brakes sensitivity
when i step on the brakes, the car doesnt really slow down as much...do i need to bleed the brake lines to get a better reaction from the brakes? i already got new honda brake pads 2 months ago...
You could have frozen caliper pins. It happened to me. My brakes felt like mush.
Take the caliper pins out, clean them on wire bench grinder to get the rust etc off, apply Honda Moly Lube, re-install, enjoy.
Take the caliper pins out, clean them on wire bench grinder to get the rust etc off, apply Honda Moly Lube, re-install, enjoy.
they let the calipers move/float in the brackets. This keeps both the pads centered, otherwise the outside pad would wear away and only the inner pad would be pressed by the caliper.
bleed the lines first, its the cheapest and easiest solution, after you bleed the brakes and they still feel mushy then proceed to check the master cylinder, lines, etc..
[Modified by OEMaccord, 1:17 AM 10/1/2002]
[Modified by OEMaccord, 1:17 AM 10/1/2002]
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Bleeding procedures
Whether bleeding a master cylinder on a bench, or a brake caliper or wheel cylinder on the car or truck, the procedure is generally the same. There are three methods of bleeding that can be done without expensive equipment, Manual brake bleeding, vacuum brake bleeding, and gravity brake bleeding. When you start to bleed the brakes in any manner you will quickly see the object is to allow brake fluid (and trapped air) to move in one direction, from the master cylinder to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders. Regardless of the method chosen, be sure to keep filling the master cylinder while bleeding the brakes. If the master cylinder runs low on brake fluid, it will pull air in and you will need to start from the beginning again. Be sure to top the reservoir up with brake fluid after finishing (Tip: Connect a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw and direct it into an old plastic container to collect the old brake fluid).
Manual brake bleeding
Manual bleeding is the process of applying force to the brake pedal while holding the bleeder screw open. Have an assistant in the vehicle, press the brake pedal as directed (Tip: don't ask you wife to do this if possible). For best results, place a block of wood behind the pedal to prevent it from travelling all the way to the floor. Have your assistant pump the brakes for 30 seconds. Then have your assistant hold the brake pedal down while you loosen the bleeder screw at one of the wheels. You should notice the air coming out of the system while the bleeder screw is open. Close the screw and wait 15 seconds. Repeat the procedure a number of times for all four wheels until there is no air left in the system and the brake fluid that comes out is clean. When the system is full of clean brake fluid with no air in it, the brake pedal should be high and firm. Some auto parts stores will sell new bleeder screws known as "speed bleeders". These are bleeder screws with a check valve built in that prevents the reverse flow of brake fluid (just as closing a normal bleeder screw does). To bleed brakes using these screws, simply loosen one screw at a time and pump the brake pedal. Be sure to close the screw before moving on to the next wheel.
Vacuum brake bleeding
Vacuum bleeding has the advantage of not requiring an assistant. A simple vacuum tool which should be available at your local auto parts store is all that is required. Simply connect the vacuum line to the bleeder screw, and then open the bleeder screw. Pump the vacuum tool until the fluid running into the reservoir in the tool runs clean.
Gravity brake bleeding
Gravity bleeding is the simplest of all methods. Simply open one bleeder screw at a time and wait until the air works its way out of the system. When clear fluid runs from the bleeder, close the bleeder screw and top up the reservoir. Unfortunately, leaving the screw open for any length of time will allow it to absorb moisture. Additionally, air bubbles may be trapped in the system and need to be worked out using a vacuum or pressure bleeding method. Gravity bleeding is usually only done when replacing a brake caliper or wheel cylinder.
Taken from http://www.carcentral.net/content/ar..._bleed_brakes/
Whether bleeding a master cylinder on a bench, or a brake caliper or wheel cylinder on the car or truck, the procedure is generally the same. There are three methods of bleeding that can be done without expensive equipment, Manual brake bleeding, vacuum brake bleeding, and gravity brake bleeding. When you start to bleed the brakes in any manner you will quickly see the object is to allow brake fluid (and trapped air) to move in one direction, from the master cylinder to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders. Regardless of the method chosen, be sure to keep filling the master cylinder while bleeding the brakes. If the master cylinder runs low on brake fluid, it will pull air in and you will need to start from the beginning again. Be sure to top the reservoir up with brake fluid after finishing (Tip: Connect a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw and direct it into an old plastic container to collect the old brake fluid).
Manual brake bleeding
Manual bleeding is the process of applying force to the brake pedal while holding the bleeder screw open. Have an assistant in the vehicle, press the brake pedal as directed (Tip: don't ask you wife to do this if possible). For best results, place a block of wood behind the pedal to prevent it from travelling all the way to the floor. Have your assistant pump the brakes for 30 seconds. Then have your assistant hold the brake pedal down while you loosen the bleeder screw at one of the wheels. You should notice the air coming out of the system while the bleeder screw is open. Close the screw and wait 15 seconds. Repeat the procedure a number of times for all four wheels until there is no air left in the system and the brake fluid that comes out is clean. When the system is full of clean brake fluid with no air in it, the brake pedal should be high and firm. Some auto parts stores will sell new bleeder screws known as "speed bleeders". These are bleeder screws with a check valve built in that prevents the reverse flow of brake fluid (just as closing a normal bleeder screw does). To bleed brakes using these screws, simply loosen one screw at a time and pump the brake pedal. Be sure to close the screw before moving on to the next wheel.
Vacuum brake bleeding
Vacuum bleeding has the advantage of not requiring an assistant. A simple vacuum tool which should be available at your local auto parts store is all that is required. Simply connect the vacuum line to the bleeder screw, and then open the bleeder screw. Pump the vacuum tool until the fluid running into the reservoir in the tool runs clean.
Gravity brake bleeding
Gravity bleeding is the simplest of all methods. Simply open one bleeder screw at a time and wait until the air works its way out of the system. When clear fluid runs from the bleeder, close the bleeder screw and top up the reservoir. Unfortunately, leaving the screw open for any length of time will allow it to absorb moisture. Additionally, air bubbles may be trapped in the system and need to be worked out using a vacuum or pressure bleeding method. Gravity bleeding is usually only done when replacing a brake caliper or wheel cylinder.
Taken from http://www.carcentral.net/content/ar..._bleed_brakes/
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