WHY my car won't start?? NEED HELP!!
I got 1994 Integra GSR motor that won't start...here wht my buddy and i did....
we disconnect everything wire harness, hoses, and drain the oil, tranny and coolant to remove the motor out...then put on the engine stand and clean up some nasty dirty on the block and careful with the all sensor n wires behind the motor on the engine stand...then we remove the valve cover, spark plugs, wires etc..then important we did careful to remove the 2 sweet camshaft out of the cylinder head and remove the head only....
we did replace the arp head studs, head gasket, oil seals, timing belt, tensioner, water pump...so the timing belt was line up everything good with the cam gears, we did checked over and over to make sure its line up and count the teeth correctly, so far its good...then
once we put the motor in everything was hooked up hoses, wire harness, other wires like dizzy, sending unit, vtec solenoid, map sensor, tps sensor..etc
When the motor has been hooked up w the mounts then i did put everything correctly, coolant, oil and tranny fluid...and there is 2 grounds: 1 ground from chassis to tranny, 1 ground from chassis to head valve cover ...and another 1 is from starter ground to the battery, fyi the starter ground nut on the stud was loose...should be still workin??
and the battery was charged overnight...and i tried to start the car and its sound cranking constantly but the fuel did inject out the fuel filter...
WHAT MIGHT GO WRONG OR SOMETHING IS BAD????
WHY IT WONT START???
we disconnect everything wire harness, hoses, and drain the oil, tranny and coolant to remove the motor out...then put on the engine stand and clean up some nasty dirty on the block and careful with the all sensor n wires behind the motor on the engine stand...then we remove the valve cover, spark plugs, wires etc..then important we did careful to remove the 2 sweet camshaft out of the cylinder head and remove the head only....
we did replace the arp head studs, head gasket, oil seals, timing belt, tensioner, water pump...so the timing belt was line up everything good with the cam gears, we did checked over and over to make sure its line up and count the teeth correctly, so far its good...then
once we put the motor in everything was hooked up hoses, wire harness, other wires like dizzy, sending unit, vtec solenoid, map sensor, tps sensor..etc
When the motor has been hooked up w the mounts then i did put everything correctly, coolant, oil and tranny fluid...and there is 2 grounds: 1 ground from chassis to tranny, 1 ground from chassis to head valve cover ...and another 1 is from starter ground to the battery, fyi the starter ground nut on the stud was loose...should be still workin??
and the battery was charged overnight...and i tried to start the car and its sound cranking constantly but the fuel did inject out the fuel filter...
WHAT MIGHT GO WRONG OR SOMETHING IS BAD????
WHY IT WONT START???
There is no ground going to starter motor, there is a 12V+ from batt., [thicker cable] and starter lead, [thinner lead, plugged into starter solenoid, the starter is grounded through the engine/transmission housing.
So I understand, the engine turns over, [cranks, starter motor works] but engine will not fire, [start] is that correct?
If your not getting fuel, "but the fuel did inject out the fuel filter" then I would check the PGM-FI Main Relay.
A simple test is to turn the ign. switch to run, not start, and listen for the fuel pump priming, when you turn on the ign. you will hear 2 "clicks" from the PGM-FI Main Relay, they are very close together so it may sound like one "click", at the same time the fuel pump will start priming, the CEL will turn on, after a few sec. the pump will stop priming and the CEL will go out.
Try the above and let me know what you find. 94
So I understand, the engine turns over, [cranks, starter motor works] but engine will not fire, [start] is that correct?
If your not getting fuel, "but the fuel did inject out the fuel filter" then I would check the PGM-FI Main Relay.
A simple test is to turn the ign. switch to run, not start, and listen for the fuel pump priming, when you turn on the ign. you will hear 2 "clicks" from the PGM-FI Main Relay, they are very close together so it may sound like one "click", at the same time the fuel pump will start priming, the CEL will turn on, after a few sec. the pump will stop priming and the CEL will go out.
Try the above and let me know what you find. 94
Not coming out the fuel filter means the food chain is broken somewhere along this path:
(SIGNAL) Battery -> under hood fuse/relay box... 100A main fuse (#41) -> load detector -> 50A fuse 39 -> white/blk -> ignition switch in steering column -> starter cut relay (affected by clutch interlock switch, so check that if it isn't firing) -> Fuse 18 (starter signal) -> PGM-FI Main relay via Blue/Wht wire. That closes the connection for power to the fuel pump through the PGM-FI Main relay.
