I have a spare b16 that I want to rebuild on the side for next summer as my first rebuild. I wanted to put an ls crank and rods but after searching I saw that I need custom pistons and the new wrist pin location isn't ideal for the oil control rings. Same thing with an ITR and GSR crank.


So from what I saw my options are b17 crank and rods, but I don't think the outcome is worth the trouble and price.

I could also sell my block and find a GSR block, I think LS crank and rods drop in without too much modification, and a 1.9 is nice, but I will consider this option only if there is nothing else I can do with the b16 block exept the b17 crank.

I have only the b16 longblock for now, reason I want the extra torque is this engine will go in a Da integra, 150 kg heavier than an EF, what would you do?

 

sell the b16 block and get yourself a b20 block.
The only practical options for the b16 block are the b16 and b17 crank. Like you said, not really worth it.
B20 block or at the very least a b18 block....

 

Good old b20vtec huh, damn near everybody here at the track runs one, and no one knows anything or has ever switched crank/rods. That's what is so tempting about going a different route, but then again if everyone does it its for a reason.
Thanks for the response

 

you can run both LS or GSR cranks in a B16A block but IMO it's not really worth the extra $ required to get custom pistons.

my favorite setup lately for a budget is a B20 block with GSR crank/rods and some cast ITR-like pistons from fjdistributors.

 

I used to run a LS crank in a B18C block. Simple mod, just watch out for your oil squirters. You may have to block them off. Its good for a bump in displacement. Id just skip a level and go with the b20 block.
2.0L and larger are the most fun IMO.

 

i have ran the squirters with a ls crank on alot of setups. just bend them over... very carefully.

 

interesting, and what would be the advantage of running that crank over the 89mm one in a b20/vtec?

 

The LS and B20 use the same 89mm stroke. that's why its so interesting. It may be only 81mm-81.5mm for pistons, (as opposed to 84mm), but it'll make great torque.

 

a stroker B16A running an LS crank, B16A length rods and custom pistons will have a fatter power curve than the same bore/stroke on a B18 or B20.

 

I have tried running them once with a LS crank in a GSR block years ago. Upon initial assembly, everything cleared by at least .050". After running it for a while, i started to develop this strange tick in the bottom end.
Eventually I dropped the pan and found 2 of the 4 squirters had somehow touched the counterweights and were being pushed up. Then the piston skirt pushed it back down, eventually breaking them off.
After researching the topic, Ive found some people have no problems running squirters with 89 cranks and others had problems like myself...I guess I didnt bend them to the exact correct position. But again, they all cleared just fine on initial assembly so IDK...

my 2 cents.

 

Exact same thing happened to me. turning it by hand doesn't replicate the lateral vibration and movement associated with higher rpm loads. As a matter of safety, one should just remove them and not guess if they are bent correctly.

 

yeah, that's the conclusion I came up with also. I wish someone would produce a slimmer oil squirter with a smaller nozzle that would work w/o any clearance issues at all.
Oh well. Lesson learned