Just wondering if anyone knows off the top of their head, where the wires are to cut for the sunroof motor and/or window motors for a 2000 Integra?
I'm planning on installing these 2 modules soon and I'm sure it has been done on here many times.

The functions I'm going for:
Windows and sunroof close on arm
windows open from a specific channel (5?)
sunroof opens from a specific channel (6?)
windows vent after arming

 

I did a write up along time ago, Were you could use the 2 factory relays to do the job. Instead of buying anything. I will be taking my car apart soon and will see what I did.

 

Nice, if you have a link to the write-up that would be appreciated.
I will probably install these over the weekend.

 

I never found the write up and didn't attempt this last weekend.

I'm wondering if anyone has installed the 530T in a DC and what wires need to be cut? I read this must be done after the power windows control module (I don't know where that is located).

Same for the 529T, how to wire this up for + + sunroof switch?

Thanks!

 

The power window module is in the driver's door. You'll have to drill a hole into the door, insert a grommet, and run four wires from the factory grommet above the cruise module.

The sunroof wires are connected at the switch. If you have a coupe, there's no overrun switch so you'll have to set the timer. Or the module might sense the load and kill it. It's been a while since I did one. The sedans have it though.

 

get a techsoft printout of your vehicle. the 529t is for the sunroof I assume, usually goes one way, to close on arm. 530t allows both ways, armed roll up, and vent from another channel. sunroof relay on my accord was left kick, and your power window wires are at the switch, with you running your output wires from the brain to the 530, which I install in the door, along with power and ground leads through the door jamb for the 530. I set the "sensitivity" at the highest on the module for the door windows also.

 

sorry I don't know the colors off hand.

 

LF Window up/down: red/blue - red/yellow in drivers door
RF Window up/down: blue/yellow - blue/green in drivers door or drivers kick panel
LR Window up/down: green - green/yellow in drivers door or drivers kick panel
RR Window up/down: yellow/green - yellow in drivers door or drivers kick panel
Sun Roof open/close: green/red - green/yellow sun roof switch

 

The above is from directwire, the bellow from techservices

LF Window Up RED/BLUE (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH
LF Window Dn RED/YELLOW (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH
RF Window Up BLUE/YELLOW (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH OR KICK PANEL
RF Window Dn BLUE/GREEN (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH OR KICK PANEL
LR Window Up GREEN (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH OR KICK PANEL
LR Window Dn GREEN/YELLOW (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH OR KICK PANEL
RR Window Up GREEN/RED (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH OR KICK PANEL
RR Window Dn GREEN/YELLOW (REV) DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH OR KICK PANEL

 

Thanks for all the info!
It seems to me like the windows will be fairly straight forward. I have installed Clifford SmartWindows before in my Civic. Should be a basic wiring job.

The sunroof, on the other hand, seems a bit more complicated, needing a couple relays to control the +/+ switch and a timer to keep it from running forever. I'll create a wiring diagram and post it up for review.

I'll take pics and do a DIY write-up when I get it all installed.

 

I thought I might have it figured out until the 528T got into the mix.
Does anyone know if this is even close?
I'm thinking the 528T needs to go between the relay 30 and the switch + input.

529T
Blue = Motor Side 1
Gray = (-) Output through activation side1
Brown = Switch Side1
Orange = (-) Activation input, side 1
Black = (-) ground
Gray/Black = (-) Output through activation side 2
Red = (+) 12V constant
Orange/Black = (-) Activation input side 2
Green = Motor side2
White = Switch side 2

528T
Orange = 87A Normally Closed
Brown = 87 Normally Open
Yellow = Common
Black w/stripe = Trigger Input (to Gray/relay 85?)

 

I know some electrical guru's on here can help me with my wiring diagram...

 

Why are you cutting ignition power to the switch and running it through a relay (which is then triggered by the 529T)??

Ditch the 528T. You don't need it. The 529T quits automatically when it senses the sunroof motor stops moving.

On the 529T, change your gray, gray/blk, and orange/blk wiring. Everything else is right. These wires give you different options on how to trigger the 529T, either with a neg pulse or a neg constant, and whether your sunroof will open or close. These are optional. You could just use the orange to have your alarm close the sunroof automatically and call it a day. You have the orange hooked up right so cut the other three and toss out that relay you put on the oem switch's ignition power.

If in addition to having the alarm auto close the sunroof, you'd like to be able to open or close it by remote, then use any of the following wires.

For as long as the gray/black sees a neg, it opens your sunroof. You can use this on a neg validity output on your alarm and it will open the sunroof for as long as you hold your transmitter button down. Or if your alarm has a timed neg output, you could use that.

The orange/black opens your sunroof when it sees a negative PULSE. You could use this on a neg pulse output from your alarm. Tap your transmitter and the 529T will activate until it senses the motor stops moving.

When gray receives a neg PULSE, it closes your sunroof completely. All considerations are the same as they were for orange/black.

For future reference, the 528T is wired just like any other relay. You're using it to interrupt a circuit just like what you do with the alarm's start kill. Orange and yellow are connected internally until there is a change of state on the black/stripe. Then orange is disconnected and brown is connected to yellow for the set time. If you're switching between two different things, you would use all the wires. But often times you will use either orange or brown and not the other. Just like how your normally closed starter kill relay is connected to 87a and 87 is not used.

