so i finally blew my the Head gasket on the the z6 so its time for the build

well i need help for my build and if the price is right
i know how to rebuild an engine but i dont know what aftermarket parts is best for turbo
so please give me your opinion or experiences
thanks
im trying to hit 300 up whp and MONEY! is not a problem to me
this is what i got now

Block: resurfaced
vitara pistons, npr rings, oem honda filter, acl rod bearings $155
eagle rods set with arp rod bolts $320-340
ARP head studs $100

Head: resurfaced
supertech ti retainers and valve springs $300

my turbo setup
FMIC with 2.5in pipe cold 2in hot with BOV
t3t4 turbo or gt turbo
cast iron or ram horn
wastegate
2.5in downpipe
test pipe with 2.5 catback with sp2 axleback
close to 2k

now my questions
should i hone my block .5mm more and get 75.5mm or stick with 75mm?(my block looks fine)
what brand/type of head gasket should i get?
block guard needed?
crankshaft work?
should i get oem honda water and oil pump or aftermarket is okay?
what kind of timing belt should i get?
are aftermarket valves better than stock?
whats the differences in the stages of a camshaft? what you recommend?
port polish job?

anything else thanks

 

I KNOW THE Z6 IS V-TECH AND THE ZC IS NON V-TECH BUT WHATS THE DIFFERANCE?..
I HAVE A JDM ZC AND IT SLAPPS ON SINGLE CAM V TEC MOTORS...
IS IT CUZ IM RUNNING A CHIPPED B16 ECU?

 

If the block is fine then there really is no reason to go .5 over. Just get a fresh hone, and build it.

OEM head gasket should be fine.

I would not use a block guard.

Take the crank to a machine shop, and ask them how it looks. If they say it's fine, then nothing should be needed.

OEM Timing belt.

I would go with OEM pumps.

I'd stick with OEM valves.

Usually the stages are hint of how aggressive they are. Stage 3 is more aggressive then stage 1.

Look up how to do a DIY port job. You likely wont see huge gains, however you main gain something.

Don't forget a ECU.

 

wtf?


thanks for the answers
ill stick to oem belt,pump and valves and HG
does a higher stage camshaft requires better springs and retainers?
got p28 chipped ready to go hondata s200

 

Ideally, yes, you should upgrade the valve springs/retainers with some of the higher lift cams.

Super-tech seems to have great valve train parts. Those should do the job just fine.

 

wtf are you talking about?? there a zc vtecs, there are zc dohc's from christ sakes..

anyways...

sounds like you have a solid plan, with those vitaras and rods you can hit up into the 400's with worrying about your block so 300 will be very safe, and can easily be turned up once you think its not fast anymore, lol.

I agree with sticking with as much oem as possible as far as gaskets, belts, ect. the arp's are a good investment, block guard: un-necessary

 

ok thanks i got supertech

ye its just like a swap in my eg that feels fast and is fast but after a while its like what you say lol

ok thanks i got arp rod bolts and headstuds

NO BLOCK GUARD! got it thanks

 

75.5mm is .20 over not .50 and is usually recommended to go with that bore to insure the cylinders are truly round and you don't get piston slap.

Get a Bisi stage 2 camshaft or maybe a EX 59300.

OEM everything else where possible. Belts, pumps. etc.

Cometic headgasket.

Crank work not necessary.

ACL bearing if you can find them.

Neptune RTP for engine management.

 

You don't need a Camshaft, Valve Springs/Retainers, Block Guard, OR Ported Head to make 300whp. You should leave all those stock and focus on getting quality parts for the things you NEED!

You "should" run the FJ Custom length rods because it will raise your compression, you will be able to run less boost to make the power you want, and it will be more responsive then the low compression you will have with the Eagle rods. And I agree with the post above in the fact I think you at least need to bore it to 75.5, mine is 76MM and had no issue with sleeves, and I recommend Cometic HG but you can use stock if you want.