White_EG1

Okay so I'm gonna turbo a d16z6 but I want this to be very reliable and healthy so i want to replace all of the wear written parts beforehand. Mostly because the motor will probably be junkyard. My budget is 1500.

Keep in mind I'm having a machine shop build it. Thing is I couldn't tell you every part that lies in a motor, so I'm kind of blind. I have been searching, and this is my parts list


eBay emusa t3/t4 turbo kit
Vitara 75.5mm pistons
Eagle rods
Acl main, rod, and thrust bearings
Arp headstuds and bolts
MLS head gasket

And a hot tank, bore, notched block from the machine shop missing anything here? Would I benefit from building the head also? I was just gonna get it hot tanked valves resurfaced, new guides, springs, seats and seals.

My power goal is 350hp


Or should I just turbo the bone stock z6? Hp/$ is what I'm looking for here, but with reliability. I could be fine with 200-250hp

Thanks in advance, flames are well welcomed.

sr20paisa

everything seems about right, just upgrade you syncros and get a used l.s.d (you will need unless you like 1-wheeled burnouts lol) and beefy tires build sounds decent though, you should be able to achieve the hp goal with a tune if the ebay turbo holds up

sr20paisa

...............and a clutch kit

White_EG1

Yeah def a clutch kit gonna go with the stage 4 competition clutch kit.


I was just thinking tho what if I'd be better off boosting it just bone stock. The more money I can save the better.

Caoboy

Make sure you keep your stock motor ready when your 'build' blows up, especially with an eBay turbo kit.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

A Comp Clutch Like the 1620 I have sitting in my garage, looking for a new home?

[/not-so-innocent self-promotion]

White_EG1

Yeah my stock motor real healthy.


But please please elaborate on how my build will blow. And how running a eBay turbo kit is even worse. Are they the best? No. Will it work temporary? Yes. And this is all I'm concerned about. Is it because I didn't list a tune? I'm towing it to the tuner. Because I'm White_EG1? The turbo is only temporary. And I am aware they blow every 3 months.

Sooo pls expln

Caoboy

Mainly because you are you.



Secondly, your budget is 1500.



If you JY the motor, that's 150.

HG is 125

rods 275

pistons 125

ARP head studs 100

bearings 100

w/p seals misc hoses 300

now if you machine the motor and have them install the valve stem seals/guides, re-cut the valves, machine the head flat, hot tank everything, hone the cylinders, balance the pistons/rods/flywheel/crankshaf/crank pulley, that's easily $600 and you haven't even had them put together the motor.

That's already $1,775.

You haven't even purchased the turbo kit.


So if your budget is still $1,500, you're cutting corners. Mostly, this would be in putting together your own motor, but you have no skill in doing that, so you're probably going to a cheap/shady machine shop or not doing things that need to be done (like balancing the rotating assembly.)


Again, keep your stock motor ready for when you blow up this 'build'.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

^^ Sounds like Gregory House just showed up...

White_EG1

Tell me this then am I better off with just a head gasket, arp head studs, boost and call it a day?

Caoboy

This is not gdd, so I will be nice.


You're better off driving around with your stock motor and:

Get a good longblock and build it properly, if you are going to build it at all. Once it is built, then focus on purchasing good turbo parts.

If you know it is good to go ( a simple leakdown test will tell you if it is healthy) and you want to boost it stock, then focus on purchasing good turbo parts.

Otherwise, just save up more money, because your budget needs to be about double for you to have a decently built motor and a 'good' pieced together kit.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I think he's saying because you're taking you out of the equation. changing the larger items like rods/pistons/bearings/new HG, all hinge on what you're doing to make this 'budget" build, anything but that in the long run.

So, in essence, Caoboy is trying to save you a lot of headache.... from yourself.

Just observations.

sr20paisa

Honestly with 1600 you can get a GSR swap on CL, you wont have to go through that much of a hastle trust me I almost went this route.......TWICE that's just my 2 cents

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

lol you are NOT having an engine built, and boosting it, on a $1500 budget.

Caoboy

Mostly, harsh criticism to point him in the right direction...

A lot of people think $1500 is a good number for a turbo build. IF they know what they are doing, and get a lot of good deals, and build their motor themselves, they might end up within budget.


My last 'budget' build was $2,000...

The last built turbo setup I was around, the built longblock and kit was purchased used for $3500, after the original owner spent about $5k.

That motor ended up needing something like $,1500 more in tuning/parts, but it is pushing 650hp now, with room to grow


White_EG1 could slap in a hg on an unknown longblock and run it. Idk about 350hp...


My cousin is running 350 on a b20vtec with 9-10lbs of boost. He said his turbo will max out at 450. His is pieced together, and he spent about 1k, but he already had the turbo lying around, and the motor, he just needed to purchase the 'little things' that add up.

Caoboy

Your budget build sounds like it's going to end up like this to me lol.

White_EG1

How about this? Arp head studs mls head gasket ebay turbo stock internal z6. I don't really need 350whp that's honestly a pipe dream, could see myself fairly happy with 200-250, and knowing that I didn't spend money I don't have.

Honestly please just tell me if this seems atleast somewhat attainable stock, with a good tune.

sr20paisa

omg i hate these guys
i hate theway they look,talk,live,drive,think everything i hate them awwwwww mien gawd i hate them i hat haggard garage bunch of pans

Caoboy

Whatever you do don't cut corners.

Get rid of teh ebay turbo kit. You can piece together a better kit, if you take your time and find the right deals.

However you want to setup your motor do it. If you want to put in a new HG and headstuds and call it a day do it.

Spend some time in the SOHC turbo numbers thread to see what other people are running on similar stock motors. 200-250 might be achievable.

White_EG1

Yeah you're right, why not just do it right the first time? I'll just throw a z6 in it drive that until I can afford all the good turbo parts garret 50 trim, greddy bov, etc. I've just became inpatient. The lack of power, the horrible dx gear ratios, I get laughed at... Popping your hood when you have a d15 at meets is not jdm yo!

I have that's where I came up with that number. I'm thinking 250 could be pushing it tho. But this will not be my daily just a fun car.

But I was more of asking your opinion.. Would you run stock internal turbo with just Hg, head studs? And could this be any part of reliable? And yes this is only if it passes the compression/leak down.

I appreciate you man!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

you aren't going to make 350 on a bone stock d series, no way no how... the stock rods simply aren't strong enough. after 225-230hp they start to break.

and don't cut corners with the ebay turbo kit... for a reliable turbo setup you would need to replace literally every part in that kit with name brand parts, save your money and do it right. either price together a decent kit with quality used parts and new parts here and there, do a slightly higher class diy/junkyard turbo setup, or up your budget because everything else is going to cost more

White_EG1

And omg I don't get how they have 50k subs. But the tuner community is going to **** so no suprise. I wish somebody would find their house and light all of those miatas on fire



there a bunch of phaggots

sr20paisa

word

White_EG1

I said 250hp. Elaborate on how everything in the eBay kit is bad. I know you're supposed to replace the turbo and waste gate but what deems the whole kit bad?

Caoboy

The manifold has bad welds and tends to crack. The steel is weak. The ic piping generally needs to be adjusted/massaged to fit right. The IC isn't the best. The turbo is hit and miss on longevity.

Again, if you have to replace all that, you might as well just piece together a kit.

Buy a cheaper cast manifold.

Buy a small good turbo (t25?)

Buy a good bov.

Go ahead and get the eBay IC kit. It'll work.

Spend the money on good management.

Basically set up the kit to run about 7 psi reliably so you can get some choo choo noises and beat your buddies who have bolt ons.