If I'm wrong about the 529T stopping automatically, then cut the 529Ts ground wire, run it through the 528T via the brown and yellow wires, and tap the black/stripe into any wire that triggers the 529T.

 

I hope it is that easy and I am making it more difficult than it really is...
From what I read, the switch rests at positive and complicates things. Although the wiring diagram shows that it rests at ground?! The switch does drive the motor directly:

 

And here is V2.0, I hope I don't need the 528T

 

Here is the final wiring diagram for the 529t in a DC integra. This was so easy, I can't believe I spent so much time trying to figure out how to wire up a +/+ switch and the 528t.
Thanks a million baller_status and rjr162!!!

From the alarm:
Orange is ground when armed, it closes the sunroof when I arm. The 529t shuts off automatically, no need for the 528t.

Violet/Black is channel 4 (-), it opens the sunroof for as long as I hold the button. A single press is perfect to vent the roof up, but not slide back.

 

Here's is the wiring diagram for the 530T in an Integra coupe, in case anyone needs it.

 

I had the opportunity to test this today. In the DC coupe I installed this in, there was no overrun switch for the sunroof. You can test this by continuing to hold the sunroof button after the sunroof is completely closed. If you can hear the motor continue to run as long as the switch is held, there is no overrun switch. This Integra was a 97 coupe. His was a 2000. I'm not sure when the cut off date was when they added the switch, but according to the Helms, all sedans have it.

Without the overrun switch, you can't wire the 529T orange to the alarm's orange. It would cause the alarm to run the motor continuously whenever the alarm is armed. Instead connect the 529Ts orange to the alarm's timed negative output.

 

No, the 529T has the switches just like the 530T that you set to turn off the 529 motor outputs when a certain "resistance" is reached, so the 530T will quit output just like you were operating any other window (since you're suppose to drive the motor its self so the "circuit breaker" for lack of better terms within the 529/530 kicks off). It's also one reason installers who haven't ever used one before are stumped when, on a car with sticky windows, only roll up half way and then stop when the alarm is armed

 

I still have the car because there is more installation going on with it. I can shoot a video tomorrow if you like.

If you wire 529T orange to alarm ground-when-armed, the sunroof motor runs on and on as long as the alarm is armed. Timed output is your only option if you want it to auto close on alarm arm. Full travel is completely out of the picture. It has to be controlled aka validity or timed.

I've done this from time to time, but this is the first time the car didn't have a limit switch. I checked the Helms and the early coupes lack the limit switch on the sunroof. They only had them on the door windows.

 

Ballet:

That's why you're suppose to drive the motor directly with the 529/530 units and *not* the wire between the switch and relay. But I guess the sunroof motor + relay control is all one unit (I don't have a clue on that one but the 94 or 95 (can't remember now its been a long while) worked fine with the 529)

You sure the switch isn't there just non-functional? Or that you didn't tag the motor wires directly (if that's a possible option on that car?)

I don't have one arouns to test so I can't tell you if the directech wires colors I listed above are driving the motor (the way directechs has them listed it seems they should be reverse polarity which typically means they are driving the motor). If they are driving the motor, then you use the armed output and as I said the 529 has a built in shutoff that kicks in based on current draw (when the window isn't moving anymore because it's fully opened or closed, the motor draws more current which the 529/530 senses and shuts off.... so the motor doesn't sit there trying to work away forever. You use the dip switches to adjust the sensitivity of the 529/530 shut off threshold)

 

The switch drives the motor directly. There's a relay, but it's redundant. It's between the fusebox and the switch. Honda could have wired it to accessory power instead of constant with an accessory power controlling the relay.

Factory switch works fine. It's reverse polarity. I don't think there's any other way of doing it.

I have directechs and the Helms. I've installed a half dozen of these at least over the years. They just don't sell often enough for me to memorize.

The 530T has dip switches but the 529T doesn't. I installed a 530T on this car and it's working fine. The 529T is also working fine, I just had to wire it up to aux validity to open and aux timed / linked to door lock in order to auto close.

 

Dang, I could have sworn it did, but that's what you get trying to remember back 3+ years when you did the 529's

 

Hello guys,
I know this thread is a year old. But I need some guidance to install this module in my car. First up my car. 1990 Honda Accord LX Sedan. I have a few options that I will need help on.
1) The best location to mount the 530T module? In the door or in the cabin kick panel? Either way, I still have to run wires but which way is best for me to run the least amount of wires into the doors. The boots in my car is real tight and difficult to run wires. It looks like I might have to drill with grommet into the doors.

2) Option 1: one module 2 doors, and one Aux channel needed from the alarm brain.

3) Option 2: two modules all 4 doors, how could I wire this option, do I need 2 aux channels or a single one is good?

4) I want to wire the module(s) so I don't lose my power windows features.

I figure it's best to connect it when I am installing my alarm next week.

So is this the final correct diagram that I could use?

Thanks.

 

Do not install it in the door. Always run the wires from the motor into the vehicle. I went to the junk yard and got oem honda extra pins to plug into the molex plug. Get the larger ones for the motor and the smaller ones for the switch. The 530t will sense someones arm and stop because of the resistance. For this reason it is also wise to clean the window tracks frequently and use the proper resistance settings with the dip switches for the type of vehicle it is installed in. You will also see the benefit of auto up and down from the drivers switch for the 2 or 4 windows the modules are for. 1 530t for 2 windows up & down. 1 529t for sunroof or rear sliding window such as a Tundra.