B18B1 Issues with starting, smoking, and turbo blowing. Please help!
Alright guys... I need your help. My brother is not in the financial situation to fix his car with a company and I'm just trying to diagnosis it myself until we can find a solution whether it being me fixing it or professionals.
Basically, my brother bought the car modified (yes we know this isn't the best decision). It's a b18b1 in a civic body. I'm posting this on here because the motor came straight from an Integra.
Issues and things we've seen:
The car started smoking under the hood pretty bad and it became a more noticeable problem the more he drove it. It seemed to be a white smoke rather than the bluish smoke I have heard of. And then we started seeing oil on the turbo inlet. (I just took the turbo apart a couple of days ago and it looks that the CHRA has failed and will need to be replaced). Next issue that started to arise was issues with the car starting. It would start just randomly on different days. We took it to a dealership this time to get it checked out and they said it was the dizzy along with the wires. So they replaced those along with the valve cover gasket. The dealership also said the car was being flooded with fuel? That made no sense how it would just have started randomly. Next, I did a compression test for the first time on a car and we were getting numbers in the 90's all across the board. (Not sure if this is bad because it's a built block? MODS LIST WILL BE AT BOTTOM). I believe I did this correctly... it's not too difficult. Also I want to mention, and I don't even know if this is an issue, but the oil pressure gauge on the a-pillar was reading 90 psi starting and then it would drop to around 30. It seemed way too high and I'm curious if this is what blew the turbo.
I really need some help... rough times and my experience with cars is significant to fix this... just need a diagnosis.
MODS
B18B1 out of an Integra (~98k miles)/(~5k on rebuild)
Built bottom end
Cp Piston's
K1 rods
Acl main and rod bearings
Arp rod bolt and head studs
Stock head
Block guard
Greddy BOV
New NGK spark plugs put in
Precision 1000CC Injectors
Running down-pipe
Turbonetics Turbo
Low-Tek coilovers
All parts/internals are brand new
A-pillar, AEM Boost/Wideband gauges and an Oil Pressure gauge
Roll cage with seatbelt harnesses
Alpine head-unit with iPod connection
Wired for subs with dynomatted trunk
15/7 Ronal Turbo wheels with brand new Yokohama tires
I will throw in a pair of drag radials
8k HIDs
Boost Specifications:
Currently tuned at 10PSI (conservative)/(~270fwhp)
Can handle 20PSI easily if wanted
Basically, my brother bought the car modified (yes we know this isn't the best decision). It's a b18b1 in a civic body. I'm posting this on here because the motor came straight from an Integra.
Issues and things we've seen:
The car started smoking under the hood pretty bad and it became a more noticeable problem the more he drove it. It seemed to be a white smoke rather than the bluish smoke I have heard of. And then we started seeing oil on the turbo inlet. (I just took the turbo apart a couple of days ago and it looks that the CHRA has failed and will need to be replaced). Next issue that started to arise was issues with the car starting. It would start just randomly on different days. We took it to a dealership this time to get it checked out and they said it was the dizzy along with the wires. So they replaced those along with the valve cover gasket. The dealership also said the car was being flooded with fuel? That made no sense how it would just have started randomly. Next, I did a compression test for the first time on a car and we were getting numbers in the 90's all across the board. (Not sure if this is bad because it's a built block? MODS LIST WILL BE AT BOTTOM). I believe I did this correctly... it's not too difficult. Also I want to mention, and I don't even know if this is an issue, but the oil pressure gauge on the a-pillar was reading 90 psi starting and then it would drop to around 30. It seemed way too high and I'm curious if this is what blew the turbo.
I really need some help... rough times and my experience with cars is significant to fix this... just need a diagnosis.
MODS
B18B1 out of an Integra (~98k miles)/(~5k on rebuild)
Built bottom end
Cp Piston's
K1 rods
Acl main and rod bearings
Arp rod bolt and head studs
Stock head
Block guard
Greddy BOV
New NGK spark plugs put in
Precision 1000CC Injectors
Running down-pipe
Turbonetics Turbo
Low-Tek coilovers
All parts/internals are brand new
A-pillar, AEM Boost/Wideband gauges and an Oil Pressure gauge
Roll cage with seatbelt harnesses
Alpine head-unit with iPod connection
Wired for subs with dynomatted trunk
15/7 Ronal Turbo wheels with brand new Yokohama tires
I will throw in a pair of drag radials
8k HIDs
Boost Specifications:
Currently tuned at 10PSI (conservative)/(~270fwhp)
Can handle 20PSI easily if wanted
Sounds like there could be some serious issues. Compression testing at 90psi leaves you about 100psi short.. and combined with excess fuel could be the cylinders have been washed down and messed up your rings. Of course, hard driving with a turbo can get you there eventually.
