Installing large door speakers, help me if you've done it
So I've got a set of CDT M6 6.5" components that I'm gonna be installing in my 99 civic coupe front doors sometime soon. Obviously not going to work with the factory openings since they are made for 5.25's, and the depth is 2.94", so that is going to be a concern as well. I have some 1/2" and 3/4" MDF spacers that may help wi9th the depth, but I'd probobly need to demolish the door panels in order to use them. Who out there has done something like this, and how did you do it?
Are you sure about the model number, I can not find a "CDT M6" 6.5" component set.
They will have to be CL, HD, ES Gold or EU series speakers.
The only "M6" I know about is the HD-M6 6.5" woofer and the HD-M6+ 6.5" subwoofer... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6_07.pdf and... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6plus_07.pdf 94
They will have to be CL, HD, ES Gold or EU series speakers.
The only "M6" I know about is the HD-M6 6.5" woofer and the HD-M6+ 6.5" subwoofer... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6_07.pdf and... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6plus_07.pdf 94
So I've got a set of CDT M6 6.5" components that I'm gonna be installing in my 99 civic coupe front doors sometime soon. Obviously not going to work with the factory openings since they are made for 5.25's, and the depth is 2.94", so that is going to be a concern as well. I have some 1/2" and 3/4" MDF spacers that may help wi9th the depth, but I'd probobly need to demolish the door panels in order to use them. Who out there has done something like this, and how did you do it?
Check out my DIY... I had an integra and i installed alpine type s speakers that wouldnt sit flush and ended up having my door panel stick out a bit and was ghetto as heck.
Its a simple fix, but is super practical.
Its a simple fix, but is super practical.
here check this out... idk if its what you are looking for but same concept will apply to a civic.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/diy-6-5-aftermarket-speaker-install-10-steps-front-door-proper-fitment-2387553/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/diy-6-5-aftermarket-speaker-install-10-steps-front-door-proper-fitment-2387553/
your only problem is this statement
That is exactly what it was designed for to keep the water out of the speaker. Your door isn't sealed and that why if you look at the bottom of your door you will find drain holes. When it rains water runs down the inside of the door. Eventually your speaker will fall apart from water damage.
What I did was to take a small piece of stiff paper I used the front cover of a yellow pages.
Cut out a rectangle that would provide me a lip that covered the speaker. I dipped the paper in rubberized roofing material. Then glued it to the upper portion of the plastic speaker cabinet. That way water ran around the speaker and then down instead of into the speaker.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is the backside of the speaker now exposed to moisture inside the door?</TD></TR></TABLE>
--- If it was designed to stop moisture i am pretty sure it wouldn't have been vented everywhere, and have a large hole on the bottom end for the plugs. Maybe it helped a bit but i doubt it will do any damage, and if it does. More likely than not, you will be upgrading or replacing the speakers before they experience "moisture failure."
--- If it was designed to stop moisture i am pretty sure it wouldn't have been vented everywhere, and have a large hole on the bottom end for the plugs. Maybe it helped a bit but i doubt it will do any damage, and if it does. More likely than not, you will be upgrading or replacing the speakers before they experience "moisture failure."
What I did was to take a small piece of stiff paper I used the front cover of a yellow pages.
Cut out a rectangle that would provide me a lip that covered the speaker. I dipped the paper in rubberized roofing material. Then glued it to the upper portion of the plastic speaker cabinet. That way water ran around the speaker and then down instead of into the speaker.
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Are you sure about the model number, I can not find a "CDT M6" 6.5" component set.
They will have to be CL, HD, ES Gold or EU series speakers.
The only "M6" I know about is the HD-M6 6.5" woofer and the HD-M6+ 6.5" subwoofer... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6_07.pdf and... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6plus_07.pdf 94
They will have to be CL, HD, ES Gold or EU series speakers.
The only "M6" I know about is the HD-M6 6.5" woofer and the HD-M6+ 6.5" subwoofer... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6_07.pdf and... http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/HD-M6plus_07.pdf 94
I have a feeling that getting something larger and with more mounting depth is going to require some cutting of the plastic on the door panel, likely involving grill mounting tabs. Just trying to get feedback from people who have mounted different speakers.

here check this out... idk if its what you are looking for but same concept will apply to a civic.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2387553
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2387553
just cut the back of the basket and wala, 3 inches of legroom. the del sol i had did that and it have 3.3 inches of depth without a spacer (without touching the window when down) and in my s2000 i cut it and it gives like 2.8 before it touches the window, so yeah, it should fit. just cut the back of the basket and check.
They are the HD M6 woofers as you linked.
I have a feeling that getting something larger and with more mounting depth is going to require some cutting of the plastic on the door panel, likely involving grill mounting tabs. Just trying to get feedback from people who have mounted different speakers.
I have a feeling that getting something larger and with more mounting depth is going to require some cutting of the plastic on the door panel, likely involving grill mounting tabs. Just trying to get feedback from people who have mounted different speakers.
What i do with those door panels is cut the speaker housing right out of it, as much of the speaker housing as you can, but still clip the grills onto the door panel.
Now the custom work, you will need to fashion a mounting plate for the door, I use 1/2" MDF, I will make it as big as possible and still be able to clip the door panel onto the door properly, It must be mounted to the door solidly and airtight.
Cut a hole in the mounting plate, [centered with grill] a little bigger then the speakers magnet, [about a 5" hole] measure the depth you have to the face of the plate, subtract that from the speakers mounting depth, [2.94", call it 3"] make MDF spacer(s) with an outside diameter the same as the speakers, [ 6.75"] and an inside diameter to fit the speaker, [5.87"], use whatever thicknesses of MDF that will add up to the "height" you need, glue them together and to the mounting plate, "paint" it all with fiberglass resin to waterproof it, your done. 94
your only problem is this statement
That is exactly what it was designed for to keep the water out of the speaker. Your door isn't sealed and that why if you look at the bottom of your door you will find drain holes. When it rains water runs down the inside of the door. Eventually your speaker will fall apart from water damage.
What I did was to take a small piece of stiff paper I used the front cover of a yellow pages.
Cut out a rectangle that would provide me a lip that covered the speaker. I dipped the paper in rubberized roofing material. Then glued it to the upper portion of the plastic speaker cabinet. That way water ran around the speaker and then down instead of into the speaker.
That is exactly what it was designed for to keep the water out of the speaker. Your door isn't sealed and that why if you look at the bottom of your door you will find drain holes. When it rains water runs down the inside of the door. Eventually your speaker will fall apart from water damage.
What I did was to take a small piece of stiff paper I used the front cover of a yellow pages.
Cut out a rectangle that would provide me a lip that covered the speaker. I dipped the paper in rubberized roofing material. Then glued it to the upper portion of the plastic speaker cabinet. That way water ran around the speaker and then down instead of into the speaker.
I stated above you can put some insulation around it if you are concerned about moisture or some minor DB loss.
GL!
--- The speaker is going to get "rained" on... i would think it would just be moisture in the air at best... Unless you are missing the window gaskets and or have some hardcore gapping that shouldn't be there... If it worries the person doing the way i did... I would think putting some thin pliable packing foam sheets would suffice. There is multiple ways this could be handled, if it is that big of a deal to the owner... IMO... Any amount of rust form is going to happen, no matter what... To have the amount of rust build up to cause failure?... either something is messed up on your car or the speakers have been in there for 6 years too long. Take it as you will, people will do it as they see fit non the less.
There are many ways to accomplish this using an MDF spacer is a good one to retain the plastic speaker cabinet function. But some magnets are to big and it needs to be modified. Just be sure to create a way to direct water around the speaker.
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