While my car was running and i was over the motor bay, i pulled 2 ignition wires off the spark plugs to kill the motor (i wanted to check oil level but didnt want to go back inside the car to shut the car off).

i go back inside the car and it doesnt start. I changed the coil, ICM, cap, rotor, after all of that it still didnt work and i changed the entire distributor and STILL no spark. checked all fuses, theyre all good.

good thing i no ppl that work at the stores i bought all this stuff from so i can return it hahaha

i also used a test light and checked the positive screw on the ignition coil to the ground on the battery and the test light lit up when the key is turned.

then i tested the negative screw to the positive battery and the test light lights up wen the key is OFF, but as soon as the key gets turned the light turns off. i read that the light should flash while the car cranks.

I dunno wat else it could be, i think the only thing thats left is the ecu.

help?

 

What an odd way to turn the engine off. I'd start first by checking ALL the fuses (engine bay and under dash).

 

my laziness go tthe best of me all fuses r good

 

no ideas?

 

cmon not even a mod?

i just checked the resistance between the 2 outer pins of the crank fluctuation sensor(not the 1 thats in the distributor) and got 2.07 kiloohms so thats within spec

i checked the resitances between the 2 and 6 prongs, 3 and 7 prongs, and 4 and 8 prongs on the connector that plugs into the distributor, got about 360ish ohms which is in spec too.

is there a way to test the ecu? i opened it up and it looked clean on both sides, no burns or anything.

im running out of ideas here

HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP

 

when u try to start it wht does it do,does it even turn over,does it clip and doin tht is bad in more than a few ways

 

First I would check your wires for cracks or damage. Next, I would check the main relay. It controls spark and fuel. It should be located under driver sidedash. It has like ten wires going to it. Turn the key on engine off and u should hear two clicks. First click is fuel pump turning on for priming and then it will shut off. Then see if it starts

 

Wrong!!!
The PGM-FI Main Relay "controls" fuel pump and fuel injectors, it has nothing to do with spark, there a 3 "clicks" from the PGM-FI Main Relay, [although the first two may sound like one as they are close together]...

Fist click is the fuel injector relay turning on.
Second click is the fuel pump turning on.
Third click is the fuel pump relay turning off, after fuel system is primed.

To OP, have you checked for power to the distributor assembly, black/yellow lead should be hot, [12V+] when ign. key is in run and start position.

Make sure it has power in both run and start. 94

 

i solved the problem, it turned out to be in fact the ignition coil but i forgot to put a fuse back in after checking them, and that lead me on another path.

main relay "does" control spark, indirectly. it sends power to the ecu, which sends a signal to the ICM, which controls what the ignition coil is doing. if u pull the main relay out, you will not have spark.

 

The fuel injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay supplies the ECU/ECM with a 12V "signal" to two inputs, [IGP1 and IGP2] it tells the ECU/ECM that the fuel injector relay is on and power is supplied to the fuel pump relay so ECU/ECM can supply the ground for the fuel pump relay, you can have spark without the PGM-FI Main Relay working properly. 94