hows my build looking?
Ok so im going b20vtec. Im collecting parts now and my build is goin something like this.
B20b4 block
Arp rod bolts
Stock rods and crank
Rs machine itr pistons
Oem oil and water pumps
Bearings???
Gsr head
Blox b cams
Skunk2 valvetrain
Edlebrock victor x intake mani
New valveseals
Aftermarket cam gears
Ls vtec kit
Oem headgasket
I dont what engine mangement system i wanna run yet. Maybe you guys can give me some reccomendations? Not looking to break the bank either
Hoping for at least 220hp on a DD. So hows evrything looking? This is my first build so im pretty excited. Please let me know if im missing anything! comments or feedback is very welcome!
B20b4 block
Arp rod bolts
Stock rods and crank
Rs machine itr pistons
Oem oil and water pumps
Bearings???
Gsr head
Blox b cams
Skunk2 valvetrain
Edlebrock victor x intake mani
New valveseals
Aftermarket cam gears
Ls vtec kit
Oem headgasket
I dont what engine mangement system i wanna run yet. Maybe you guys can give me some reccomendations? Not looking to break the bank either
Hoping for at least 220hp on a DD. So hows evrything looking? This is my first build so im pretty excited. Please let me know if im missing anything! comments or feedback is very welcome!
its looking sexxy so far jk
What fuel are you going to run this bad boy on?
Also ad a 3" exhaust to that list. A decent header with a 2.5" or bigger collector. Scrap the blox b's and get some real cams. IMO like skunk pro2s or tunner 3r. Other wise build looks good. Oh for bearings. Either oem or ARP. Both are good choices. Make shure to get the ARP bolts properly fitted into the rods and then machined. And double triple check your clearances. Get it to a tunner asap after u get it fired up. DO NOT beet on it on a basemap or a stock p28 ecu. And remember that dyno numbers dont meet jack.
GL
What fuel are you going to run this bad boy on?
Also ad a 3" exhaust to that list. A decent header with a 2.5" or bigger collector. Scrap the blox b's and get some real cams. IMO like skunk pro2s or tunner 3r. Other wise build looks good. Oh for bearings. Either oem or ARP. Both are good choices. Make shure to get the ARP bolts properly fitted into the rods and then machined. And double triple check your clearances. Get it to a tunner asap after u get it fired up. DO NOT beet on it on a basemap or a stock p28 ecu. And remember that dyno numbers dont meet jack.
GL
I want to run it on pump gas. I forgot to mention the tri-y replica headers and 3" exhaust. Now i tore aprt the bottom end today and everything looked flawless. So im going to get new oem bearings, how do i find out which color i need? And what engine management system would you use that wont break the bank? Also would it be safe to drive it to the tuner? Its about 30 mins away most of that is highway driving. I WOULD NOT get on it at all. Just babying it there.
Ok im lost when it comes to valvesprings and retainers. I want to run some s2 pro 2 cams and i dont know which valvesprings to get. Also do i need aftermarket retainers? Or can i use my stock ones?
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You usually run the same valvesprings as the cams you're running, so the skunk pro series. Use their retainers as well, the stock ones don't have the same retainer to valve seal clearance you would need when running large cams like the pro series.
Looks good so far. Def go with aftermarket valvesprings and retainers when raising rpm/cam lift/hp from stock. Valve float will destroy all your hard earned work.
Consider E85 if its available in your area for fuel, I love it.
I run hondata s300 and its great but eCtune and chrome are not bad choices for basic setups.
Ive used a few different kinds of bearings and havent really had problems with any of them.
With your parts list your goal might be the best case scenario on pump gas. Tune it on e85 with some nice injectors, its a different story.
I run id1000 injectors they are kinda expensive compared to others but so worth it. Idle quality is great and if you stay N/A you will never need a bigger injector.
Lots of guys rag on blox cams, but I run them because I got them cheap and funds were low at the time I got them. I made real good power with the blox cam too, So if you got them, run them see what happens. And if they fall short, upgrade when you can. Id look at the skunk pro 2 if I bought new cams right now for myself.
ARP headstuds also if you havent already decided that. It almost goes without saying now a days.
Consider E85 if its available in your area for fuel, I love it.
I run hondata s300 and its great but eCtune and chrome are not bad choices for basic setups.
Ive used a few different kinds of bearings and havent really had problems with any of them.
With your parts list your goal might be the best case scenario on pump gas. Tune it on e85 with some nice injectors, its a different story.
I run id1000 injectors they are kinda expensive compared to others but so worth it. Idle quality is great and if you stay N/A you will never need a bigger injector.
Lots of guys rag on blox cams, but I run them because I got them cheap and funds were low at the time I got them. I made real good power with the blox cam too, So if you got them, run them see what happens. And if they fall short, upgrade when you can. Id look at the skunk pro 2 if I bought new cams right now for myself.
ARP headstuds also if you havent already decided that. It almost goes without saying now a days.
Ok cool! Skunk 2 valvesprings, retainers, and pro2 cams it is. And this is my dd so i want to run it on pump gas..i dont know too much about E85 in my area. Ill look into it though. And do you guys think is can get 220hp out of this? Id be happy with that lol.
its looking sexxy so far jk
What fuel are you going to run this bad boy on?
Also ad a 3" exhaust to that list. A decent header with a 2.5" or bigger collector. Scrap the blox b's and get some real cams. IMO like skunk pro2s or tunner 3r. Other wise build looks good. Oh for bearings. Either oem or ARP. Both are good choices. Make shure to get the ARP bolts properly fitted into the rods and then machined. And double triple check your clearances. Get it to a tunner asap after u get it fired up. DO NOT beet on it on a basemap or a stock p28 ecu. And remember that dyno numbers dont meet jack.
GL
What fuel are you going to run this bad boy on?
Also ad a 3" exhaust to that list. A decent header with a 2.5" or bigger collector. Scrap the blox b's and get some real cams. IMO like skunk pro2s or tunner 3r. Other wise build looks good. Oh for bearings. Either oem or ARP. Both are good choices. Make shure to get the ARP bolts properly fitted into the rods and then machined. And double triple check your clearances. Get it to a tunner asap after u get it fired up. DO NOT beet on it on a basemap or a stock p28 ecu. And remember that dyno numbers dont meet jack.
GL
make sure they are sk2 pro series springs and retainers, not the tuners.
What do you guys think about clevite bearings? I really wanna drive my car again so im gonna be putting the motor back together soon. Just got everythibg back from the machine shop
Absolutely nothing unless you have a problem with my idea of supporting real shops and rnd not knock offs. I have nothing against them. They are great cams. Make great power. Butt there is always better.
the tuner 3 skunk cam might be a bit too big. try the tuner 2 if u dont have the resources to get the pro cams degreed in. youll save some change on the valve train also .no sense in getting pro series if u cant degree them. i personally would try out the neptune rtp set up. i currently have an s300 but they dont support mac so **** them.
Machining ARP rod bolts into the rods isn't expensive at all. A proper machine shop would recon the rods and install the rod bolts for them all for under $100-$150 MAX for all of them. No need to purchase Eagle rods. If you don't have one in your area, let me know.
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