Right now I am running the 92-95 Greddy FMIC piping on my ZC'd/EF. I am getting shitty spool times. I have added the boost controller, checked all vacuum lines, and checked a i/c piping for leaks. I hold boost fine, but it takes forever for me to get out of vac and get up to 7psi. Would smaller piping effect this at all? I was thinking of going w/ stock DSM piping/sidemount or part stock DSM piping w/Starion FMIC. The Greddy is like 2.25" (I think), and the DSM is like 2". For my setup, will the 2" work well and help w/ spooling?

jB

 

just a thought but what happens when you want to up the boost? won't you need the larger dia. piping. what exhaust are you running?, opening up the exhaust might be your answer. you would think that greddy designed that system to work well together, so i would just spend the time and money elsewhere...hth

 

Do you have any pics of your install. I'm planning on doing the same install and would like to see how you ran your charge pipes etc. What problems did you run into? TIA

 

Whelp, for now I don't have any plans on going over 10psi. I'm not going to be updating the internals, so I am going to keep it low. I know the DSM piping is good for 11+psi, so I'm thinking it would work. DP is the one in the Greddy SOHC kit, w/ 2.5" piping straight back to a Ractive muffler.

Here's a couple pics of her:







That's the 92-95 Greddy SOHC kit. Damn crossmember got in the way a little bit, but I worked around it. Right now the piping is really close to the ground too, so I have to watch it over speed bumps. When I put in my Starion FMIC, it'll be a little better organized.

jB

 

Thanks a lot for the pics....gives me great visual....Do you have one of the actual bumper taken off so I can see how the piping is ran through. How come the IC sits so low? What could have you done different to route the piping to raise the IC? TIA..

 

I don't have one right now w/o the bumper. When I put in my Starion in a couple of days I'll try to remember to grab a couple. When I put the FMIC in, it was like the last thing I had to deal with and I wanted to get it friggin done so I could boost. It is sitting really low, and the I/C pipes are going around the right side almost touching the passenger side wheel. Since the kit was made for the EG's, it was hard to use the piping w/o modifying them (B/c of my damn crossmember.) I would suggest getting custom piping made so that the FMIC can sit behind the bumper support. I am going to chop up these pipes when I put in the Starion so I can use it behind my bumper support and not have them hanging so low. I just used the stock brackets on the I/C, and screwed the top one in to the middle bolt of the bumper support so it would sit tite. Ghetto, yes; Effective, yes; Pretty, not really .

jB

 

JB why a starion??? what wrong with your trust intercooler!!! that thing is 700$new?


Tyler

 

There is one in a local j/yard for a pretty good price (Or from Landry if he will ever friggin send it to me). The Trust is nice, but it's a little small, and the piping situation sucks on it (B/C of my crossmember). The Starion is thinner and will fit between my bumper support and my radiator (I wont have to cut up my brand new bumper I just got). I got it w/ the entire kit (Used).

jB

 

I have heard you can decrease the time to full, steady boost by routing the vac line from the dashpot to the manifold. This gives the dashpot a truly accurate reading of boost psi that the motor actually sees rather than gathering a boost reading off the compressor housing and thus adjusting the dashpot accordingly. Remember to cap off the compressor vac line tube if you do this.