I am just curious if it is a good idea to use a subframe brace on just a puny 14mm rear swaybar? Is it possible to have tear out under some crazy track conditions? I mean the regular Civic subframe looks pathetic as far as strength where you would bolt up the brackets.

 

Unpossible.

 

never heard or read of this...don't think 14mm can induce enough flex or sway to harm the sub frame sheet metal, now matter how puny.

if it makes you that paranoid you can always look into making your own bsq or purchasing a beaks kit. that would be overkill though.

 

Alrighty just making sure that with some track duty it won't be tearing anything. So what all do I need then? I have the 14mm bar, brackets where the bushings are, and some other brackets that go to the subframe but are from a GSR so I don't think they will work?

 

Y/M/M??? You may need LCA's if your current ones don't have the sway bar mounting holes as well...

 

97 Civic EX. So far I need:
52317-S04-000 BRACKET, RR. STABILIZER $8.94 x2 $17.88
52320-S04-003 LINK ASSY., R. RR. STABILIZER $45.77
52321-S04-003 LINK ASSY., L. RR. STABILIZER $42.29
90002-S10-000 NUT, FLANGE (10MM) $1.71 x2 $3.42
90212-SA5-003 NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM) $0.36 x2 $0.72

 

Function 7 adjustable heim joints are only $49 a piece or is that for both? on JHPUSA vs the $45 each for OEM... IDK how long heim joints last though for a daily.

 

I use some cheap OEM knockoffs...$28 for the set. Moog/MAS/ACDelco/etc work fine (got mine from rock auto.) I've actually heard some good things about blox as well. Heim joints are noise as $hit, they drive me nuts.

 

Yeah forget that then. I will get some OEM type stuff for the low. What about those stabilizer brackets and bolts? Will the GSR brackets work with the EK subframe or no?

 

I'm an Integra guy...one of the civic cats will chime in shortly I'm sure.

GL

 

Your parts list looks good.

However, you cannot use the OEM hardware to bolt that bracket to the subframe. (OEM any ways)
The reason why is the holes on the SI subframe are I think 8mm, and the regular civic is approx. 11mm. I used 4 10mm bolts with 4 lock nuts. You will need to slightly drill out the bracket, which only takes about a minute per bracket.

I would recommend using the D bracket for the sway bar you have. However, I am almost positive you will be ok using the Civic bracket. As there is only a 1mm difference in the pieces.

Of coarse use the sway bar bushings for the bar you have.

To use the 14mm Integra bar with 99-00 endlinks, you will need spacer/bushings for the ends of the sway bar where the endlinks bolt on. This is because the Integra hole is too large.

Function7 sells them,http://www.kingmotorsports.com/p-697...ing-set-4.aspx

Or you can figure out your own setup.

For the endlink you will have run 99-00 SI if you want OEM. OR you can go aftermarket. Funtion7 are great. I have blox, and I am content with them, but will go be going F7 soon.

Heim joints have been known not to last long. I have a year on mine and they are due to be replaced. Others, have nearly 2-3 years on the same endlinks. As well as with Funtion7. They sometimes can be a bit loud, which is just the nature of the beast.
With everything so far, I would still use them again. ( I have them front/rear)

What I used was, the 2 bracket you have listed. 2 D brackets, OEM bolts to hold those to other bracket. 4 10mm bolts, 4 lock nuts, 2 ES bushings, 2 Blox endlinks with the hardware they supply.

EDIT- I just remembered, ASR sells the backing plates for 14 bucks, which I almost sure you can use OEM hardware with them. The SI basically has these factory, we do not.

 

^Good complete info by 98civdx.

Some comments of mine:

GSR brackets appear to be different R/L so they wouldn't fit. Q is then will the 14mm D-brackets fit the EK bracket, you'd have to try it out.

GSR 14mm D-brackets, bushings and bolts:
52308-SR3-000 HOLDER, RR. STABILIZER x2
52315-SR3-000 BUSH, RR. STABILIZER x2
93403-08020-08 BOLT-WASHER (8X20) x4

Bolts bracket-subrame:
95701-08018-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X18) x4

But I would use longer ones for use with ASR backing plates:
95701-08025-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8x25)

The 25mm will clear the backing plate fully, contrary to the 18mm, as I just found out, and as you see in the pic below:

18mm (Honda bolt) and 25mm (ASR bolt) through swaybar bracket and ASR backing plate (mind that the backing plate is mounted worngly in this pic, round edges should face outside and cornered edges inside, see second pic):


This my EK4 15mm installed:


I did not drill the brackets and used OE 8mm bolts (with the ASR backing plates). When you mount the swaybar left and right to the endlinks, and align the whole thing (wheels on the ground), you'll notice the subframe holes being larger then the 8mm bolts doesn't matter: some horizontal play/difference in each bushing position on the bar has no effect, and as to the vertical: mounting the brackets a mm lower/higher doesn't matter also as long as they are tightened at the same level, this is taken care of when the swaybar is mounted to the endlinks and (D-)brackets, and aligned so the bar sits nicely horizontal and in the middle between endlinks/arms/wheels/whatever. Tighten the bolt-brackets in this position, they won't move (mine haven't and I'v driven sporty since).

Read also here.

 

^^

I used just bolts/nuts instead of the ASR piece, because I wasn't aware ASR sold the brackets seperatly. IF I did it again, I would go ahead and use the ASR piece.
It's much simpler, and will cost you about the same.

I have driven the car very hard sense I did this, and have had no issues to speak of.

 

awesome info guys, thanks! Now I just need to make a complete list:
BRACKET, RR. STABILIZER 52317-S04-000-Honda (2)
LINK ASSY., R. RR. STABILIZER 52320-S04-003-Honda (1)
LINK ASSY., L. RR. STABILIZER 52321-S04-003-Honda (1)
NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM) 90212-SA5-003-Honda (2)
NUT, FLANGE (10MM) 90002-S10-000-Honda (2)
BOLT, FLANGE (8X25) 95701-08025-08-Honda (4)
ASR backing plates (2)
Energy Suspension 14MM bushings (2)

I already had the D brackets and OEM bushings so the ES is optional.
Does all of this look correct?

 

Yes I checked.

The self-locking nuts are important, as normal nuts tend to loosen in that place (had it myself); they torque hard, so don't be surprised when you do.

Mind that when you put the EK endlinks in place that you keep the endlink-bolts/ball-joints in neutral position, so don't go turning them around for fun, as when they should be turned and be in their final position to one end when being mounted, the suspension movement might force them. (hope this is worded in an understandable way)

 

Well for the Honda stuff it will be about $125. I am going to ask my friend to see what he can do. The dealership does at cost +5% for employees. Sometimes parts do not have much markup though when sold to the public.

 

Where were you getting those prices from?

The employees have to pay 5% more!?

 

Those are from I believe Honda Parts Unlimited or the OEM Honda Parts websites. And no, employee's get everything at cost + 5%. You do realize that every parts website you find is after markup and is not at cost or even cost +5%. I have boughten things that online it was $120 but ended up being $40 with the employee pricing.

 

Ohhh. I misunderstood your post.

I know about the markup's.