So...

My girlfriend has a 1994 Civic EX with a JDM d16a engine. Ever since she got the engine swap, it has had a CEL. I pulled the code today, and it is "Code 9 No. 1 cylinder position (CYP)". I replaced the distributor with a new one (reman), but still no luck. The maintenance manual says to do some troubleshooting with an "ECU test harness", but I do not have one. Hoping you honda gurus can shed some light on the problem.

Thanks!

 

Resistance across the orange and white wires on the new distributor is just over .400. There is no continuity on either wire on the plug from the ecu. I don't have a test harness to check the resistance there iaw the maintenance manual. Can I just crank the engine with the plug disconnected and see if there is any voltage coming from the ecu across those wires? Will that fry anything?

 

you wont fry anything with a Multimeter. The sensor is in the Dizzy, but it can easily be a pin. Just check the continuity between the plug and the ECU with a multimeter. if its bad you can always run a new wire and splice it into the harness, or repair the wire by finding the break and splicing around it.

 

I bought a better multimeter today and re-tested everything. There is continuity on the white wire from the ecu, no continuity on the orange, and the resistance over them is .900. I'm assuming it is out of range because I'm testing at the plug and not at a test harness near the ecu. So...it doesn't look like there is a break or short. The last thing on the flowchart is to swap in a known good ecu. Which sucks because I don't have one...

One thing I was thinking is maybe the d16a motor is the culprit? I don't think the mechanic did anything more than hook up the new motor where the stock one was. Anyone know any peculiarities of the d16a in a 94 ex that might cause this issue? Or is it a 100% direct replacement for the d16z6 I think it was?

 

Oh I did measure the voltage across the orange and white wires while my gf cranked it a couple seconds. Couldn't find any measurable voltage, but I don't know if that is a problem. Sure seems like it would be.

Thanks for the response!

 

I double-checked the engine code and it's actually a d16a motor, not a b16a (the D looked like a B). I changed all references in my posts accordingly. That explains why I couldn't find anything on the non-existant b-series sohc motor. Sorry, I'm a mitsubishi guy myself. the only engine designation I normally care about is 4g63 lol.

 

Its a D16A? So its a JDM motor. Idk anything about a D16A itself, since I've never seen or heard of one of those. Since the JDM civics came with D15's and the 1.6 motors were "ZC". Did you check the pinouts to the dizzy wiring and check it from the harness by the ECU to the dizzy wiring?

 

I'll check that after work today, but I think all the wires are running from the stock harness and ecu. Yes it's a jdm engine. It has just over 100km marked on the valve cover.

 

Well its obviously a JDM engine, because only JDM engines dont have a # after the Letter Subseries Designation. I'm just trying to figure out what car its out of.

 

Oic, I'm not versed in the alphabet soup so I didn't know that

 

Got side tracked installing the gf's stereo/amp/subs she ordered. Now back to the less fun stuff...

So I shorted the cyp wires at the distributor plug and checked for continuity at the ecu plug and it beeped. No continuity with either wire when the plug was not shorted. Checked mechanical timing and the marks are perfect at tdc. ignition is timed to the middle timing mark. Seems the only thing left is the ecu unless someone knows anything else I should try first. I already cleaned out both the idle valves because it was hunting for idle (now fixed). The voltage is at a steady 14v+ so the alternator is not the issue either.

Assuming I do need a new ecu, anyone know of a good source for remans? Autozone can get one but it's about $300. I already spent $200 on a distributor I didn't need, so I really don't want to make another mistake like that. I was so sure the problem was with the distributor that I turned my old one in to avoid the $90 core charge, so I'm stuck with it :-(

 

I had that issue it was my ecu it will go out its very rare but will happen the car will run normal and all but the ecu is throwing the code not the distributor.

 

Alright. I found one on CL for $80 and I'm planning on picking it up tonight. Hopefully it will work.

 

The damn ecu had been converted to auto lol. After I fixed that, no more codes :-)

 

Converted to automatic? I never even knew that was possible. Are you sure it wasn't just an auto ECU?

 

Old thread.