93 Accord EX rear brake sticking- Ebrake?
Hi, so my 93 Accord EX's rear driver side brake is sticking (they are disk on this model). After driving my wheel is extremely hot to the touch and smells like burning brakes. . . . I am worried I ruined my caliper but am not sure how to tell.
I pulled the wheel off to inspect- the pads are evenly worn and have the same wear as the rear passenger side. I thought it could be the ebrake sticking, but am not sure how to tell.
With the wheel off, I could wiggle the rotor around and get it free and spinning well. I put the wheel back on and it still spun pretty well. But as soon as I drive for any distance, the wheel is super hot again.
?? Any suggestions-- Thanks!
I pulled the wheel off to inspect- the pads are evenly worn and have the same wear as the rear passenger side. I thought it could be the ebrake sticking, but am not sure how to tell.
With the wheel off, I could wiggle the rotor around and get it free and spinning well. I put the wheel back on and it still spun pretty well. But as soon as I drive for any distance, the wheel is super hot again.
?? Any suggestions-- Thanks!
You could get a caliper off a clean car in a junk yard for cheap, replace or have the rotors turned and new pads! dont forget a good bleeding all the way around.
it could be stuck cables, I had to replace the whole cable and tube assembly on mine due to corrosion. Mine parking brake got stuck with on last winter.
Well its not the E-Brake. . . . I disconnected/freed the ebrake, pumped the brake pedal and sure enough the caliper binded on the rotor and I had to wiggle the rotor to get movement again-- so it must be the caliper I think?? Does that sound right?
Also I think I need to replace my master cylinder- if I get an Adler or OE replacement, do I actually need to do the pushrod clearance adj?
thanks guys!
Also I think I need to replace my master cylinder- if I get an Adler or OE replacement, do I actually need to do the pushrod clearance adj?
thanks guys!
Does sound like time for a new caliper.....I'd do that before the master. If the mater cyl still needs to be replaced, no you should not need to adjust any of the rods.
BTW-what is an "Adler"?
BTW-what is an "Adler"?
An Adler is just the brand that someone recommend I get-- high quality like OEM I guess.
Also, as I am doing more research, it seems that maybe this is just a problem with the slider pins. . . . with the wheel off, if I wiggle the rotor around it becomes unstuck. . . which makes my friend think it is just simply the slider pins sticking-- does this sound right?
I guess its only two bolts so before I replace anything I am going to pull those and clean/lube.
Also, as I am doing more research, it seems that maybe this is just a problem with the slider pins. . . . with the wheel off, if I wiggle the rotor around it becomes unstuck. . . which makes my friend think it is just simply the slider pins sticking-- does this sound right?
I guess its only two bolts so before I replace anything I am going to pull those and clean/lube.
Could be, doesn't cost anything to try. In my experience (95 EX), the caliper piston gets stuck more than the slides, but hey, maybe you get lucky.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
odoyle
Suspension & Brakes
1
Jun 11, 2010 10:26 AM
cccya
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
6
Oct 25, 2002 06:06 PM




