stock H22 sleeves
Been trying to search for this but can't find the info I'm looking for.
I recently dropped an H22A in my 95 Civic. It's a USDM engine out of a 95 Lude VTEC. Engine runs nicely and pulls strong with comp being 175-185 among the 4 cylinders. Since I primarily like to drag race, I'm thinking about upping the compression on it with some new pistons. I know that generally this requires some machining on the sleeves if you're running a B series engine, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the H22 uses stronger sleeves and generally when a motor starts to lose compression it's because the rings are letting go as opposed to the cylinders becoming out of round.
Can anyone confirm this? I'd love to be able to just drop the oil pan and fire some new pistons in it if it's possible on this engine.
Thanks
I recently dropped an H22A in my 95 Civic. It's a USDM engine out of a 95 Lude VTEC. Engine runs nicely and pulls strong with comp being 175-185 among the 4 cylinders. Since I primarily like to drag race, I'm thinking about upping the compression on it with some new pistons. I know that generally this requires some machining on the sleeves if you're running a B series engine, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the H22 uses stronger sleeves and generally when a motor starts to lose compression it's because the rings are letting go as opposed to the cylinders becoming out of round.
Can anyone confirm this? I'd love to be able to just drop the oil pan and fire some new pistons in it if it's possible on this engine.
Thanks
The H22 uses FRM [Fiber reinforced metal] sleeves so you have to either sleeve or use special pistons, search is your friend.
I think there are a couple companies that make forged pistons that are FRM compatible. Your other option is higher compression stock Honda pistons, from a Type-S or JDM motor.
Edit:
Found this in the FAQ https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/stock-block-stock-sleeves-wiseco-forged-pistons-416069/
I think there are a couple companies that make forged pistons that are FRM compatible. Your other option is higher compression stock Honda pistons, from a Type-S or JDM motor.
Edit:
Found this in the FAQ https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/stock-block-stock-sleeves-wiseco-forged-pistons-416069/
Last edited by typemismatch; May 24, 2011 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Added FAQ link
Been trying to search for this but can't find the info I'm looking for.
I recently dropped an H22A in my 95 Civic. It's a USDM engine out of a 95 Lude VTEC. Engine runs nicely and pulls strong with comp being 175-185 among the 4 cylinders. Since I primarily like to drag race, I'm thinking about upping the compression on it with some new pistons. I know that generally this requires some machining on the sleeves if you're running a B series engine, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the H22 uses stronger sleeves and generally when a motor starts to lose compression it's because the rings are letting go as opposed to the cylinders becoming out of round.
Can anyone confirm this? I'd love to be able to just drop the oil pan and fire some new pistons in it if it's possible on this engine.
Thanks
I recently dropped an H22A in my 95 Civic. It's a USDM engine out of a 95 Lude VTEC. Engine runs nicely and pulls strong with comp being 175-185 among the 4 cylinders. Since I primarily like to drag race, I'm thinking about upping the compression on it with some new pistons. I know that generally this requires some machining on the sleeves if you're running a B series engine, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the H22 uses stronger sleeves and generally when a motor starts to lose compression it's because the rings are letting go as opposed to the cylinders becoming out of round.
Can anyone confirm this? I'd love to be able to just drop the oil pan and fire some new pistons in it if it's possible on this engine.
Thanks
instead of pistons why dont you get a good set of cams, valvetrain, and a ported head. you will be able to keep the stock pistons and still make great power.
Also i'd look into H2B. that would also make a big difference over going with sleeving and pistons.
Mahle Gold Series or OEM pistons with FRM... If you want to hone FRM you need to call Sunnen. I called them but can't quite remember which stone to use. I know you have to use a silicone polish compound and it has to be a graphite honing stone. From what I've read, as long as there are no deep verticle scratches in the cylinder walls and they are withing taper and clearance specs you can just drop new pistons/rings in without honing.
Mahle makes a piston compatible. but it doesnt seem to last too long.. best bet is to sleeve it.
instead of pistons why dont you get a good set of cams, valvetrain, and a ported head. you will be able to keep the stock pistons and still make great power.
Also i'd look into H2B. that would also make a big difference over going with sleeving and pistons.
instead of pistons why dont you get a good set of cams, valvetrain, and a ported head. you will be able to keep the stock pistons and still make great power.
Also i'd look into H2B. that would also make a big difference over going with sleeving and pistons.
I found these on ebay and was thinking of dropping them in. I would imagine since they're made specifically for the H22 they should work fine with the FRM sleeves?
I also considered the H2B kit but couldn't justify the price. I got the tranny with the motor, put new bearings and an LSD in it and I love it so far.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-P...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by ZCboost; May 24, 2011 at 10:01 AM.
the surge shouldn't be big...get it tuned. it should be a smooth power transition, not a kick in the backside.
on a stock block? i hope it's strictly for the dragstrip.
on a stock block? i hope it's strictly for the dragstrip.
As for the surge, I'm sure it'll smooth out a bit when I get the tune dialed in. It's not as aggressive as I made it sound. The noise makes it feel stronger than it actually is (no resonator or cat).
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If all you really want to do is replace the pistons to get more compression, and freshen the motor up a bit, I would go with stock type-s pistons, new rings and bearings, and a set of new valve stems. That would give you 11.0:1 compression, a nice bump from the 10.2 or so of the USDM motor.
Another option would be to go with the H23 crank and rods, and H22 US or JDM pistons, or the H23 crank, H22 rods, and whichever pistons give you the right deck height and compression ratio that way.
Another option would be to go with the H23 crank and rods, and H22 US or JDM pistons, or the H23 crank, H22 rods, and whichever pistons give you the right deck height and compression ratio that way.
If all you really want to do is replace the pistons to get more compression, and freshen the motor up a bit, I would go with stock type-s pistons, new rings and bearings, and a set of new valve stems. That would give you 11.0:1 compression, a nice bump from the 10.2 or so of the USDM motor.
Another option would be to go with the H23 crank and rods, and H22 US or JDM pistons, or the H23 crank, H22 rods, and whichever pistons give you the right deck height and compression ratio that way.
Another option would be to go with the H23 crank and rods, and H22 US or JDM pistons, or the H23 crank, H22 rods, and whichever pistons give you the right deck height and compression ratio that way.
With the FRM sleeves I'm hoping to be able to just drop out the old ones and slide in the new ones.
Those look interesting, pretty much an aftermarket type-s piston. I am not sure how the Nippon piston coating will work in the frm compared to the stock ones, and usually you have to modify your rods to acept the type-s wrist pin style, as it differs from the other H series rod and pistons.
I used Nippon rings in my rebuild, and they seem to be good quality, seated well in my untouched cylinder walls, and have held up for 3-400 miles and 2 nights at the track so far, with no blow-by or smoking. I want to do a compression check on my engine, but may not get the chance until back from vacation in a few weeks, but it is stronger than the JDM H22 for sure.
I used Nippon rings in my rebuild, and they seem to be good quality, seated well in my untouched cylinder walls, and have held up for 3-400 miles and 2 nights at the track so far, with no blow-by or smoking. I want to do a compression check on my engine, but may not get the chance until back from vacation in a few weeks, but it is stronger than the JDM H22 for sure.
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