I don't know if the oil pressure is an issue for the turbo - but I do know that shutting it off without proper cool-down can cook oil in the bearings and cause early failure. If you have someone who knows what that looks like examine your turbo you may learn more. Also, the manufacturer of the turbo may tell you the acceptable range for oil pressure. Many can be found on the web.
Seems like the car's been rode hard... Good luck
I don't know if the oil pressure is an issue for the turbo - but I do know that shutting it off without proper cool-down can cook oil in the bearings and cause early failure. If you have someone who knows what that looks like examine your turbo you may learn more. Also, the manufacturer of the turbo may tell you the acceptable range for oil pressure. Many can be found on the web.
Seems like the car's been rode hard... Good luck
Sounds like there could be some serious issues. Compression testing at 90psi leaves you about 100psi short.. and combined with excess fuel could be the cylinders have been washed down and messed up your rings. Of course, hard driving with a turbo can get you there eventually.
I don't know if the oil pressure is an issue for the turbo - but I do know that shutting it off without proper cool-down can cook oil in the bearings and cause early failure. If you have someone who knows what that looks like examine your turbo you may learn more. Also, the manufacturer of the turbo may tell you the acceptable range for oil pressure. Many can be found on the web.
Seems like the car's been rode hard... Good luck
I don't know if the oil pressure is an issue for the turbo - but I do know that shutting it off without proper cool-down can cook oil in the bearings and cause early failure. If you have someone who knows what that looks like examine your turbo you may learn more. Also, the manufacturer of the turbo may tell you the acceptable range for oil pressure. Many can be found on the web.
Seems like the car's been rode hard... Good luck
The turbo has garrett replacement internals and they looked pretty cooked. It's just the CHRA that's needing to be replaced and I'm going to test the oil with the oil return to see if there's a pressure issue that could have been caused.
My brother didn't run the car hard, but the person before him, well I have no idea.
I bet the oil is like straight 50 weight. which would eplain the high oil psi at start. 1000's injectors not set up correctly yes it could be flooded. drain some oil and smell it. or just change it.
def. do another comp test only after make sure you squirt some oil in each cyl. the same amount and write down those numbers. (make sure dist. is disconnected and throttle is open. Sounds like some really low compression you will just have to run 25psi plus
def. do another comp test only after make sure you squirt some oil in each cyl. the same amount and write down those numbers. (make sure dist. is disconnected and throttle is open. Sounds like some really low compression you will just have to run 25psi plus
if you use a dead batt. your numbers could be way off. make sure you have a fully charged battery and a charger on to it spinning. I bet they come way up.
Okay, did another compression test on a strong battery on a strong connection and it was reading 90 across the board. Makes no sense. I was under the impression when you did a compression test you normally saw one or two below average. Is it because this block may be built??? For all I know the block has been completely modified.
One thing I did notice we there was some oil leaking where the headgasket is placed.
Sounds like the previous owner ragged the crap out of the car which is to be expected since it was built for that main purpose.
The blown turbo indicates that, which leads to bad piston rings hence the low compression.
The headgasket might be bad as well since its leaking oil and possibly the head could be slightly warped.
Sorry to say this, but looks like you guys might need a rebuild..
The blown turbo indicates that, which leads to bad piston rings hence the low compression.
The headgasket might be bad as well since its leaking oil and possibly the head could be slightly warped.
Sorry to say this, but looks like you guys might need a rebuild..
Trending Topics
With a 9:1 CR you should be in the high 100's (170-190) and the PSI should be somewhat close across the board. Make sure when performing the compression test the ECU fuse is pulled, the engine is warm, and you are holding the throttle in the WOT position. That will give you more accurate #'s. By the sounds of it the car is on a **** tune and running pig rich hense washing down the rings.
Dont waiste your time doing any more comp test. it isnt going to get better. This is one of those cases where it would of been nice to see the numbers before you bought the engine. I dont know if i agree about the **** tune. when you only have 90psi thats not alot of squeeze for spark to go boom. at 90psi get a strong spring in WG. this motor could still make lot of power with a turbo your gonna spin the needle on boost gauge. be curious to see what will happen.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
potatobiker8
Forced Induction
10
Feb 22, 2007 08:53 PM




