so ive got the clutch input on a momentary sw on the steering wheel and the activation sig on a toggle. Turning on the activation starts the timer and the data log and pressing the clutch sw resets the timer to the first stage. is this right ??

Launch setup.... so lets say i setup the s300 antilag to make 15 psi and set the launch psi at lets say 6 psi will it leave at 6lbs its got a 14 lb spring on the gate so i dont think it could do this? should i just set the antilag at the psi i want to leave at ?


Time stage.... for some reason after i setup the first stage it shows 0 psi on the boost veiwing graph until it reaches the end of the stage where it then ramps to the target psi.... its got a 14 lb spring so even if i put a target of 2 psi its gonna go to 14 cause the spring.. i dont have a problem setting the stages up its only the first stage. is this right ?

the car doesnt have C02. down the road were gonna change the spring and put it on c02 but for the time being i just wanna try to get used to the controller..

thanks for any help

 

Your launch switch and bottom is correct .

The psi that you put into the controller is the psi that is applied to the top port of the gate. Most of the. Time if you apply 2psi on the top of a 14psi spring it will make 16psi total. Not all setups are the same but that's the basic rule of thumb.
I tried to run without c02 and it built boost really slow on gear changes . C02 is the only way to go.

 

pretty sure 1st stage time = 0 sec .....

i gotta turn mine on...

 

yea the time u input is when the stage starts...not how long it is
I.got ahold of somebody at nlr today and clarified some things

 

So if Iam not using the aux map channel its just gonna log the psi at the gate

 

yes

 

FML.... this is gonna be a pain on the ***....1 more ? So a high exhuast back pressure setup will require less target psi to reach your desired manifold pressure.....

 

pain in the ***? its probably the easiest boost control to set up!

 

a high exhaust back pressure set up will require MORE target psi to reach desired manifold pressure.

almost every car starts off add 1psi and it gains 1psi manifold. MOST cars get to about 30psi or so and you have to add a little more.

you can set one up on the dyno in less than 5 pulls if the engine is already tuned

 

no the other way aruond. The more BP the more PSI you need on the top.

 

Lol.... that's what I was trying to say...... thanks for the help man

 

IMO its the best BC out there.

 

I have to pull the log to see the psi in the stages...... so yes the way its setup now.... its a pain on the ***

 

Well we went to the track.... everything was working fine... but after the burn out the controller would throw code 6... boost map error.... I have the sensor directly into the top of the gate..... I think its from vibration... checked for boost leaks... every thing seemed good.... when u clear the code it throws it intermittently..

 

Mine did the same thing. The connecter on the map is more then likly loose. I changed the connecter problem solved.

 

nlr has an error code ? is this in some new software ?

 

yes the last software update can throw codes if there is an error

 

good to know

fwiw. we been using the nlr ams 1000 for about 6 years now, and it works flawless everytime. it does exactly what we want it to do.

 

hope this helps

http://www.psychobike.com/forums/nlr...ighlights.html

 

They have codes even in the version 2

 

Rick.... did u buy the connector from NLR...

 

its a gm connector, i think certain vehicles it was a tps sensor. ive seen then for sale at several auto parts stores

 

Awsome.... thanks

 

I had a few of the connectors from datalogging transdusers. Most transducers use the same GM connector.