rough idle after replacing heater hose on the block
Hi I need some help. The heater hose on the engine (under the distributor) ruptured. I went ahead and replaced it with a new one from Honda. Topped the radiator and resivoir with Peak 50/50 coolant. Test drove the car and all seemed ok. Let the car idle for a little bit and noticed the temp gauge go all the way up and idle is fluctuating between 750-1000 rpm. No CEL on and checked with obd2 reader. No codes but ev icon flashes. Any help. Thanks.
I didn't touch the fan at all. I removed the upper air box to get to the clamp near the firewall. I'm assuming the ev icon is referring to evap? Not sure.
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You need to remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold, start the car up, and let it idle to it's normal operating temp for 5-10 mins for all the bubbles to escape from the cooling system. Once you unhook any coolant hoses, air gets in and can cause the engine to surge and overheats.
What I do is buy a spill free funnel that comes with variety of adapters for you to install on your radiator, so coolant doesn't overflow to the ground while letting it idle to bleed the system. Good Luck!
What I do is buy a spill free funnel that comes with variety of adapters for you to install on your radiator, so coolant doesn't overflow to the ground while letting it idle to bleed the system. Good Luck!
The idle problem went away. The radiator fans are not kicking on until after the car is turned off. The one that is working is the one on the air box side. Thanks
Well, I see you've posted in or started about 5 threads about this issue.
Pull the connector from thermo a, green connector on t-stat, be sure that when the hose blew it didn't gett coolant into that connector. While you have the connector off, jump the pins, key on, do BOTH fans turn on.
And can we keep one thread about this...please.
Pull the connector from thermo a, green connector on t-stat, be sure that when the hose blew it didn't gett coolant into that connector. While you have the connector off, jump the pins, key on, do BOTH fans turn on.
And can we keep one thread about this...please.
Sorry but I'm getting really frustrated with this issue. I was hoping that by replacing this heater hose, that there wasn't going to be any more issues. Boy was I wrong. I tested with the ac and both fans work. When the car is idling, the temp reads normal. When I start to drive, the the gauge rises to the top. Tried using the ac while driving, it helps, but not much. So far, I have to say that my car is becoming a money pit and I'm ready to throw it away. Thanks.
Follow the lower rad hose. Behind (firewall) the dist. On/around that same housing you should see the bleeder as well (~12mm hex with a hole/nipple on it).
Jumping the wires (key on) will help find out if/what the issue maybe with the fans not coming on while driving...of course the air needs to be out of the system.
Jumping the wires (key on) will help find out if/what the issue maybe with the fans not coming on while driving...of course the air needs to be out of the system.
I saw a green connector, but that was near the upper radiator hose. Sorry to sound dumb, but how do I jump the plug or connector.
Follow the lower hose. I sent a PM with a link/pic's and some follow up. Let us know how it works out or what else you find.
I can take some pic's, don't have the same year but they should help if needed. Let me know.
I can take some pic's, don't have the same year but they should help if needed. Let me know.
Thank you Nus Dogg and poorman212. It turned out to be the coolant had to be bled. Fans are working again and don't have to buy fan switch. If you have any hoses to change, top off both radiator and overflow and use 12mm socket on bleeder valve. Close when coolant at radiator over flows. Watch temp gauge too. Good luck. It might not be the switch or fuses. Good luck.
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