(POWER) Power going into the Main relay for the pump comes from a 15A fuse #24 in the SRS fuse block. That power leaves the main relay for the fuel pump via Yellow/Grn wire.
So, anything breaking the SIGNAL path will prevent the main relay from enabling power to the pump - and anything breaking the POWER path will prevent 12V from reaching the pump even if the relay turns on.
Then last would be the pump itself, and it's ground to chassis where it mounts (inside the tank).
Unless you think the filter plugged.. ; ' )
So, check the fuses and trace the power. If I recall correctly, that power passes through the engine wiring harness and through the firewall at the driver's side - so make sure you've reconnected everything completely/correctly?
Good luck
(SIGNAL) Battery -> under hood fuse/relay box... 100A main fuse (#41) -> load detector -> 50A fuse 39 -> white/blk -> ignition switch in steering column -> starter cut relay (affected by clutch interlock switch, so check that if it isn't firing) -> Fuse 18 (starter signal) -> PGM-FI Main relay via Blue/Wht wire. That closes the connection for power to the fuel pump through the PGM-FI Main relay.
(POWER) Power going into the Main relay for the pump comes from a 15A fuse #24 in the SRS fuse block. That power leaves the main relay for the fuel pump via Yellow/Grn wire.
So, anything breaking the SIGNAL path will prevent the main relay from enabling power to the pump - and anything breaking the POWER path will prevent 12V from reaching the pump even if the relay turns on.
Then last would be the pump itself, and it's ground to chassis where it mounts (inside the tank).
Unless you think the filter plugged.. ; ' )
So, check the fuses and trace the power. If I recall correctly, that power passes through the engine wiring harness and through the firewall at the driver's side - so make sure you've reconnected everything completely/correctly?
Good luck
Close but no banana^^^, on a GS-R fuse 24 is a 20A, and it is power for the fuel pump but also control for the injector relay, the injector relays output, [internal] is what powers the fuel pump relays coil, Fuse 18 - 7.5A blue/white start signal lead is just backup power for the fuel pump relays coil during cranking to start, the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU/ECM, [green/blue lead, neg.(-)]
But I agree, the problem is most likely at the PGM-FI Main Relay or wiring to it. 94
But I agree, the problem is most likely at the PGM-FI Main Relay or wiring to it. 94
Close but no banana^^^, on a GS-R fuse 24 is a 20A, and it is power for the fuel pump but also control for the injector relay, the injector relays output, [internal] is what powers the fuel pump relays coil, Fuse 18 - 7.5A blue/white start signal lead is just backup power for the fuel pump relays coil during cranking to start, the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU/ECM, [green/blue lead, neg.(-)]
But I agree, the problem is most likely at the PGM-FI Main Relay or wiring to it. 94
But I agree, the problem is most likely at the PGM-FI Main Relay or wiring to it. 94
you were correct about the starter motor, and
YES u r correct that the engine turns over, [cranks, starter motor works] but engine will not fire, [start] is that correct?
FYI, my buddy try to test the spark plug on the chassis to see if there's any spark power to it...and nothing got spark on spark plug, is it could be dizzy?? dizzy is aftermarket...
and i did added the kill switch which on the yellow/green stripe by the fuel pump, does it will affect the motor not to start??
The CEL went out really quickly after I tried to start the motor, and its still cranking and loud which its hard to hear how many time its clicked....
Good catch.
I'm holding the factory Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in my hands, and it lists it as 15A - but mine is a '96 GSR, which I'd forgot to mention in the earlier post. 96 being the year emissions changed to OBD2 (right?), so I wouldn't be surprised that a few odds 'n ends changed as well.
So, my banana is 2 years younger than his banana...
I'm holding the factory Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in my hands, and it lists it as 15A - but mine is a '96 GSR, which I'd forgot to mention in the earlier post. 96 being the year emissions changed to OBD2 (right?), so I wouldn't be surprised that a few odds 'n ends changed as well.
So, my banana is 2 years younger than his banana...

