realllyyyyy not sure which category i should be putting this under, think it should be fine here
i just installed my edelbrock performer/partially homemade turbo kit, basically a pieced together turbo kit with the edelbrock manifold, secondary injector setup, and turbolink turbo control unit
install is done, car's not gettin spark now
i'm thinking it's a wiring issue with the turbolink setup
i'm missing the vtec resistor wire and map sensor voltage clamp for it
i figured i'd be fine with out the map sensor clamp cuz i'm running 7 psi and i bought a resistor(same resistance) for the resistor wire
everything's wired up properly as far as i know, solder's good, doublechecked everything, tried starting the car, getting no spark still
replaced ignition coil, icm, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and pretty much all the little other stuff needed
car's got a cel for the vtec solenoid(code 21), i'm assuming this is unrelated and i'm sure this is from the resistor wire
i was also wondering, i know when running diagnostic, code 0(bad ecu, which i'm suspecting due to a bad ground or something else wiring related) comes up as a solid light. i was wondering how it would appear with an additional cel, or if i could even get an additional code to a code 0?
i've dug through all the wiring multiple times, tried bypassing the wiring connected to the ignition system, checked my grounds, messed with the distributor and i'm starting to run out of ideas
hoping somebodyy has had some experience with troubleshooting this setup, need some ideas
please help

 

If you did all that already I would put it back to stock or how it was before and if you still dont have spark then keep trouble shooting.. Fixing a no spark issue is easy but not after you messed with the wiring harness.

 

so i re-did all the wiring for the turbolink system, ditched the garbage butt connectors that came with the kit and soldered everything and got the car running
car runs fine until i hit peak boost and then reverts back to the stock map after that(i'll rip it through second or third just fine, then the car starts running lean and misfires like crazy after that until i shut off the car and leave it for awhile)
possibly my map sensor?
i don't have the map sensor voltage clamp that's suppose to be included with the kit, figured i'd be fine considering i'm only running 8 psi
or possibly something else?

 

it's a d15b7 block with d16z6 head so it's obdI
according to edelbrock's website the z6 performer kit comes with the voltage clamp, but doesn't specify anywhere else that the z6 kit needs it, only the y8 kit

 

You need the voltage clamp. Without it the stock map senor will see boost and throw a code and put the car into limp mode ,till you turn it off and back on.

edelbrock is really bad about the voltage clamp. they dont tell you you need it but you always do.

 

tried putting a missing link on today that i had sitting around. car did a little better, but still ran like garbage after a couple full boost pulls
gonna just go ahead and order the voltage clamp

 

Use a obd2 map they go up to 11 psi. that might help. seriously though the leaning sounds like your not getting enough fuel. are u on stock injectors. I dont think you will make it to summers end. Lean N Boost = not good. remember check plugs after each pull until you get figured out.

 

i'm on stock injectors at the moment, if you know the edelbrock kit it's designed for them, they use a secondary set of injectors when under boost. i ordered sum saturated 310's the other day(may switch to 450's at some point, see how it goes), hopin they get here soon. spark plugs are lookin fine every time i've checked them, looks like it's been runnin a little rich lately if anything. like i said, the car runs fine for the most part, just runs lean when the map starts to crap out, at which point i pull over and unplug the battery to let the ecu reset

 

Now that u got it figured out go get tuned asap

 

There's nothing to tune with the edelbrock kit. Car uses stock ecu and injectors, uses a secondary set with a pre-programmer controller.

You people can't read...

 

If this car is obd1, why nto stop playing aorund with all that hack crap and get it tuned on a proper system like ectune, hondata, neptune

 

^thats what i'm saying but hey... who takes advice anymore?

 

well ok so it uses all the stock stuff basically a ghetto boost mobile. why cant you stay under 10 psi with a obd 2 map sensor. what spring do u have in the WG I cant believe eldobrock has a 10lb spring. put in a 7lb spring and run off wg then the map will work. I am trying to figure out if you went to all this trouble did u get this elderbrock stuff for free or something. Are you goin above 11psi lower wg spring then see if you can sorta tune it from their. Really am tryin to help. but do u have a wb so u know how lean.

 

heres how the kit works.

intake manifold supplied with the kit has 4 secondary injectors installed on the underside. you tee into the fuel lines, install the voltage clamp and wire in the injector box. it has its own internal map sensor and under boost it adds fuel from the secondaries, not the primaries. so the stock ecu thinks the car is still stock

the injector box is only programmed up to 7psi.

it uses an internal wastegate... not external

 

In other words it's junk for anyhjng other than preset boost pressure of 7psi so get it tuned on somthing lol.

 

are u blocking the ecu map sensor when it sees boost only. aka missing link. try
or maybe that is what you need then your ecu will give you as much fuel as it can and then your Elderbrock will give you additional fuel. You have a fuel psi gauge and what pump u running. if old get a new 255 in tank. running 6 injectors and all. anything under 7 and if small turbo dont get to worked up unless you have hi comp. engine. then 7 is a lot like in my itr 11.1. I really dont think you have complete junk but man for 400 bucks it would be so much easier with neptune rtp in a obd1 even with what you are doin with the eldorblock it could be changed to a meth injection. with your two extra injectors. GL

 

8 injectors... 4 secondary 4 primary

The kit uses a gt28rs.

 

This is what I meant go get it tuned right not mess around with extra injectors and voltage clamps and crap ..

 

to clarify, i bought the kit minus the exhaust portion(manifold, turbo, downpipe) for a couple hundred bucks, pretty worthwhile setup for the price. i'm running an ebay turbo at the moment that i had sitting around from a parts trade(yeah, i'm fully aware it's a piece of ****, but i don't think many people have boosted their honda for well under 500 bucks). i'm externally wastegated on a 7 lb spring. and the Linksys setup actually is tuneable(very limited capability though i'm sure). my shop is lookin into the programmer for the system and i'm waitn to see if it really is worthwhile

 

at this point i just wanna keep the car running right enough to sell it or i'm just waiting to blow the motor. i'm waiting on the first batch of those d15 h-beams(i'm on the list already) and i plan on bein one of the first to max out the usdm d15 blocks. either way, there's really no reason for me to spend money on further tuning my current setup as long as it continues to run solidly

 

Box needs to be retuned. An eBay turbo flows nothing like a real gt28 rs so it's probably running stupid stupid rich

 

i'm aware. it runs a lot better than you'd think though. plus the whole fireball out the tailpipe thing may be a nice selling point for the dumb kid who buys my car with daddy's money

 

and to my knowledge the edelbrock kit coming with the 28rs was abit of a rarity, all but one of the kits i've seen had the gt28r