So I've been having trouble keeping my axles in one piece since i've done traction bars. Car is still wheel hopping as well. Has avid race mounts and the motor is rock solid.

I never had a problem launching my integra and breaking axles and I had at least 50 passes on drag radials with it; also preloading correctly (im pretty sure)

Today I brought my 22" BFGs and got a few passes in then wheel hopped after adjusting the launch control higher and snap.

Thinking Im gonna take the bars off next time I go to the track or wait until I can afford some 2.9's....

 

Slicks
Preload
No wheel hop

 

lower launch

 

Its the DRs.

 

My first try with slicks was 5000rpm taken it real easy and it snapped before I moved an inch.

 

Also this might help,make sure all your bushings are good, and that you dont have the front end "dumped" being to low.

 

Chris what tire pressure are you running in those slicks?

Did you get any full passes on those slicks? Did the slicks eliminate the wheel hop?

 

Go with a full 22" slick, radials are very harsh on drivetrain parts.

 

Do they snap instantly or during wheel hop? How are your traction bars adjusted?

 

Well on slicks on my first try it snapped instantly. Dead hooked. I should have had less pressure in the tires and launched higher. Never tried again. Figured Radials would be better to work with to start.

On the drag radials it was during the hop, so I know that's where i ****ed up. But I feel like the traction bars are making it harder on the drive-train for sure because theres no suspension flex now.

Bars are adjusted to pull towards the front of the car about a turn

 

You need to have about 10-12psi in the radials and slip the clutch/preload. Also traction bars do not eliminate wheel hop. You will see more benefit from getting some ES bushings for your suspension. You already have nice motor mounts and traction bars do help with other things. What is your suspension setup? How is it adjusted?

I have made hundreds of passes on bfg's and have NEVER broke an axle, just oem diffs. LOL. It's all in having good, solid motor mounts and suspension bushings that are in good shape or the ES kit.

Radials are much harder on your car than slicks for some odd reason. You will have wheel hop with radials but not so much with slicks.

 

The dead hook is what snapped the axles when you were on your slicks...

Start at a higher tire pressure so they spin instead of hook at first, then start backing the pressure down in 2 psi increments.

 

Slicks+preload= happiness. If you are snapping axles with 300hp it is usually a driver error. You can snap axles with 150hp with the wrong launch technique and you can have stock axles survive 800hp on a 9.50 pass like ours with the right launch technique. We don't have any special bushings in our suspension and the car just ran 9.49@157 with stock axles. I had to force our driver to slip it a tiny bit on the launch but a good preload should be all you need with your car, don't ditch the slicks just yet

 

More seat time..do a track rental day w/ some buddies and practice till your sick of it

 

Car makes over 500 , but it never saw that until 4th gear anyway lol.

Like I said I've made tons of passes on the BFGs in my integra and never had an issue until this.

Im selling the slicks now because I need the money and would like to get drag radials to use on the street because I spend alot more time there

 

The point of that was whether you make 100hp or 900hp you can still break axles if you are not launching the car correctly and shocking the driveline. Be careful on the street, don't get dead.

 

worn lower control arm bushings?

 

Probably. I was looking into doing that next

 

Im telling you Im preloading right.

And on the street I am very particular about the conditions when I mess around for everyones sake.

 

Your traction bars are loaded the wrong direction. The wheel wants to travel forward when you launch, so if the bars are pulling then the wheel has help traveling forward and the wheel hop gets worse. Put the car on the ground and just take the slack out of them in the "push" direction.

New control arm bushings is a good idea too if you think they might be worn out.

 

x2

Or tie rod inner bushings can cause this too.

 

I thought 'DaveF' said you want to pull the wheels forward with the radius bars creating positive caster..

 

I was always told this

 

Go the other way and see what happens Remember, just remove the slack. If your changing caster with the rods thats too much IMO.