Close but no banana^^^, on a GS-R fuse 24 is a 20A, and it is power for the fuel pump but also control for the injector relay, the injector relays output, [internal] is what powers the fuel pump relays coil, Fuse 18 - 7.5A blue/white start signal lead is just backup power for the fuel pump relays coil during cranking to start, the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU/ECM, [green/blue lead, neg.(-)]
But I agree, the problem is most likely at the PGM-FI Main Relay or wiring to it. 94
But I agree, the problem is most likely at the PGM-FI Main Relay or wiring to it. 94
Remember, when doing this test, do not crank the engine, [do not try and start the engine] just turn ign. on and listen.
Yes a kill switch on the fuel pump power lead could be a problem, but not if you can hear the fuel pump running when you do the above test.
It does sound like you have two problems, no fuel and no spark, and yes the no spark problem is related to the distributor, one way or another.
turn ign. switch on to run then test for power, [12V+] at the distributor, [black/yellow lead] and at the injectors, [yellow/black leads]. 94
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When listening for the clicks from the PGM-FI Main Relay and the "hum" of the fuel pump as it primes, DO NOT crank the engine, turn the ign. switch to run, not all the way to start, the first 2 clicks will happen as soon as the ign. switch is turned on ant the CEL will also turn on, the 3rd click from PGM-FI Main Relay will happen within a few sec. of turning on the ign. and the CEL will go out at the same time as the 3rd click.
Remember, when doing this test, do not crank the engine, [do not try and start the engine] just turn ign. on and listen.
Yes a kill switch on the fuel pump power lead could be a problem, but not if you can hear the fuel pump running when you do the above test.
It does sound like you have two problems, no fuel and no spark, and yes the no spark problem is related to the distributor, one way or another.
turn ign. switch on to run then test for power, [12V+] at the distributor, [black/yellow lead] and at the injectors, [yellow/black leads]. 94
Remember, when doing this test, do not crank the engine, [do not try and start the engine] just turn ign. on and listen.
Yes a kill switch on the fuel pump power lead could be a problem, but not if you can hear the fuel pump running when you do the above test.
It does sound like you have two problems, no fuel and no spark, and yes the no spark problem is related to the distributor, one way or another.
turn ign. switch on to run then test for power, [12V+] at the distributor, [black/yellow lead] and at the injectors, [yellow/black leads]. 94
and the all fuses r in great condition....
when i cranked few times, its sound like something stuck n wont start it up...
wht else might go wrong?
never mind about that part because i just checked to see if something is missing but again my buddy and i took 1 spark plug wire out from fire order #1 n put on chassis body to see any spark...
when i cranked it again for short time and theres no spark on the spark plug while its on chassis body....
then theres no more cranking when i tried to turn the ignition to start....
wht is the problem do u think i would have??
bad igintion coil or bad starter or bad dizzy?
Are you saying you cranked the engine, [starter working] to see if you have spark, but there was no spark, then you tried to crank the engine again and it would not crank, [starter not working] is that correct? 94
Yes, that is correct and it wont crank no more
but PGM-FI main relay and fuel injectors are working fine
Try a bypass jump, unplug the starter lead from starter motor, [thinner of the two leads at the starter motor] use a jumper lead from batt. pos.(+) or the batt. lead on starter motor, [thicker lead] and touch it to the terminal on the starter motor you unplugged the starter lead from, BE CAREFULL, make sure car is not in gear, engine will crank even if car is in gear, clutch not stepped on or ign. switch not on. 94
Try a bypass jump, unplug the starter lead from starter motor, [thinner of the two leads at the starter motor] use a jumper lead from batt. pos.(+) or the batt. lead on starter motor, [thicker lead] and touch it to the terminal on the starter motor you unplugged the starter lead from, BE CAREFULL, make sure car is not in gear, engine will crank even if car is in gear, clutch not stepped on or ign. switch not on. 94
dnt wry because i took my starter out from tranny and went to autozone and they did tested it then they said its passed but its sound weak so i think i need a new starter right??
update:
i just got new starter, icm, and ignition coil and already installed
then its finally start running but i was wonder how the coolant will work into the system??
the temperature is rising to close half but the fan is not spin yet and the lower radiator is seem cool while the upper radiator is really hot??
i just got new starter, icm, and ignition coil and already installed
then its finally start running but i was wonder how the coolant will work into the system??
the temperature is rising to close half but the fan is not spin yet and the lower radiator is seem cool while the upper radiator is really hot??
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