So I have a 95 EJ1 and I ordered the Hard Race master bushing kit and I want to go as low as possible(I know, I know it'll ride like ****) so I was wondering if when I get the new bushing pressed in I could offset(rotate a little) the rear UCA bushing and trailing arm bushing to make the suspension sit lower creating less droop and less stress on those bushings. Has anyone done this before? I don't see what could go wrong...

 

Not sure what you mean by rotating it, I'm guessing you're going to modify the UCA itself? I don't think the bushings are going to go against what they will naturally do.

I would worry about it less and worry more about getting a good suspension for going that low with high rates.

You're going to need at least 550 front and 400lb rear rates to dump your car without bottoming out. You'll also need extended top hats I'm sure.

 

The bushing inner collar is not offset so you cannot rotate it to go higher or lower (like a cam bolt).

 

you mean clock the bushing when you press them in? that's what you should be doing anyway when you're going low. it won't make the car sit any lower though, just less stress on the bushing.

 

how do u properly clock the bushing on a really low car though?

i was thinking:
set the car to the height u want

put it on a 4 post hoist

get a spirit level and mark horizontal in line with the flat bit of the rod out the side of the bushing

then you have a mark to go off to clock the bushing when you install the new one

hows that sound?

 

You're making it way too complicated. You're not going to make the car ride smoother by talking nicely to the bushings before you install them.

Your ride is going to be trashed anyway by needing ultra stiff rates to ride dumped.

To avoid bottoming out all the time you're going to need 550+lb front springs and 400lb+ rear springs.

A bushing is a bushing, it's molecular composition isn't going to change because you held your mouth right installing it. The weight of the car and the components while driving are going to play a much larger role in the health/effect the bushing has on your suspension geometries workings.

 

That's exactly what you do. Get all your suspension in there with an old RTA bushing. I didn't need a hoist but if you are extremely low, you probably will. You don't need a spirit level either, just any straight edge.

 

awesome


and you have no issues with the rta bushing binding or tearing/wearing out prematurely?

 

OP is referring to clocking the bushings to match ride height and suspension arm angle, which on the RTA and rear UCA bushings must be done as you press them in, since those bushings both have a bar through the middle that attaches to the body.

I did this on my RTA bushings by marking the bar's orientation with respect to the arm with the car sitting on the ground. And believe me this wasn't an easy task, trying to use a straightedge and a Sharpie. Unfortunately I forgot to do this for my rear UCA bushings before getting the HardRace ones installed. Oh well, car was lowered for 8 years before replacing the OEM bushings and the old ones weren't THAT bad, so I'm not too worried about it.

 

what do you refer to as uca?
and are these in a hardrace full bushing kit?

 

Jesus... If you clock the bushing with a million dollar suspension it's going to be better than not clocking them, thanks for for telling me the obvious! And as far as the whole spring rate thing goes, I'm glad you follow all the troll info, my friend used OTS rated GC's and Koni's riding dumped and never had a problem(same car)... I'll take info from people who have experience, like PatrickGSR, he seems to know his **** and I was waiting for him to reply. As always, a spot on responce! Thanks man.