Hey guys need a little advice before I button this one up. Short story I cracked the bell housing on my b16 trans, so I got a hold of a nice little hydro ls trans to put all my internals in. I ordered all new carbon synchros new synchro springs sleeves the whole deal.

This is the first tranny Ive ever done so bare with me. I grabbed the ls 5th (35)(25) tooth count and placed all the components on the main and counter shaft according to the manual. Now every thing is together but before I put the cases on I want someone to tell me if my mainshaft looks ok:



I cant remember how it looked when I took it apart but it looks like the bearing is sticking up a little too far past the actual shaft. BUT I am sure that everything underneath it was installed in the proper direction/sequence.

Any one with a pic of how theirs looks would be nice ar any advice thanks

 

I also had another question. In the b16 case when I originally took it apart there were no shims on the lsd, how do I know if I need to shim my lsd or not when swapping it over to the ls case?

 

The mainshaft looks okay, it is normal for the bearing to sit up a little. Make sure to clock the stopper plate to the 12:00 position before closing the case. The differential preload should be checked and shimmed. You can follow the service manual and use a feeler guage to check for the shim size or install only the differential with the one shim and and a few bolts to see how it feels. You should be able to spin the diff freely but it should not walk back and forth in the cases.

 

Thank you so much. BTW I am one happy customer from all your products!

also I was peeking around at my old case and actually I found two shims together side by side (#3) Opposed to only one shim in the ls case.



Do you by chance have a link to where I can find how to shim the lsd. I'm currently using Mitchell on Demand and It doesn't say how to measure it.
Also anything else I should look out for while putting my b16 gear set in an LS casing? Im using all the shifter components from the LS as thats what I was told to do. thanks again

 

The OEM Helms Honda/Acura service manual is best for prelaod instructions. Give me a call and I will talk you through it.

 

sounds great ill send you a pm tommorow

 

Smal updizzle I bolted the two halves together with the diff in. I used the one shim the ls had in it. With that I could tightly fit a .027" shim between the case and the bearing. any one know off hand what the limit is? The bearings im using are roller type. not the taper ones.

 

Ball Bearings with both cases bolted together with shims 0-0.004 inches or 0-0.010 mm

Basically with a ball bearing you want to take up all the clearance without putting pressure on the bearings.

 

Ok so I will take the two shims that came out of the original b16 case and re-check the clearances and If they fall under .004" I'm all set? Also how to I check the mainshaft? im using the two washers from the ls where the bearing is.


EDIT: k so I took the shims out of the b16 case and popped them into the LS case re-checked the clearances it checks out at barely .002". So Im all good there. Last thing Im trying to figure out is the shim for the mainshaft. should I just leave the on thats in there from the LS?

 

The same rule applies to the mainshaft - you want to shim it to take up all of the slack but not have pressure on the bearing. You can check the mainshaft end play with the assembled shaft and shims installed in the transmission (countershaft is not installed during this procedure) using a mainshaft holder and a dial indicator. Standard: 0.11-0.18mm or 0.004-0.007 in.

If you do not have the tools to do this you can just install only the assembled M/S and shims and see how it feels. It should turn freely but have no in and out movement. There is a spring washer on this shaft the will absorb some of the end play.

 

OK I got everything done but I am so frustrated right now if anyone could help me I would be so happy.

I managed to get everything lined up perfect and slipped the halves together, but one BIG problem. With the two cases fully bolted together the snap ring on the counter shaft does not go down far enough to seat. It looks like theres space between the top of the bearing and bottom of the case. I'm completely stumped right now and cant imagine what I did wrong.

 

stick a flat screwdriver and put it under a corner of the nut and pry up, or flip the transmission over and drop it from about an inch up onto the bench or floor.

 

ill try but the two cases are completely seated so I wouldn't expect the counter shaft to move


EDIT! wow man PROPS to you! I pried up the nut up the slightest bit and it popped into place!

 

Also BIG thanks to david at synchro tech. Super stand up guy, helped me out with all my questions on the phone. Ill send out good word to every one about synchro tech.