Bad_dude

I kinda of understand what you are saying about the extra plugs, but I have to figure out which plugs to get and wires. Are you saying the extra pins to avoid cutting the wires? I think I got it now. So you would need to run 2 wires for each up and each down since one side for the motor and the other back to the switch. That means 4 wires total?

Do I need 2 aux channels if I use 2 modules for 4 windows? Or a single aux controls both modules is fine? How would I wire the modules up?
So how many wires do I need to run through each doors? 2 or 4?
Thanks.

jmaze

Get the pins with a few inches of wire and yes it is so there are no wires to cut or extra holes to make between the door and jam. I made mine to be plug and play. You will notice that there are holes for extra wires in the plugs at both ends of the door harness. You need two wires for the switch and two wires for the motor since you are basically splitting them in half so that the 530t can control them. The passenger windowns can be traced in the cabin near the kick panel. Make sure the ground wires are on bare metal.

Bad_dude

So basically you are saying the OEM plugs have blank holes that I can put extra pins in to connect to the plug? But you still have to run the 4 wires through the driver's door right? Sorry I can see the extra plugs to avoid cutting but I can't visualize how the 2 sets of up/down wires go into the door between the motor and switch? Perhaps a diagram or even some photos from you work might help me see them.

Do I have to run wires into the passenger's door? Or you are saying I can trace the wires from the door into the cabin and use the extra pins like you mentioned above and put in the plugs?

Hey I really appreciate your help. Where about are you in CA?
Thanks.

Axatax

If you go on Ebay and search for door harnesses for Integras or Civic's with power features, it'll make more sense.

There is a molex connector in the door with extra holes for additional pins. You still need to run wires from the cabin, through the door boot to the connector, and from the interior of the door to whatever option you're installing.

The lazy way is to drill a hole in the connector through some of the space used by the extra pin holes. The person who sourced the proper pins did this correctly.

On a model lacking power features (CX, DX, etc.), the connector is different (small 2-pin for door speakers), and there is ample space to run additional wires without having to deal with pins or drilling holes.

Bad_dude

I see it now, you still have to run wires but through the already existing blank holes in the door molex.

Thanks.

Bad_dude

Hey,
What about the passenger's door? Do I have to run 4 wires into the passenger's door too? Or could I some how tap the wires for that door from the driver's side? I hate to run long wires across from the module to the passenger's door.
Thanks.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

This is real easy. Either put the unit in the door and run your trigger wires and atleast a 10g power for the unit. You can get your power source from the thick 12 volt battery wire at the fuse box. Reason is that low voltage kills power windows motors. The car is not running. And the unit has to power itself and two windows. You do not have to run any other wires into the other door unless you want one touch on the second door.

Axatax

Found this:

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~78731~PN~1

Really helpful.

Bad_dude

Thank you. What about the orange ground when armed? I think we need 3 wires, one big power cable, on trigger, and one orange ground when arm. I would like to retain the windows as OEM which only the front driver's door is one touch which I never use any way. My car is 4 doors, so do you think I could have 2 units in the driver's door and run all of the up and down wires to the main switch at the driver's door? I am thinking of going to the junkyard to get the whole door harness to avoid cutting all of the wires. Get the harness for the switch side and solder for the motor side. 4 years ago I couldn't run the bigger speaker wires b/c the boots were on real tight and I can't run them without breaking the plastic plugs. I'll have another look and see. Maybe just remove the fender to see.
Thanks for the help. I know you are very busy.

Bad_dude

Thank you. Happy 4th of July guys.

thewrai6th

Glad to see this post is still getting some usage.
FWIW Both modules are still running fine. I'm not sure what all the sunroof issues were about, but as long as you are driving the motor directly, post switch, you shouldn't have a problem with overrun.
Drilling the holes for the wires was the hardest part. My door is still not on straight.

baller status

Yeah, I've learned to NEVER take off the door. Take off the fender instead. Much much easier with the door hung the whole time (though removing the fender is a PITA) and no door alignment issues.

Integra sedans have overrun switches but coupes do not. Confirmed this with the Helms manual.

The 529T either doesn't have built in resistance detection as claimed or it doesn't work. The 530T built in resistance works poorly on Honda made vehicles and others that have lots of resistance to rolling them up. You might as well save your money and use your own relays.

Bad_dude

Now I have ready about using relays a few times. I have a few questions on how this works:
1) How many relays do I need in each door?
2) How do I wire them up to work with the alarm system?
3) With the relays, will it has resistant limiter so it does not overrun and damage the motors?

Thanks.

littlenickysa

Hey so I've got a couple questions about my DEI 529.
1. I have a 2001 honda civic ex sedan and I cant figure out what color wires run to my sunroof and where I should tap into them.
2. Also, because there 2 buttons to use my sunroof there is a button to push my roof back and one to vent it should I have gotten a 530 or can I use the 529 for both? Thanks.