hey guys, i have a 94 gsr that i'm trying to up the compression a little bit without touching the block. After doing some research i've figure i'd try changing the head gasket out for a buddy club .5mm head gasket. but havent found anyone that have used it before. just curious if any one has used this head gasket? cons and pro's?

other things i've thought about was shaving the p72 head alittle. i dont want to get carried away where i would need to get cam gears to adjust the timing. so pretty much just curious much can i take off before it will affect timing?

next thing i was think was getting some supertech flat face valves.

if i read right the stock compression on the b18c1's are 10.4:1, the flat face valves would raise it .2, the .5 mm buddy club gasket is the same as a two layer head gasket so that would raise it aout .2 and depending on how much i can take off the head could raise it by a a few tenths also.

just want some inputs if this is a good idea or not. or if any of you guys have tried it before.

 

i feel shaving a head is a last resort. i'd do pistons well before that.

 

no dont shave it. ive always heard from builders any shave and u have to run gears. and ur making the timing belt path shorter. the flat valves with the single layer head gasket will be atleast 10.8:1 and maybe as high as 11.4:1 thats a pretty decent jump. i hope that ur gonna get it tuned also.

 

b18c1 are 10:1 the best thing is to do itr pistons...or shave head .030 and do the 2 layer headgasket and flat valve should put u around 11.2 :1...but that will limit the cams that you can run to take advantage of the compression increase...

 

Buddyclub headgasket worked great on my c1 it didnt leak at the corners like napa gaskets tend to do. No cons besides the price tag.

 

I have personally ran Spoon, BC, and Mugen HG's. They all worked fine.

 

Doesn't a thinner head gasket effect the cam timing just like shaving the head?

 

Yes. Youre bringing the cams closer to the crank either way. Id run thinner a HG before I milled the head. Once its milled, theres no going back.

 

I would run a 1 layer HG... and Flat face valves... thats about as far as I would go... if I wasn't to do pistons. Milling the head is a no no to me.

 

[QUOTE=sowellman88011;45480371]no dont shave it. ive always heard from builders any shave and u have to run gears. and ur making the timing belt path shorter. QUOTE]


i have never heard this before

thats what the timing belt tention pulley is for.

 

SamHonda, You obviously have no understanding of how the timing belt times the cams....

If you did, you'd have never made this statement.

OP...how much compression are you trying to get out of these modifications?

 

Moving your cam gears closer to the crank will cause them to roll backwards a little. The tensioner pulls all the slack to the opposite side causing there to be more belt after the crank, and less belt before. This will retard both your intake and exhaust cams. Now if you had adjustable tensioners on both sides, you could distribute equal amounts of slack on both sides keeping the cam timing the same. Of course it would be nightmare trying to get it "right".

 

i'm trying to get as close as possible to 10.8 if possible.

yes i am tuned on crome, mods are 3 inch intake with v-stack, hytech rep header, no cat and full exhaust, blox intake manifold, hondata thermal intake and tb gasket, 9.5 flywheel, innovate lc1 wide band.

 

FWIW, when I bought my C1 it had us itr pistons and .040" off the head. Manifold was ported, 64 mm throttle body. Otherwise stock internally, untuned with 98 itr header and N1 catback. I never got a chance to dyno it before I tore it apart but it ran like a raped goose. This was ~99, it would have been an animal with some new-school engine mgmt on it.

itr pistons are a killer mod with this head.

 

dont wana mess with the block yet. bump any more input?

 

There is no magic trick, CR don't pop out of nowhere.
Everything have been said already.