i got a 98 civic cx , about 40 k on the motor and 177xxx on the chassis. these are all the parts ive put in, but what next?

1998 CIVIC HATCH CX
CHAMPIONSHIP TYPE R WHITE PAINT BODY AND DOOR JAMS NO DENTS
CTR BLACK HOUSING HEADLIGHTS
CTR GRILL
CTR AMBER SIDE MARKER LIGHTS
FOGS
CTR FRONT LIP
CTR REAR LIP
99-00 SI MIRRIORS
16'' GOLD MOTEGI'S Z7'S WITH POLISHED LIP AND NEW 95% TREAD 205/45/R16 TIRES
AGX FULLY ADUSTABLE DAMPENING UPPER AND LOWER ONE PIECE STUTS ON H&R'S HANDLES AMAZING
SKUNK2 UPPER STRUT BAR
SKUNK2 LOWER STRUT BAR
SKUNK2 TIE BAR
SKUNK2 REAR STRUT BAR
SKUNK2 C-PILLAR BAR
SKUNK2 LOWER CONTROL ARMS
ASR SUBFRAME BRACE
BREMBO BRAKES FRONT AND REAR DISC BEMBO'S WITH HIGH PRESSURED STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED BRAKE LINES
AKEBENO STREET PERFORMANCE PADS FRONT AND REAR
2000 SI FRONT SEATS
2001 ACURA GSR REAR SEATS
CRV CLUSTER
SKUNK2 SHORT SHIFTER
SKUNK2 SHIFT ****
ALPINE MP3 CD BLUETOOTH DECK
ALPINE TYPE R SPEAKERS AND TWEETERS
2000SI STEERING WHEEL
WINDOWS ARE TINTED WITH SUNTEC 45%
CTR RED PANNEL INSERTS IN DOOR PANNELS
MOTOR IS A 2000 ACURA GSR DOHC VTEC B18C1
ITR PISTONS
NIPPON PERFORMANCE RINGS
ITR RODS
ACL PERFORMANCE ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS
BENCHFOLW PORTED AND POLISHED AND DYE TESTED HEAD
ITR CAMS
SKUNK2 VALVE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS
SUPERTECH VALVES
SUPERTECH VALVE SEALS
OIL CHANGE WITH ROYAL PURPLE 5W30 FULL SYNTHETIC OIL
RADIATOR FLUSH
NEW NGK PLATNIUM PLUGS
NEW DISTRIBUTOR CAP
NEW TIMING BELT
NEW WATER PUMP
TYPE R OIL PUMP
NEW FRONT AND REAR MAIN SEALS
HONDA OEM HEAD GASKET
PORTED AND POLISHED GSR INTAKE MANIFOLD THAT IS ALSO DE-BUTTERFLIED
EDELBROCK THROTTLE BODY
PASSWORD JDM CARBON FIBER INTAKE
APEXI ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM (ALUMINUM BOX MOUNTED UNDER THE HOOD)
P73 TYPE R ECU
HIYTEC 4-1 HEADERS
GSR V4D LSD TRANSMISSION NO GRINDS AT ALL SHIFTS LIKE BUTTER ONLY HAS 1500MILES ON TRANSMISSION
STAGE1 EXEDY 6PUCK CLUTCH
EXEDY FLYWHEEL
EXEDY PRESSURE PLATE
NEW SYNCRO'S NEW THROW OUT BEARING NEW INPUT SHAFT BEARING FULLY RE-BUILT
JDM MUGEN TUNED EXHAUST SYSTEM QUIET BUT SOUNDS AMAZING IN VTEC
NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS!!!
AND HAS AIR CONDITIONING THAT BLOWS COLD
CARGO COVER
SI FLOOR MATS

 

a girlfriend......

 

Do you post on a forum every time you go grocery shopping?

My first move would be getting better suspension, replacing all the skunk2 suspension/chassis bracing and getting some seat time at my local track.

 

whats wrong with the skunk 2 suspension? im getting the ecu tuned in 3 weeks also. plus i got brakes and cv boots to replace so that change would have to wait .

 

hey blurr, what radiator are you running with? do you get overheating issues? just wondering.

btw, post some pics up

 

Nope, no overheating problems. i cant remember if its the 00 gsr radiator or the stock one. i do have a question tho, when i cold start every morning, my car revs to 2k for a good 10 min before its at normal idle. would that be the idle control valve or MAP sensor? pics below.

http://s766.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=IMG_0409.jpg

http://s766.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=IMG_0410.jpg

 

Everything is wrong with skunk2 suspension. Warranty, quality, following, etc.

There are a lot better products with better warranties for the same money.

 

what brand would you recommend ? cuz i thought skunk2 was legit. i take turns doing 80 like nothing .

 

Replace your muffler bearings and blinker fluid! Its your car, do whatever you feel would make you happy with it

 

I also have skunk2 suspension and can take some crazy turns pretty smooth. But I have a daily driver and dont go to the track or anything like that. Not yet anyway.

I have heard Tien suspension is pretty good, but I will let ek forever guy answer your question.

I just thought I would throw in my .02. I personally like skunk2 and have had no problems with them.

 

I didn't meet a sinlge instructor at the SoloAtlanta's novice school who said they'd recommend skunk2 suspension on anyone's car. One thing the FWD class did get to talk about were various mods and what to buy and not buy. The 3 instructors I'd talked to say they never see skunk2 on the track. It's almost always koni/GC, Progress, that's it. The one guy who said he'd only use their camber arms said he'd rather have HardRace camber arms since the bushings are better in his experience.

People who actually race their cars need to be able to have the option of selecting rates that fit their driving needs. Unless you can pic the precise rate you'd like you aren't getting a real performance suspension. AMR, Ground control, Pic, Progress, all know what they're doing and know that each application and driver is going to need different rates.

All these super stiff omni/skunk2 setups aren't doing the trick. Not to mention the new skunk2 products that do have adjustable damping and selectable rates don't come with a lifetime warranty like koni or AMR does.

Maybe it's just me but there's a lot to be said about a company that will put a lifetime warranty on their racing products which get abused more than an oe replacement would typically.

 

a type R wing would look a lot better

 

dude sounds to me like project finished! props for actually sticking with a project long enuff to do all of this. most people give up and sell their project half way done. jus drive it, take it to meets and shows and be happy with it. will you post some pic so i can see it?

 

i agree seems like u finished ur project ... unless u plan to turn it into a track car

 

i got links to pics in the 6th post on this thread. im thinkin about selling her and getting an em1 si and just do a b20 swap .

 

IMO Stick with your EK over the EM1.
When changing from one Brand type to another, you can only upgrade, not downgrade... take that as it is. For example, Civic --2--> Integra --2--> S2000 --2--> NSX

You got a good car there. A Civic Hatch with a full GSR motor. w/ A/C

The only 2 things i might would add would be the Skunk2 Intake manifold, BUT, The B18 IM is fine as is but you have the support of the valve springs to rev higher for that little extra power with a upgraded manifold.

and go for the FULL GSR Leather interior to complete the look.

There's Jealousy from here mate.

 

so apparently there is dyno specs on bisimoto forum in the dyno vault of a d16 pushing 220 WHP was unable to find it but i have seen talk about it. no proof though..

BUT

I have seen a set up like this:
z6 long block
dohc ZC pistons aka 12:1 cr.
comp cams 59300
valve work
port to match
i/h/e
some other things

was pushing 170+ WHP last I knew.

I can't see it would be that much harder to get 30 whp more