we tore a little bit of the rubber in the DA integra mount while putting it in.

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW I CAN HELP POSITION THE MOTOR A LITTLE BIT BETTER??

 

buy the right mounts.
your combination of no name and modified integra mounts is going to cost you more in the end...

 

Did you remember to swap out the actual bracket that the mount sits on? It should only have 1 bolt on it. If your bracket has 2 bolts, then it's the wrong one.


Should NOT look like this...

 

Ok to answer your question about the post mount.
There are three bolts that hold this mount to the block, and there are two mounting bolts for the actual motor mount

 

yes, did you make sure to use one from a 90-93 DA?

 

from what i told yes, and from what i saw, and compared.

 

BUMP!!
i have another question to ask.

i saw that place racing has a package where you have to drill out the spot welds and weld in that driver side mount.

why dont other mounts require this?
does it need to be done?
i may just go ahead and order hasport mounts! are they a complete drop in DIY with no hassle?

 

there a few efs on here with crooked engine, i lucked out mine sits level.
did you check for clearance for the cross member with your header?

 

here are some pics so some of you can see how bad it is. maybe it is just me and it being my first swap, but damn!!




and here is the DA integra mount, and the supposed "DA POST MOUNT"



TOP picture. DA radiator not even test fitted



thought the intake mani was supposed to be further back??

 

looks fine to me

 

The again that's an LS and I also have a 4-1 header that needs to be installed.

 

both b series and my 4-1 i had to notch the crossmember

 

Everything looks fine to me. If the engine didn't "lean forward" it wouldn't clear your hood. Also the intake and everything else looks how it should, you are just a n00b.

As always, you have to notch the stock crossmembers for the exhaust on these swaps - but a 4-1 typically doesn't work. You are better off getting a traction bar for swaps in my opinion. This is what I do for every one I have ever done (typically just build my own it's stronger and more "tunable").

 

well i figured it was me bein in experienced for my first swap i did by myself lol.
it just stumped me.

does anyone have a reference pic that i can use to notch the crossmember?
and i had originally planned to do a cross member change, but ran out of funds at the time.

i found this just on a quick search on google
http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/TBS.html

doesnt seem like a bad price, but is there any way i can do this later on down the road when i get more funds?

as of now i am trying to "Do it Right" and get it running at the same time...
I have been taking my time with this "build" as it has now been 2 1/2 months since i first got the motor, and aquired bits and pieces here and there.

If i use a similar traction bar setup, can i keep my OEM radiator, and the mounting location?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Avid-...Q5fAccessories

here is another one i found

 

Yes, of course you can change it to traction bar later. Personally I am not sure I would try to run the 4-1 headers. They are 4 to 1 right not 4-2-1 ??? If you want, to use them I suggest taking the crossmember off and putting the header on. Then notching and test fitting as you go. Be sure to weld the layers of steel back together when you are all done.

 

yea the header is a 4-1.
i had heard a MUGEN 4-1 header fits without notching the crossmember, but i dont have that kind of money just for a header.

this one i got for $135.

if i can sell a broken down Ford explorer of mine, i might order a reputably traction bar setup.

now should i have installed the header on the motor before i put it in, or is there some way i can slide and move it around to fit.

the header is a one piece by the way..

 

Yes, ALL 4-1 headers are 1 piece - it's only some of the 4-2-1 that bolt together (factory too obviously). Personally I always install the exhaust before I put it in the crossmember. I have no idea what yours is/ looks like so I couldn't tell you if it will or won't fit by notching the crossmemeber. You could try it, worst case scenario you will HAVE to order a traction bar.