so i'm pretty sure I have a slight rod knock in one cylinder at idle, sound goes away with an increase in RPM. Brand new rebuilt D series, crank was within factory specs so I only had it polished and purchased standard sized main and rod bearings from clevite..oil pressure is perfect, what can I do to fix this with motor installed?? I'm thinking maybe I mistorqued this one rod which could have lead to this issue...should I go with one size larger? or get the standard size again and make sure its properly torqued..lets also bear in mind that I have yet to drop my oil pan to see whats really cookin' in there and that this is all based upon sound and the opinion of myself and a performance engine builder who I brought the car to today to listen to..

 

Man, this is scary! I keep seeing problems with fresh motors! I'm doing my first build right now and it's really stressful second guessing myself (clearances, cleanliness, etc). Why do you think you mistorqued the rod??

When you find out what the issue is, please post the information. I might be able to learn from your experience. It seems like you've got the right idea though. If I heard a knock, I'd probably have to drop the pan to check it out.

 

Did u check the bearing clearances? Not every Honda motor comes out of factoy with standard size bearings

 

i did not check the clearances as i was under the impression that everything would be copesetic given I used stock specs on everything. also the issue only appears to be affecting only 1 cylinder, i will have more info once i drop the pan....if it is only the one cylinder.......what should i do?

 

I hoped you stopped driving the car
What else did u use stock specs on?

I would recommend checking all your bearings. Your cranking probably needs machining.
There's a list of things that need to be checked to be safe

 

what is it lately with people installing bearings without checking clearances? good lord

 

makes me wonder about other things, gaping and clocking the rings, pistons installed the right way, etc etc

 

That the whole idea of "blue printing" instead of just throwing it together.

 

Well, the only thing I didn't do off that list is gap the rings. I'm trusting that the machine shop did that for me correctly (I asked them to). But I clocked them, made sure bigger valve reliefs on intake side, checking clearances (waiting on red rod bearings for my eagle rods), etc. So hopefully mine comes out alright.

To OP - You're probably going to have to disassemble the motor and fix what was is damaged, then rebuild again. I know it sucks, but the thought of doing that is what's making me so stressed right now during my build. Keep us posted on what you find.

 

you didnt check your clearances but your blaming your rod knock on your break in procedure? ....


lets hope the machine shop didnt "polish" your crank backwards.

 

i'm not pointing blame anywhere.

my pistons were clocked, gaps done correctly..everything I purchased for the motor was all standard size. I didn't overbore my cylinders, kept everything factory and off the shelf. this issue appears to be at the moment affecting only 1 cylinder when i checked with the stethescope. I'm going to drop the pan and come back with more details this weekend. I've already ordered all 4 rod bearing sets in 3 different sizes as I will only have one day to address the issue....the hardest part i'm trying to figure out is how to swap these bearings with the motor still in the car.

 

swapping bearings in the car is easy. Just takes a little longer than it would with it out of the car. Please, Plastigage the bearings this time!

 

will do man, thanx gents.

 

Your still using the same method as before "Swapping", this "swapping" is what got you into the situation. Stop "Swapping" and "Measure". I've done the same thing as you. Got my block bored out by the machine shop, piston rings gapped, ordered "Standard bearings" and went to town without measuring, started her up took it down the street and bam rod knock. took the motor out bought some Plastigage(not accurate, but will work if measured more than once on the same journal)and measured found out the standard bearing was to loose because the crank journal was damged before, but the crank showed no signs. so i eventually bought a new crank and acl race bearings and this time measured my clearance and til this day 10,000+ miles its running fine(knock on wood). make sure you inspect the crank at the machine shop before torqueing any rods down. good luck with your journey...

 

I saw where you said they micropolished the crank, did they check to see if it was straight?

 

To be safe, I would check all the bearings. what's happening with the rods, could happen with the mains

I would suck if this happen twice

 

This engine needs to be striped,inspected,cleaned and rebuilding properly. Theres no quick way to go about it unless he want to end up back here.

 

Buy another d and use that motor while you correctly rebuild this one

 

better yet, buy a new d series with a good crank and start again since its all std sizes u wont be losing out on a lot.

 

He already did that, and it rod knocked. Not all motors come out with green bearings or std size, did u not read the entire post? Ahhhhhh

Buy another d to keep your car running or if it can be down, correctly rebuild the motor

how many people are gonna say it before u listen?