i have a 89 crx si now and im almost done with my mini me swap i converted it to obd1 with a p28 ecu and im three wires away from finishing it but i have no clue where to find the 3 left. they are the intake air bypass signal, knock sensor signal, and service check signal. im using a zerg industries obd0 to obd1 conversion harness any information on the three things left to wire would help, thanks.

 

ok the the reason whyi couldnt find the knock sensor or bypass sensor is because the motor dosnt have one should have done more research before that last post, now i have a new problem the car is running a little slugish now im pretty sure the distributer is off a little and needs to be adjusted i have a timing light but the haynes book isnt to clear on the process anyone know how to use a timing light on a d16 motor?

 

Try a little bit more research on the timing light
Youll find it

 

all i can find is the basics hook the timing light to the number 1 spark plug jump the brown wire and white/green wire for the timing adjustment and point the timing light at the crank pulley and that the pulley should have 4 colored marks on it that seems easy enough but im not seeing any marks on the pulley except for the tdc white mark on the inside rim of the pulley by the bolt.

 

Hey Lance. Having / had identical problems as you. I completed my head swap with extra wires (Boomslang harness instructions were great and specifically mentioned that there would be unused wires).

During the timing of my car, I noticed no such timing marks either. I simply stuck my oil dipstick in cyl 1, endured the piston was TDC and the cam pulley was up, and after it fired right up!

When I took the car for a spin, it seemed a bit sluggish to me too. Hopefully, that is as far as our similarities go - I noticed oil on the pavement after my ride only to discover that the peeps whom I bought my rebuilt z6 head did not include the cam seal on the cam shaft!!!

The story gets worse though: My neighbor, who is a mechanic saw me prepping to do this simple, quick, job and wanted to help. When finished, I whipped out my trusty torque wrench to torque the cam bolts to spec - the point in which he promptly starts to berate me stating that tightening them by hand would be perfectly fine for the moment.

Well... he tightened them TOO tight, my cam shaft / pulley were stuck, the timing belt skipped, and currently I have a dead car. The moral? A sluggish whip is better than a dead one

 

very true sorry to hear that tomorrow im going to mark where my timings at so ill be able to go back to the current position so at least ill be able to drive it but hopefully its just a hair off and ill figure it out i only notice it when i get on it and it feels and sounds like its lugging, but good luck on fixing yours hope you get it back on the road soon

 

Me too. When you find out what's got you bogged, share - I might need that info after I get rolling.

 

when I timed my d15 I had problems seeing the marks aswell. Just go toward a darker place like in the shade if your outside. I found it hard to do in the sun. Just gotta look for it.

 

I got this answer from a guy that has been helping me in another thread

 

Yes the engine turned out to be on the retarded side of timing, if you have an inductive timing light and the correct marks and the harmonic balancer its a simple timing fix to get it close enough. but if anyone runs into the same problem i had which was that my pulley didnt have any timing marks then you can mark your distributer so you have a base to come back to and then just loosen the bolts and give it a turn tighten the bolts back and test drive it. thats what i ended up doing and now it drives with just a slight lug if your pushing it but operates just fine for normal driving. Im going to get a new pulley and adjustable cam gear to set the timing correctly and also it should be set to 18 degrees btdc unless your under the hood lable says other wise ive seen 16btdc on newer hondas, thanks all for the help and i hope this last bit of info helps as well if i left anything out or was wrong about something then more info is always a plus

 

A6 block and z6 head is not a mini me. No bump in compression and no cam gear adjustment need to be made

 

How is the a6 z6 not a mini me? just curious because its the first time ive heard that.

 

so untrue. what do you think the mini-me swap is? please enlighten me.