I have a bad valve on my car, so me and a buddy are going to swap the bad head for a good one. I already bought a head gasket and a intake manifold gasket. He says we don't need the kit, but my uncle said I should get one, unless I want leaks. Anybody have advice for me? Do I need to replace the head bolts too? It's just a daily driver. I'm not going to be racing it around or anything. Were going to replace the timing belt and water pump while were in there.

So...

1. Do I need the kit, or is it a waste of money?
2. Headbolts, replace or re-use?
3. Any tips or tricks, I should know? (first time)

Thanks!!!!

 

If you already have a bought a headgasket I would say you should be fine. All else fells when you get the head of and you see some other gaskets that do not look that good or need replaced then just buy them seperately.

Your headbolts are fine. Just make sure you torque them down to spec.

As for tips...take your time, read your manual, and double check everything. GL!

 

1. for an old car, better be safe than sorry.. wear and tear parts should be changed since you're at it.

2. should be fine. these things rarely break.

3. what the guy above said..

 

mine as well do the water pump and timing belt...if u re use the head bolts torque a few lbbs over...agree with everyone else take your time

 

Thanks everyone. Can't wait to get the wagovan on asphalt again! I love burning a tank of gas a day and not spending more than 20 bucks! I couldn't believe that even with a low cylinder I was still getting 37 mpg! This is the last time I buy a car without doing a compression check though! Haha, good times

 

no problem let us know how it goes

 

hope everything goes well for you..

 

Ok, well finally got the head swap done, and I've got a problem. The car won't start. It just turns over. (much better with the new head by the way), but it won't start. I think it's getting fuel, and spark. But it didn't seem to have good spark until I put it up to the ground. I'm also getting code 15: ignition output signal, and code 16: fuel injectors. If anyone can help I'll gladly take it lol. So close yet so far, ran out of daylight and time. Thanks!!!

 

recheck ALL your grounds and 15 has to do with your dizzy bro 16 idk y u would get that check your grounds clear your codes and see what happppenns

 

not sure how to help, but from what i know, an EF is damn sensitive to any sort of grounding. one unconnected ground would screw something up. tell me how it goes.

 

Ok, I will check them tomorrow. Thanks. Is it possible to put the dizzy in wrong? We thought that the notches were different sizes, but they looked the same. or would that even matter?

 

dizzy only goes in one way idk if you fuct it up but reground your **** and clear all codes by pulling negative cable and ecu fuse....then try it and lmk

 

haha, that's what I thought. will do

 

 

Umm, make sure you check the timing belt tensioner bearing, if it does not spin smooth, replace it. You don't need to replace the head, bring the head to an actual engine rebuilder in your area, and have them replace the bad valves and clean it and re-deck the head. Then you know the head is 100%.

 

If all the grounds are good and the dist. plugs are in the right holes, check your timing belt again. Its hard to get it right the first time.

Also, when setting the tensioner, contrary to what people say on the web, you dont turn the engine around 3-4 times, you just turn it back until it reaches its most tense point, just before it gives... which is 3-4 teeth.

Once you have it all tightened and tense, then you can turn the motor around with the bolt a few times to make sure it doesnt go off a tooth.

 

Umm? We already replaced the head. I got one for 65 bucks, and it's in excellent condition. If you know someone that would rebuild a head for 65 bucks then your amazing, and we should be friends lol.

Quote: If all the grounds are good and the dist. plugs are in the right holes, check your timing belt again. Its hard to get it right the first time.

Also, when setting the tensioner, contrary to what people say on the web, you dont turn the engine around 3-4 times, you just turn it back until it reaches its most tense point, just before it gives... which is 3-4 teeth.

Once you have it all tightened and tense, then you can turn the motor around with the bolt a few times to make sure it doesnt go off a tooth.

We followed the chiltons and did exactly that. We turned it counter-clockwise 1/4 turn which is about 3-4 teeth, and it varies from engine to engine on how far your suppose to turn it. Gona check the grounds today, and hope that's all it is. Car ran fine before the swap (besides the burnt or stuck valve)

 

Alright, I need help!!! Car is grounded, and still won't start! Ignition control module? We tested the coil, we have spark, we have fuel, and the timing is correct. WTF? Doesn't even miss fire, just won't start. We have double, triple, and quadruple checked connections. I even silicone greased every sensor connection, and spark plug.

 

I had the same thing happen when i replaced my head gasket.
It turned out to be the AICV. You wouldnt think it would cause all the problems, but it did for me.

Just take it off, be careful with the rubber seals, clean the **** out of it. Reassemble and start.

Check this link out bro, this is what i had to do.
http://91civicwagon.blogspot.com/2009/12/problem.html

EDIT. its around the back side of the intake mani, behind the throttle body. (pass side)

 

We actually got it running, and it turned out to be the timing. We wern't puting on the tensioner spring before doing the counter-clockwise 1/4 turn to put tension on the belt. So that was enough for it to not start. Now though, apparently we cracked the radiator by not removing the air intake "snorkel" that bolts to the radiator lol. Two cracks right where the thing bolts up. Can't believe all honda radiators are plastic on top. So some j.b. weld, and a timing light, and I'm back on the asphalt haha. Good times in a Honda Thanks for your help and info though!

By the way, nice wagon!!!!!